Sonny gets serious, PID here.

  • Some of the links on this forum allow SMF, at no cost to you, to earn a small commission when you click through and make a purchase. Let me know if you have any questions about this.
SMF is reader-supported. When you buy through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission.

SonnyE

Master of the Pit
Original poster
OTBS Member
Dec 13, 2017
4,368
1,150
Saugus, California
OK, so I'm still a Do It Myselfer.
So my Inkbird ITC-308 got it's sensor (probe wire) burnt through my own stupidity. Since it is hardwired into the unit, and molded in, I considered it a dead horse. R.I.P. (Though I might play with splicing different thermocouples to it.)
So time to upgrade and rectify past mistakes. Time for PID controller. So I shopped around.
I decided to get an Inkbird ITC-100VH because it has all the parts and I can build my own enclosure. (Total outlay ~$50)
So yesterday I took my supervisor (in my Avatar), and we went and got the needed enclosure and an outlet for it. Then I built my new PID controller for my MES 30.
I set it for a 20° C (~68°) overnight run, and monitored it with my TP-08 ThermoPro WiFi thermometer. So far, so very good! It Averaged 73°F overnight, so at low temperatures I'd use to cold smoke, it runs a few degrees high. I can work with that.
Now it is doing a 90° C soaking (200° F) test run. And looking even closer in holding the line.
So the PID can run beyond both ends of the OEM MES control on Bypass Mode. It is currently holding 202-204 ° F.
Next I want to take it to the highest design perimeter for my MES 30 275° F.
With the supplied K Thermocouple, my PID has a range of 0°C to 400°C (32°F to 752°F)

This is good. I can change Thermocouples if I want to. (See no reason to) And Fine tune the perimeters if I want to.
This gives the range I need below Masterbuilt's design limits (100°), for cold smoking. And far better accuracy overall.

20181211_095408.jpg
(hard to catch with my phone.)
 
Too bad the wire on the sensor burned on the ITC-308. It's nice to bring inside the PID between smokes out of the elements/humidity. Setting it ten degrees warmer than outside temp for a draft in the smoker during cooler months to cold smoke is nice. I just finished smoking a bottom round roast to 150 IT and put it in the SV at 155 for 24 hours per Smokinal's pastrami recipe but using this cut. Maybe one day I'll get another contoller so I can SV and smoke at the same time.
 
  • Like
Reactions: SonnyE
Wish I had your brain...I can't wrap my head around electricity.And I've been painting my entire life so I've been around all the other trades for close to 30yrs and I just don't mess with it for safety's sake.

You and tallbm should get together and start building custom electric smokers!
 
  • Like
Reactions: SonnyE
Too bad the wire on the sensor burned on the ITC-308. It's nice to bring inside the PID between smokes out of the elements/humidity. Setting it ten degrees warmer than outside temp for a draft in the smoker during cooler months to cold smoke is nice. I just finished smoking a bottom round roast to 150 IT and put it in the SV at 155 for 24 hours per Smokinal's pastrami recipe but using this cut. Maybe one day I'll get another contoller so I can SV and smoke at the same time.

Thanks Kurt!
I was using the ITC-308 doing pre-smoke test runs for cold smoking Bacon.
I stupidly forgot to remove the ITC-308's probe before doing a 275° sterilizing run.
Yep, fried it. I still think I'll play with it to see if I can put a different Thermocouple on it.

I merely set it to 70'ish degrees, load my AMNPS with the approximate hours of fuel, and go to bed. After ruining my 308, I had to resort to the MES set at 100°, and pulled my bacon at 4 hours and 6 hours. The heat shut off at the 4 hour mark. Bacon slabs were 90° IT. They cooled slowly overnight in the smoker.
Great bacon for a first timer.
 
So much better... Isn't it ?? you say it has a soak feature ?? does it have ramp feature as well ??... Are you using a separate SSR or have one built in to the PID ... ??
 
  • Like
Reactions: SonnyE
Wish I had your brain...I can't wrap my head around electricity.And I've been painting my entire life so I've been around all the other trades for close to 30yrs and I just don't mess with it for safety's sake.

You and tallbm should get together and start building custom electric smokers!


LOL---Same here!!
Built Kitchens for 30 years, installed some of them, but never touched the Electric!!


Sounds Great Sonny!!

Bear
 
  • Like
Reactions: SonnyE
So much better... Isn't it ?? you say it has a soak feature ?? does it have ramp feature as well ??... Are you using a separate SSR or have one built in to the PID ... ??

Well, to me, soaking is when it is working at a set temperature and maintaining +/- the set.
Not sure of a ramping feature. But it has a separate 40 amp SSR. Much bigger than needed. ;)
It does use shorter pulses, or longer pulses as it is achieving set temp, or trying to raise it. But I'm trying to not dabble in the sub menus.
I did, didn't like what I screwed up, and put it back to default. Works better without my fiddling with it.
Just set it and watch the magic.
It did throttle itself at 214°. Wouldn't rise above it. So probably a limit I need to address in the settings. ???
 
Last edited:
LOL---Same here!!
Built Kitchens for 30 years, installed some of them, but never touched the Electric!!


Sounds Great Sonny!!

Bear

Thanks Bear!
I spent more than 42 years guiding electrons around.
Fun, as long as it doesn't bite ya.
 
Now you got me tempted. I have been hoping to add an Auber, but at 1/2-1/3 the price Yo got my attention. Gonna have to look into that. Heck at that price maybe I'll jump sooner and not wait for the original controls to crap out.

Just remember, if you go to splice the thermalcouple, you must match the wire colors. That is the actual wire, not the plastic sleeving. Silver to silver, copper to copper. It's the magic that makes it work.
 
  • Like
Reactions: SonnyE
Now you got me tempted. I have been hoping to add an Auber, but at 1/2-1/3 the price Yo got my attention. Gonna have to look into that. Heck at that price maybe I'll jump sooner and not wait for the original controls to crap out.

Just remember, if you go to splice the thermalcouple, you must match the wire colors. That is the actual wire, not the plastic sleeving. Silver to silver, copper to copper. It's the magic that makes it work.

Rodger.
 
Well dang it. Inkbird does not appear to have a ramping PID the works at the upper end of the masterbuilt spectrum. Back to my Auber dreams.

Lots of folks here like the Auber.
My interest is controlled temperature cold smoking.
My Inkbird PID did hit a ceiling today at 214°. So I want to figure out why it wouldn't continue to climb. I'm thinking a limit.
My MES 30 is sitting out there at at it's max of 278ish, bobbing along. So I know it is in the PID or SSR.

I screwed up and left my bypass switch in bypass, so I tested the over-temp snap disc. Yepper, got 350° out of the old gal, balls to the wall. I'm sitting here wondering why the 350 reading, then it hit me like a Home Run. :eek:
Doh! :emoji_laughing:
 
What am I missing ? You got 350 from a 300 deg snap disk ? How'd that happen ?

Yeah, I was surprised as well.
Chinese snap disc. And from what I've seen they use something around 318-325°.
You don't even want the fight I've had with Chinese electronics. Not in my MES, but in my telescope mount.
So fragile I have to use an AGM 12 volt battery for it. It's Chinese diodes and components are made with cotton candy.
Crap components. Absolute crap.
So a snap disc that is marginal until it's feet are held to the fire does not surprise me.
LOL! At least it wasn't smoking on the outside...yet. :rolleyes:
 
SmokingMeatForums.com is reader supported and as an Amazon Associate, we may earn commissions from qualifying purchases.

Latest posts

Hot Threads

Clicky