wheels and axles...

[nopantsdan]

I am interested in building some wheels/axles for my side box smoker.  It is quite heavy, I would assume over 500lbs.  It is 1/4' steel all the way around, and takes 3 -4 guys to move it around (still not easy).  Currently it just rests on the ground on 1/4" angle iron.. I'll get some pics if it helps ya'll come up with something.

I want to run an axle through the angle iron, attaching wheels on the outside of the frame.  First thought was a steel rod, except I have no welder to attach the steel rod and secure it.  Other option is a threaded rod, using nuts to secure it in place.  Problem is finding a spacer to fit over the threaded rod that then fits the wheels I would like.

I am opposed to swivel wheels only because the size I want would lift the smoker more than 8" which is unacceptable.

Any ideas for a quick fix?

 

[tservice]

For a spacer you can use pipe. For the wheels, I would look for a old tiller, the kind that has steel hubs and solid rubber.

 

[nopantsdan]

holy cow, quick response!  love these forums already!

these were the wheels i was looking at - sound similar to what you were suggesting...

http://www.castersandmore.com/detai...-Wheel-6-x-3-Mold-on-Rubber-wheel-21-568.aspx
 

the spacer is a great idea, i just want to make sure I understand what you are suggesting.

the easiest option for me is to use a threaded rod.  the wheels I want come with bearings that are 1" ID, the threaded rod I want to use is 5/8" OD.  would you recommend a pipe as a 'bushing' to cover the threads?

 

[tservice]

There is too much difference between the ID. IMHO Look around for a bolt that will fit tighter. What you show looks like it would work.

 

[okiedave]

What about cutting the rod to length, running it through the frame, putting the wheels on, and drilling holes through the rod for cotter keys to keep the wheels from coming off? I fixed an old grill that way after the press-on wheel retainers disappeared, and it's been better-than-new for at least seven or eight years now.

 

[nopantsdan]

Thought of that, but I don't have access to a drill press - and can't imagine trying to drill through a steel rod like that.

I recently thought of 'shaft collars'.

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/DA...cm_sp=IO-_-IDP-_-RR_VTV70300505&cm_vc=IDPRRZ1

This option I could by a solid steel rod to match the ID wheel/bearing combo.  A couple of washers and a handful of these collars and I think that might work.

 

[tservice]

You can drill through a steel rod with a hand drill. You just grind a flat spot on the rod, so your drill bit will not walk.

Those collars would work also.

 

[okiedave]

I did my grill with a hand-held Dewalt, and I didn't own a grinder at the time.

Definitely grind the flat if you're able.  :-)

 

[bhawkins]

The way I did mine was to use a grade 8 bolt long enough to go through the hubs and angle iron. I put the wheel on the bolt so that it was on the smooth shoulder right under the head. I then ran a nut up and put enough pressure on it to keep the wheel from wobbling any. I then ran the threads through the angle iron and used a lock washer and nut on the other side. Mine only wieghs about 100# or so, so I am not sure how well this will work at that weight. I used a hand held drill to drill the angle with.

 

[bhawkins]

BTW my wheels already had bearings in them.

 

[nopantsdan]

You can drill through a steel rod with a hand drill. You just grind a flat spot on the rod, so your drill bit will not walk.

Those collars would work also.

Sounds good, I'll price out the collars and see what that comes out to - if too much I will try and drill.

I did my grill with a hand-held Dewalt, and I didn't own a grinder at the time.

Definitely grind the flat if you're able.  :-)

Alright, that's two for drilling the axle with hand held...You guys must be on to something!  I'll look into it further, thought for sure it was drill press only type of job.

The way I did mine was to use a grade 8 bolt long enough to go through the hubs and angle iron. I put the wheel on the bolt so that it was on the smooth shoulder right under the head. I then ran a nut up and put enough pressure on it to keep the wheel from wobbling any. I then ran the threads through the angle iron and used a lock washer and nut on the other side. Mine only wieghs about 100# or so, so I am not sure how well this will work at that weight. I used a hand held drill to drill the angle with.

First thought was to use bolts through the base of the smoker and attach wheels that way.  I think there would be too much weight though...but I have no idea ... barely passed physics in college.

 

[bhawkins]

I completely understand. I have a friend that is good at such things, so I will ask him. Need to call him anyway, gives me another excuse. If I remember right the bolts on mine are either 1/2" or 5/8" not sure which. If you go with 1" like you mentioned...... I will ask.

 

[nopantsdan]

here is a picture if it helps explain.  originally looking at axle through the angle iron at the bottom, though i put the axle through the legs instead.  the legs are not angle iron, but steel square tubing.

20120826_194648.jpeg

• nopantsdan
• Mar 28, 2013

 

[bhawkins]

The square tube will give better support for the bolt idea. However because the square is on am angle the tires would be harder to mount that way. A piece of dowel welded to the bottom of the angle that runs between the legs would be best.

 

[bhawkins]

Standard grade all thread is rather soft. It might give problems if it is that heavy, However if you can put a hole into the ends of the tubing that runs from leg to leg(i first thought it was angle, was looking at it on my phone) then you could place a piece of round through that and use a large washer on each side of the wheel. You could then drill a hole into the round to insert a cotter key to hold it all together. I believe that would distribute the weight across the axle best. If the wheels are steel hubs with bearings then the round will fit tight enough. I don't know if you will be able to get the round any longer than 3 feet unless you go to a fab/welding/supply shop. 

 

[smokeamotive]

I would look at McMasters.com they have all the casters, shaft stock, shaft collars and anything else you can think of to do this. I would definately stay away from the all thread idea. They would bend before you got two feet. Shaft stock would be your best bet! Knowing someone with a portable welder would be a good thing too.

 

[nopantsdan]

I would look at McMasters.com they have all the casters, shaft stock, shaft collars and anything else you can think of to do this. I would definately stay away from the all thread idea. They would bend before you got two feet. Shaft stock would be your best bet! Knowing someone with a portable welder would be a good thing too.

good website, good find.  amazing after all the googling i did trying to find a shop like this - never once saw it.  no all thread, got it!

Standard grade all thread is rather soft. It might give problems if it is that heavy, However if you can put a hole into the ends of the tubing that runs from leg to leg(i first thought it was angle, was looking at it on my phone) then you could place a piece of round through that and use a large washer on each side of the wheel. You could then drill a hole into the round to insert a cotter key to hold it all together. I believe that would distribute the weight across the axle best. If the wheels are steel hubs with bearings then the round will fit tight enough. I don't know if you will be able to get the round any longer than 3 feet unless you go to a fab/welding/s

the square tubing is slightly angled, and it was my first thought that the axle through this square tube would provide best support.