Overwintering 2017/2018

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dr k

Master of the Pit
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Mar 22, 2013
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Peoria, IL
Just stumbled over this forum. I've been a pepperhead for decades and have a second winter potted Ghost Pepper plant dormant waiting for Spring with his buddy Lemon Drop in her first overwintering. I need to get a warming germination mat for seeds I harvested two years ago to jump start the 2018 growing season (Chocalate Habanero, Trinidad Scorpion, and Burning Bush.) I need Carolina Reaper seeds.
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3rd final ghost pepper flush/ harvest 11.3.17

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Lotsa fruit from this ghost pepper which has doubled in size since this 2017 spring pic.

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Lemon Drop fall 2017 2x heat of a Jalapeno with citrus under tone.

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I give away a lot of peppers and dehydrate extra before spoiling. I give away these pods to and what's left is ground to powder. I use a 1/4 tsp to sprinkle over cheeses and pizza. This was taken 12.13.17 with the dormant ghost pepper in the back ground with over half it's leaves still on. I'll cut it back to new growth as leaves drop.
 
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I see a piece of popcorn.
 
You mean the tongue that fell of or a drooling tongue. I guess you didn't they are ghost peppers and so is the tongue you see. :rolleyes:

Like your choice of peppers and over wintering.

Warren
 
I edited it so it now says ghost pepper.
 
I picked up some Carolina Reaper pods last Oct.,was planning on a hot sauce, it developed to much mold on top.I saved some seeds to try growing them this year.
Richie
 
I picked up some Carolina Reaper pods last Oct.,was planning on a hot sauce, it developed to much mold on top.I saved some seeds to try growing them this year.
Richie

I had three Reaper seedlings in May 2016 under what I thought was my grow light until I saw my grow light in its box in my garage. I found that a cfl spot light was shining on the 1" seedlings by mistake that parished from shock shortly after using the plant light. I hope the Chocolate Habanero seeds are viable.
 
Great looking peppers!!!! I have not been fortunate enough to try anything like that. I like the idea of dehydrating and making powders with them
 
This will be my first time trying to dry seeds and plant
Richie
I cut the peppers in half starting at middle then going to the tip since they have the most seeds at the stem. Then tweezer out the seeds and dry at room temp on a paper plate two weeks and then put in an envelope. I don't dehydrate fruits that I want seeds from because it maybe on the border of too hot and render them unviable. Since fifth grade I've germinated seeds in a wet paper towel in a zip lock bag in the dark under the bed. Checking on them. And opening the bag every few days to let in fresh air is good but if they dry out I've never had them germinate once rewetted. But in the winter its too cool in my house so I need to buy a heating mat. Not many seeds in this variety (Chef Jeff) ghost pepper. This pic is mostly ribs vs seeds. And at $1.50/plant I don't see starting from seed plus I bought it once and being a perennial has been my best fruiting plant investment.
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I picked up some Carolina Reaper pods last Oct.,was planning on a hot sauce, it developed to much mold on top.I saved some seeds to try growing them this year.
Richie

If you have a constant warm place test some or all in a damp ppr towel ziplock and open and close everyother day to refresh the air. It's a bit early but I'm getting things together because once they germinate I want to be ready for the next step. The hot peppers I put in equal parts sand, potting mix or peat moss and potting soil. As it compresses over time I put coffee grounds on top for nitrogen and lower ph for acidity if needed.
 
i didn't even know this forum had a garden section! this forum is basically my whole life bunched up into one website:D... i also have two ghost pepper plants going onto their 3rd season. last season was actually the first season i let them produce some peppers and holy cow they did! i ended up getting over 200 peppers from just two plants. I saved some of the seeds and starting some seedlings in the window and I'm pleased to find out that over 85% of the seeds were viable. Ill probably give away some of the seedlings and seeds to friends and family since i have no reason to have any more plants, if anyone needs any...
 

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My Chocolate Habanero seeds haven't sprouted yet. It's been eight days at 80* on a heat mat. Hopefully they are viable.
 
