My MES40 gen1 temps were allways a good 20 degrees low, oven could not make 275. I was tired of staying tethered to my smoker. I was tired of only having one meat probe. I decided to make a new controller, to replace the old controller completely. It is working and usable right now. I have smoked in excess of 200 lbs of food with it!
Features:
Full PID control with Autotune built in!! Holds within one or two degrees of setpoint.
Full wireless control from anywhwere through my Android device.
8 probe channels, more precise than Heatermeter, thermistor channels are fully buffered.
No modifications to the oven. Remove old controller, replace with this. Easy to switch back to stock.
No separate power supply.
Exports charts and graphs to email.
Uses only about $20 in parts.
Does not require an SSR modification to achieve full PID Control. Just like in the original design, the power is regulated by relay on/off time. My code uses a special anti relay hammering algorithm I developed that insures the relay is not short cycled while still achieving near perfect temp control.
Not real expensive, but a local Rasberry Pi server is recommended somewhere in the home. The Raspi does not have anything to do with controlling the oven. It has no physical connection to the oven. It is used as a wireless bridge from the internet to the new controller. An internet connected always on PC could also be used, but a Pi is cheaper and lower power.
I am using the excellent Thermoworks Pro-Series probes, SKU: #TX-1003X-AP for oven temp and SKU: #TX-1001X-OP for meats. Got them directly from Thermoworks, about $15 each.
In progress right now:
Use two of the 8 channels to buffer and read the built in MES oven and meat probes.
Select any channel as the oven control channel.
Get notification by text or email when a probe reaches set point. (No screenshot yet)
ToDo:
Create some kind of enclosure.
Probably won't generate much smoke when using the chip box. I use an Amazen. I might add some code to allow more temperature swings, (MES mode lol) which translates to more "on" time for the element.
Currently the project exists as a one off bread board. If there seems to be interest, I can lay it out on a pcb. Maybe sell some boards or a kit. I have the MES40 Gen1. From what I have seen, it should be very easy to port the design to another model.
I am trying to monitor the built in MES probes with two of the 8 available channels. I need the Stienharts for those. I have a curve for the meat probe that works ok. That one doesn't work for the oven. If I could remove the oven probe, I could characterize it or replace it. Doesn't seem to be a way to get behind it. It looks like maybe under one of the serial number plates in the back might expose it?
Kurt,
I am not sure I understand maybe I confused things in my explanation. I clarify:
There are two boards in each smoker, the power board, located on the bottom and the control board located on the top. My project replaces completely the top control board. The lower board is not affected in any way. The lower board is the ovens +5 volt power supply and the element control relay. It has some wiring that connects it the top control board. The relay on the power board connects to the control board up top by a blue wire. It also sends up +5 volts by the red wire, and ground on the white one. My control board then can control the relay (by blue wire) to provide heat when it needs to (The PID inside my projects CPU calculates how long to put it on based on temps). There is also a yellow wire for the oven light control coming from down there, so I can control the oven light as well :)
So for my MES-Gen1, I remove the two screws that hold the LED control board on top. Disconnect the 5 pin white plug from it, then connect the plug remaining on the oven to my board. That's it! That's all! Take a look at the photo in my first post, That blue colored board on top of my grill is the ONLY mod. If you look carefully you can see it plugged into the factory wiring harness. You don't cut or add any wires. You can put the old one back any time.
I only mentioned the lower board before to explain how to hot wire the oven to be on all the time for some people who are using PIDs from like Amazon or Ebay. It had nothing to do with my project at all.
Tall:
Thanks. Your build inspired me to try this.
As for the case, I don't know what to do. Currently I flip a rectangular plastic container on top of the blue board, like a tent. :)
I don't want the probe jacks to get wet if it rains. They need to be under some kind of a "roof" in the enclosure I think.
I was also thinking that it would be nice to solder those jacks right to PCB, maybe on the edge, then abut the PCB to case somehow so they can poke through.
I am wide open for any Ideas you have!
I need electronically smart guys oppinions...
My MES40 gen1 temps were allways a good 20 degrees low, oven could not make 275. I was tired of staying tethered to my smoker. I was tired of only having one meat probe. I decided to make a new controller, to replace the old controller completely. It is working and usable right now. I have smoked in excess of 200 lbs of food with it!
Features:
Full PID control with Autotune built in!! Holds within one or two degrees of setpoint.
Full wireless control from anywhwere through my Android device.
8 probe channels, more precise than Heatermeter, thermistor channels are fully buffered.
No modifications to the oven. Remove old controller, replace with this. Easy to switch back to stock.
No separate power supply.
Exports charts and graphs to email.
Uses only about $20 in parts.
Does not require an SSR modification to achieve full PID Control. Just like in the original design, the power is regulated by relay on/off time. My code uses a special anti relay hammering algorithm I developed that insures the relay is not short cycled while still achieving near perfect temp control.
Not real expensive, but a local Rasberry Pi server is recommended somewhere in the home. The Raspi does not have anything to do with controlling the oven. It has no physical connection to the oven. It is used as a wireless bridge from the internet to the new controller. An internet connected always on PC could also be used, but a Pi is cheaper and lower power.
I am using the excellent Thermoworks Pro-Series probes, SKU: #TX-1003X-AP for oven temp and SKU: #TX-1001X-OP for meats. Got them directly from Thermoworks, about $15 each.
In progress right now:
Use two of the 8 channels to buffer and read the built in MES oven and meat probes.
Select any channel as the oven control channel.
