Three Some

[morning wood]

I have located roughly 12’-0” of 20”Ø pipe.  I was going to make a couple 6’-0 smokers and put them on a trailer but have decided to make (3) 4’-0 patio type smokers instead. 

Based on the calculator each smoker will be:

Cook Chamber – 19”Ø x 36” (10201.86 cubic in)

Firebox – 19”Ø x 12” (3400.62 cubic in)

Chimney – 4”Ø x 14”

Intake Р(1) 4ӯ

FB to CC opening – 27.22 square in

The reason I’m using 19”Ø is because the pipe is 1/2” wall.

If I end up with a bit more than 12’-0 of pipe I will split the additional material equally between the three fireboxes.

I thought this would be a good way to compare styles.  I am thinking about doing a conventional offset, a reverse flow and an inline Jambo style clone (but with a round FB).  Than when I can finally get to my trailer build I will have a good idea of what I like.

Any suggestions or comments would be appreciated.
https://statich.smokingmeatforums.com/4/40/405f16a6_smoker-Model.pdf

 

[themule69]

Wood

I have to ask. why do you want to make 3 of the same smoker?

Are any of them going to be a RF?

Happy smoken.

David

 

[daveomak]

Wood, morning......  Do it.... sounds very interesting...  I think you will end up liking the RF and the Jambo....   Just a guess.....  Soooo.... I'm in....   

 ....        Dave

 

[morning wood]

I'm waiting to see when I get my hands on the pipe before I can start. 

Mule,

I ultimately want to make a trailer smoker to take to comps and the occasional festival.  When I first heard about the pipe I was told that it was 24" diameter and 1/4 wall, perfect for what I want.  When I found out it was 20" diameter, 1/2 wall I changed my plans to use the pipe as more or less a practice run.  I will be able to check out three styles and choose which I prefer and pattern my big one off of them.  Make mistakes now so that when it comes time to spend the big money I will have a better chance of getting it right.

Dave,

After reading alot about the three different styles I think you are right.  I am hoping the jambo stye works as advertised as this will be cheaper  to make than the RF.

What are the thoughts on FB door placement?  I am planning to put (1) intake in as the calc says but also add a higher intake to help push the heat into the CC.  Should I put the intakes in the end of the FB along with the door or do you think I should cut a door into the top of the FB similar as the CC? 

 

[daveomak]

Put the door on the end of the FB... Make it a FULL size door....   Pie vent in the lower half of the door for the fire, and pie vent in the upper half of the door for moving the heat to the cook chamber....     I'm a believer in the way Ribwizzard does stuff...  Not only does he talk a good line, he builds his stories, cooks on them, and shows the products.....    Ain't no BS coming from RW......  

 .....

Dave

 

[morning wood]

I just saw how he did his door on the mini #22 and like the idea of a flip over door.  What are your thoughts on the Pits and Spits style intake?  If they work I think it would be easier to dial in the adjustments for repeatability. 

 

[morning wood]

It has been a long time since I started this post but I have finally been able to move on it.

As an update, I was only able to get 11'-0 of the pipe so I have decided to make (2) 48" smokers instead of the "three some".

this is the in-line (jambo clone) design

firebox2Model1.jpg

• morning wood
• Dec 9, 2013

this is the reverse flow design

firebox2Model2.jpg

• morning wood
• Dec 9, 2013

cutting the 20" diameter-1/2" wall pipe

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• morning wood
• Dec 9, 2013

I laid the doors out at 1" past 12 and right on 3

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• morning wood
• Dec 9, 2013

Here is my first days work.  I had the plates on the pallet laser cut to the specs above.

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• morning wood
• Dec 9, 2013

My hinge idea.  Not sure if it will be strong enough as the door will weigh +/-75lbs

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• morning wood
• Dec 9, 2013

Speaking of the door hinge, does anyone have a design using springs instead of counter weight?  I have it in my head to use an adjustable spring similar to that of a garage door but if anyone has a better idea I am up for suggestions.

The progress on this build has been and will be slow as I am only allowed to work on it on Saturdays and as long as the shop is open.  The shop I am working in doesn't schedule Saturdays until usually the Thursday before so it is difficult to make plans but I just want to have them done by spring competitions.

 

[morning wood]

While waiting on the pipe and all the smoker parts to become available I decided to make a trailer to haul these things around.  I figure each one will weigh in the 600 lbs plus range.

The frame is made of tube, 2 1/2 x 2 1/2 x 3/16

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• morning wood
• Dec 9, 2013

the tongue is made of tube, 2x2x1/4 and is pinned using four hitch pins and is removable.

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• morning wood
• Dec 9, 2013

I have a stainless steel plate that will go on top of the mesh box for food prep.

 

[foamheart]

Don't ya just love it when ya get a plan commin together?

Looking good.

 

[daveomak]

Wood, morning....   I would move the hinge pivot a little farther to the right....  looking at your picture.....  so the door seal will clear when opening/closing....

Dave

 

[millerk0486]

This looks like it is going to be a great build. I'll be following this thread. Good luck!

 

[morning wood]

Foamheart, it was 3 degrees in the shop the morning I got started and took those pictures.  I wish I would have got going a few months ago to avoid that but it does feel good to finally get this project off paper.

