PID Controller Help for Masterbuilt Analog Smoker.

[paxonator]

I've been using my Napoleon bbq as a Smoker for a year now and happen to win a 30" masterbuilt analog Smoker. I want to build a pid controller but all the guides I found use an ssr and DC output. They don't list the wattage but max would be 1500watt element.

From what I know I need a pid controller and either a contactor or ac relay. What should I be using I conjunction with with pid controller? And can anyone link me to an appropriate relay/contact. Or even a online tutorial I could follow.

I know you can buy an auber one but that's to much and I prefer diy. I'm also in Canada so shipping adds to much.

All help is greatly appreciated.

*EDIT*

I think I figured things out. I should be able to follow this guide for my project, correct?

http://www.ice8420.com/blog/2012/01/diy-pid-control-for-bbq-sous-vide-mash-tun-whatever/

 

[tallbm]

I've been using my Napoleon bbq as a Smoker for a year now and happen to win a 30" masterbuilt analog Smoker. I want to build a pid controller but all the guides I found use an ssr and DC output. They don't list the wattage but max would be 1500watt element.

From what I know I need a pid controller and either a contactor or ac relay. What should I be using I conjunction with with pid controller? And can anyone link me to an appropriate relay/contact. Or even a online tutorial I could follow.

I know you can buy an auber one but that's to much and I prefer diy. I'm also in Canada so shipping adds to much.

All help is greatly appreciated.

*EDIT*

I think I figured things out. I should be able to follow this guide for my project, correct?

http://www.ice8420.com/blog/2012/01/diy-pid-control-for-bbq-sous-vide-mash-tun-whatever/

Hi there and welcome!
That parts list from the link you provided should do the job. You won't need the blower fan.

I'd like to also impart a little info from my PID buying and building experiences, so please bare with me :)

Option 1:
Buying only the necessary parts in the list from that site, you will spend roughly $100 USD.
I'm not sure what shipping would be on the various parts but be sure to factor that in.
Also, if you have all the tools, connectors, extra wire, heat shrink wrap, etc. etc. then you are good, but factor in the cost and shipping of all that stuff as well.

Option 2:
An Auber plug and play PID that technically will handle up to 1800 watts with the multi-purpose probe runs $150 USD before shipping.
https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=8&products_id=110


Comparison:
I can tell you that $100 + any extra tools/equipment/supplies + shipping on the various items in the list will definitely be more than $150 USD.

I don't know what the Auber shipping would cost you but I imagine that the item plus shipping will run you about the same as all of the parts/tools/supplies and shipping for building your own PID.

I think Auber was very smart here and they figured that out with their pricing model lol.

In all I found it to be very competitive in price when comparing the Auber plug and play PID's to the cost of everything needed to build one.

Now even if the cost of building is a little less or the same there is still the fact that you must spend the time to do it all, get it all right, test it all, replace busted or defective pieces (cheap Chinese parts switches, etc.), and the biggest pain in the butt of being able to EFFECTIVELY cut into a project box for mounting the various controller pieces that pop in/out of the box. Try cutting out good square shapes of a box using a dremel wheel because saws are too large!

In the end for COST, buying the Auber Plug and Play seems to win out in my experience and in my book basically every time.

NOW, with all of that said there is no substitute for making a custom controller box BUT take your estimated cost and basically add and extra $50-$100 to it because of all the parts, tools, shipping, etc. Also be ready to spend your time getting it right.

So now it just comes down to what you want.
Simple, quick, and ultimately less expensive - Auber plug and play
Custom, money not that big of an issue, and you like doing the project/work - Build your own

I hope this info helps so that you can learn from my experiences rather than learn through act of doing/suffering yourself :)

 

[Nutshell]

I have the Auber in my Masterbuilt. It’s too notch.

 

[dr k]

I have the Auber WS-1510ELPM 15 amp and like that it has no restrictions on the duration of giving 100% output for 10 amp service or less and has a heat sink, but at 12 amp service you have 90 minutes of constant on before needing to cycle or you have to increase the P value or reduce output from 100% to 80 or so for heat maintenance. So at least the Mes 40's 1,200 watt element is 10 amp. Just wondering if the 25 Amp SSR in a home built PID needs a heat sink for the Mes 30 or 40.

 

[tallbm]

Here are the stats on the ITC-308:

ITC-308 is an easy-to-use, safe and reliable dual relay output temperature controller. Designed with compressor delay protection for refrigeration, high and low temperature alarm, and sensor fault alarm, which makes the ITC-308 more safe and reliable. Functions such as temperature calibration, separately set differential for refrigeration and heating, enable more accurate temperature control.

With large output power 1,000W(110V) /2,000W(220V), it’s suitable for most applications. It can be used as Over-temperature protection and automatic temperature control system for various electric appliances such as equipment for home-brew, aquarium, pet breeding, incubation, BBQ, seedling heat mats, oven temperature control, terrestrial heat control, constant temperature cycle of heating pump, culture fermentation, accelerating germination, electric radiator, electric oven, etc.

So if you are over 1000 watts (running 110v) you'd need to make or buy a outlet with a relay. Still would come in at about 1/2 the cost as Auber.

Hi Holly, you are right but there two major consideration to take into account with the Inkbird ITC-308:

1. It doesn't allow control over 210F
2. MES40's and analog MES smokers run 1200 watt and 1500 watt elements respectively

The max temp of 210F may be a deal breaker as many of us smoke 225F+. I know a number of us do 275F on briskets and pork butts and such so the max temp and time to cook at 210F is something to factor in.

Also the Inkbird ITC-308 is not an option for MES40's or analog MES smokers.

I think it is a great option for the MES30 and Bradley smoker guys who don't want exceed 210F or for those who want to make a dedicated sausage/bacon/etc. smoker out of an old MES30 or Bradley they can get their hands on :)

I'm not trying to rain on the parade or your contribution I just want to ensure we address as much of the info as we can so people get a part that may not fit the bill or on the flip side they buy the perfect part for their application :)

 

[tallbm]

I have the Auber WS-1510ELPM 15 amp and like that it has no restrictions on the duration of giving 100% output for 10 amp service or less and has a heat sink, but at 12 amp service you have 90 minutes of constant on before needing to cycle or you have to increase the P value or reduce output from 100% to 80 or so for heat maintenance. So at least the Mes 40's 1,200 watt element is 10 amp. Just wondering if the 25 Amp SSR in a home built PID needs a heat sink for the Mes 30 or 40.

The 25 Amp SSR's that I've seen need a heat sink. I don't recall if the 15amp ones do or do not but when I built my PID controller unit with the HeaterMeter the 25Amp SSR was cheaper than some smaller ones AND I didn't want to repeat the issue of my electrics crapping out on me like my 20amp rocker switches melting down on me (cheap crap). So I was happy to use a 25amp SSR though I wouldn't use anywhere near 25 amps :)

I eventually bought a 100amp marine breaker switch to replace the 20 amp rocker switches that were melting down on me. Overkill but I was determined to not have some crappy switch ruin everything form me and I went through a 3 pack of those rocker switches lol

 

[tallbm]

Good catch! I forgot about the temperature limitations of the ITC-308.

Exceeding element wattage can be worked around if needed but the temp thing is something is too limiting of a factor for the ITC-308 to be considered.

Yeah for my applications with a smoker the 210F is a dealbreaker. NOW, in the 1000watt range if I wanted to Sous Vide or control a crockpot or make a dedicated sausage/bacon/jerky smoker I would jump on the ITC-308!

 

[Nutshell]

This is the one I have. 1800 Watts, max temp of 325 and a simple easy to use app. Great WiFi controller.
https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=14_28&products_id=702