Get notification by text or email when a probe reaches set point. (No screenshot yet)
ToDo:
Create some kind of enclosure.
Probably won't generate much smoke when using the chip box. I use an Amazen. I might add some code to allow more temperature swings, (MES mode lol) which translates to more "on" time for the element.
Currently the project exists as a one off bread board. If there seems to be interest, I can lay it out on a pcb. Maybe sell some boards or a kit. I have the MES40 Gen1. From what I have seen, it should be very easy to port the design to another model.
I am trying to monitor the built in MES probes with two of the 8 available channels. I need the Stienharts for those. I have a curve for the meat probe that works ok. That one doesn't work for the oven. If I could remove the oven probe, I could characterize it or replace it. Doesn't seem to be a way to get behind it. It looks like maybe under one of the serial number plates in the back might expose it?
I don't know. I can use a multi meter to figure stuff out but not code or build PCBs. In the description of the controller and sensor the sensor may have a different range than -50~210. The display may be limited to -50~210 so even if the pit boss sensor is compatible the controller may not go higher than 210.I need electronically smart guys oppinions...
I got this idea from ya'll so here goes. I bought an Ink Bird View attachment 448778ITC-1000F to control the heat in my electric Pt Boss smoker. Then I got online to get ideas for parts and came up with a fully functioning thermo-regulator that looks pretty cool. Problem is I didn't review the details enough to know that the Temperture Set Value -50~210 °F and of course the avg temp in the smoker runs higher than that. My question is can I just switch the temperature sensor out with the one in the smoker to change the Temp Set Value higher?
I second this. If you could post a schematic and the code at least that would be awesome.tiros I registered just to say I would buy this in a heartbeat as a kit or complete unit. You could even offer an upgraded model with an LCD/OLED display and a couple buttons so it could be used without a phone and/or wifi. Seems like a lot of people are buying more expensive PID controllers that require more modding. If this were available, it would be a no-brainer purchase for any MES in the know (and an alternative repair option when stock controllers die).
If you've decided for sure not to pursue offering a product, it sure would be nice to see this on GitHub or elsewhere so we can make our own! :)
It looks like the original poster has not been around in a while. Last post was end of January.Agreed. Schematic and code would be great!
That's an absolute shame.It looks like the original poster has not been around in a while. Last post was end of January.
I need electronically smart guys oppinions...
I got this idea from ya'll so here goes. I bought an Ink Bird View attachment 448778ITC-1000F to control the heat in my electric Pt Boss smoker. Then I got online to get ideas for parts and came up with a fully functioning thermo-regulator that looks pretty cool. Problem is I didn't review the details enough to know that the Temperture Set Value -50~210 °F and of course the avg temp in the smoker runs higher than that. My question is can I just switch the temperature sensor out with the one in the smoker to change the Temp Set Value higher?
The relay on the power board connects to the control board up top by a blue wire. It also sends up +5 volts by the red wire, and ground on the white one. My control board then can control the relay (by blue wire) to provide heat when it needs to (The PID inside my projects CPU calculates how long to put it on based on temps). There is also a yellow wire for the oven light control coming from down there, so I can control the oven light as well :)
I'm assuming the relay and voltage regulator or what ever your using at the lower PCB is attached as one piece being the PCB. According to MB the lower PCB in the Gen 1 40 is not serviceable so when it fails the smoker is a goner so they riveted the access plate on. It's like MB built the smoker around the Gen 1 PCB. The Gen 2 and 2.5 I believe have all end user accessible plates to the PCB's that are replaceable so the plates have screws. So when the Gen 1 PCB fails you may be able to hack that board whereby the Gen 2 or 2.5 owners can just get a new PCB from MB. That's why I was wondering if your controller is best used on Gen 2 or 2.5. Us novices that can solder and terminate wires but can't hack circuit boards when they fail would be stuck with your fantastic top controller on the Gen 1 when the PCB fails. So I was wondering for the long run with the Gen 1 do TallBM's PCB bypass with a plug and play PID and do your top controller plug and play on the Gen 2 and 2.5. I hope this helps. TallBM may chime in if I'm way off. He has crawled around inside a Gen 1 and 2 as well.
-Kurt
Ahh! now I understand the concern.
I was not aware the lower pcb was not serviceable. I just checked mine, and there are rivets not screws :(
However I do have a drill :) The question is this: Can that lower PCB be removed at all?
If so, it can be repaired. It is a very simple circuit. Another option might be to use the board used to repair the other style. Another option, duplicate that board.
Tall:
In this photo:
http://www.smokingmeatforums.com/t/63863/masterbuilt-not-working-properly/160#post_1676242
There seems to be two lower boards. The yellow has screws, the white does not. What are these from?
I'm sure that yellow board can replace the white one. If not directly, with some small modification,
My control board needs only 3 things from any host to operate, +5, Gnd, and a control line for the element. The temperature sensor is supplied by a probe. So yes the board could drive a relay box, plugged in to a rewired oven. It could drive a kitchen oven. It could drive a toaster oven. It could drive a sous vide heating element. It drive run any kind of heater if there is a way to control the power element.
I built this for Gen1 only because that's what I have. The project hardware would be basically the same for any heating device I want to control. Some small tweaks to the code would allow it to work on really any kind of heater. I suspect MB uses the same config for all their units and I would likely be able to find the 3 connection points I need for any model they make without any change to my hardware. These 3 points are easy to find. I could probably find them by looking at a photo of the PCB solder side, if anyone cares to post a pic.