Dave, thank you.  I figure the hinge point will be trial and error until I get it right.  I am a bit concerned about the hinge cantilevering the way it does with the amount of weight that is going to be on it.  Only one way to find out right?  You were very helpful early on with the firebox door do you have any insight into a springed door?

Miller, I hope your patient as this will take some time.  With the cold weather setting in and since the shop I'm working in isn't heated, they start to work less hours as to avoid damaging the equipment.

 

[daveomak]

Springs on a door..... No ideas.... a properly fitted and weighted counter weight works mighty fine... I'm kind of a fan of using what works that is simple.... Air over oil hydraulics would be nice.... small tire inflator to operate it... BUT... too much to go wrong.. Counter weight on a cable would work... and hope the cable didn't break and cut your arm off....

 

[morning wood]

Thanks Dave.  I am also a fan of the keep it simple plan and more than likely will use counter weights (no cables as broke arms have a way of slowing the cooking process).  I just like the idea, and even the industrial look, of an adjustable spring.

 

[millerk0486]

 
Miller, I hope your patient as this will take some time.  With the cold weather setting in and since the shop I'm working in isn't heated, they start to work less hours as to avoid damaging the equipment.

You can't rush perfection! Good Luck!

 

[morning wood]

I was able to get into the shop today.  Here is my progress:

The doors sprung about 3/8":

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• morning wood
• Dec 19, 2013

I didn't get them perfect but I used the "dozer" as best as I could:

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• morning wood
• Dec 19, 2013

Parts and pieces for my intakes (will have the same on chimneys too):

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• morning wood
• Dec 19, 2013

Assembled intakes:

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• morning wood
• Dec 19, 2013

Intakes welded into Fire Box doors:

DSCN3484.JPG

• morning wood
• Dec 19, 2013

Fire Box for RF smoker:

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• morning wood
• Dec 19, 2013

Fire Box for "Jambo Clone" smoker:

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• morning wood
• Dec 19, 2013

Seal weld of underside of the Fire Box to Cook Chamber:

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• morning wood
• Dec 19, 2013

I stacked a couple of passes on top of the seal weld for strength:

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• morning wood
• Dec 19, 2013

The Jambo Clone supported by one chain to find center of gravity:

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• morning wood
• Dec 19, 2013

I got the reverse flow plate built and set in:

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• morning wood
• Dec 19, 2013

That's as far as I have gotten.  The big items still left to do: both chimneys, finish the RF plate, weld end plates on RF smoker, attach RF Fire Box, hinge both cooker and fire box doors on each and build stands for each.

I should have gotten more done but once the Jambo Clone started to actually look like a smoker I had to stand back and enjoy it for awhile.

 

[daveomak]

It looks as if the welded hinges are supporting the door.... Check to see if something shrunk where the hinges are welded.... Happens all the time.....

Dave

 

[morning wood]

Dave,

I haven’t welded the hinges on yet but thanks for the heads up.  I wasn’t even thinking about the hinges causing problems.

The door sprung when I cut it loose.  I tried to heat it to bring it back in but with it being 1/2 wall and 3 degrees outside I was having a hard time with it.  So I decided to weld on the door flanges and use the hydraulics.  The flanges made it more difficult to bend but I needed the lip they created to hold the door to the back dies.

 

[morning wood]

So I got a couple hours in today.  Didn't get much done but thought I would add a few pics.

My first boo-boo. I would like to blame it on me only getting to work on this a few hours a week and rushing but this was a complete oversight on my part.  

I cut the door too close to the chimney.  My options, as I saw it, was to trim the door flange back to clear but if I need to add a gasket to the door down the road that option would have left me with about a 1/2" of flange to play with.

DSCN3684.JPG

• morning wood
• Dec 27, 2013

So the option I chose was to cut 1" off the other side of the door and weld that back on to the chimney side.  I beveled the joint so that there would still be some weld there after grinding.  this shifted my door off center but I see no problem with that.

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• morning wood
• Dec 27, 2013

Now as long as you don't tell anyone, nobody will ever know I screwed up!

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• morning wood
• Dec 27, 2013

and now a picture of PROGRESS!! I got the RF plate welded in,  You can't see it in the photo but there is a 3/4" pipe nipple going through the bottom of the CC at the other end.

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• morning wood
• Dec 27, 2013

I got both end plates on and was getting ready to put the FB on as they kicked me out for the day.

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• morning wood
• Dec 27, 2013

that's it for this week.  I am trying to work my way in at night this coming week but as of now I am not scheduled to get back at it until next weekend.

 

[morning wood]

I can't imagine anyone looking at this post for tips with all these other great builds and builders on here but on the off chance someone does I want to point out a welding tip that could easily be overlooked.

If you plan to weld on your end plates and grind them smooth in the end you really should put a heavy bevel all the way around the plate prior to welding. 

This serves a few purposes

1) you won't grind all of the weld off and have the plate fall on your toes.

2) the bevel will help you see the joint while welding and keep you on track.

and

3) If welded properly and you keep the top edge of the weld puddle at or slightly above the plate you won't have as much grinding to do to finish.

DSCN3698.JPG

• morning wood
• Dec 27, 2013