My Chocolate Habanero seeds haven't sprouted yet. It's been eight days at 80* on a heat mat. Hopefully they are viable.
One thing I've learned is as soon as you see them sprouting, pull them off the mat or you'll literally bake them out of the dirt. I made this mistake last year with both my peppers/tomatoes, they all turned stringy cause they were trying to get away from the heat!
 
One thing I've learned is as soon as you see them sprouting, pull them off the mat or you'll literally bake them out of the dirt. I made this mistake last year with both my peppers/tomatoes, they all turned stringy cause they were trying to get away from the heat!
Yes. Once sprouted keep covered and no heat mat and go to plant light.
 
After 12 days the Chocolate Habs have sprouted with the damp paper towel method in a sealed pyrex dish on the heat mat. I did open the container daily and fan them for fresh air. They will be planted in small solo cups with the bottom edges cut for drainage and sit in another identical cup to catch the water and to fertilize the roots when they come through (no heat mat and uncovered.) I have a 120 watt incandescent plant light that I will start 24" high above them for heat being the winter and they need to break the surface and in a south facing window. I'll check the heat with the hand test for three minutes so it's not too hot. I just don't want to have them get leggy or stringy. Or does anyone know if they break the surface if I should not use the incandescent. Not many people use this plant bulb much. This seems to be the tricky part for me before hardening off and transplanting outside. I don't foresee getting a different lighting set up. Or having the cups on a rack an inch above the mat during the night for a little heat. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
 
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After 12 days the Chocolate Habs have sprouted with the damp paper towel method in a sealed pyrex dish on the heat mat. I did open the container daily and fan them for fresh air. They will be planted in small solo cups with the bottom edges cut for drainage and sit in another identical cup to catch the water and to fertilize the roots when they come through (no heat mat and uncovered.) I have a 200 watt incandescent plant light that I will start 24" high above them for heat being the winter and they need to break the surface and in a south facing window. I'll check the heat with the hand test for three minutes so it's not too hot. I just don't want to have them get leggy or stringy. Or does anyone know if they break the surface if I should not use the incandescent. Not many people use this plant bulb much. This seems to be the tricky part for me before hardening off and transplanting outside. I don't foresee getting a different lighting set up. Or having the cups on a rack an inch above the mat during the night for a little heat. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Definitely no mat, as soon as they germnate the mat goes away or they will get leggy. With a grow light the biggest thing is not having the light too close to burn or dry out the plants but yet they need it close enough or they will strain to get to the light and become stringy as well, research how far up the light should be from the plants. i had just regular fluorescent bulbs and i think i kept them 6 ro 8 ins off the plants but your type of light might be different.

Another thing is air circulation, you should have some type of air movement to help keep underneath the leaves dry and helps they not get any rots or diseases. Also rotate the cups every day or other day so they dont grow in one direction over another

Hope some of this helps
 
Great! Thank you. I think we've been on the same page. The roots are <1/2" and going into those cups of soil tomorrow. Being so early because I was anxious to see if these seeds were viable, I started germinating when I had time as well as getting seedling stuff together. I've got an IR thermometer and will make sure my hand is comfortable at the lamp height to keep the soil a little warmer than room temp during the day. I think the cooler nights may keep them from over growing. I have a couple of Xmas light timers.
 
Definitely no mat, as soon as they germnate the mat goes away or they will get leggy. With a grow light the biggest thing is not having the light too close to burn or dry out the plants but yet they need it close enough or they will strain to get to the light and become stringy as well, research how far up the light should be from the plants. i had just regular fluorescent bulbs and i think i kept them 6 ro 8 ins off the plants but your type of light might be different.

Another thing is air circulation, you should have some type of air movement to help keep underneath the leaves dry and helps they not get any rots or diseases. Also rotate the cups every day or other day so they dont grow in one direction over another

Hope some of this helps
Things have been going well with the Chocolate Habaneros. Plenty of ventilation, humidity from the ultra sonic humidifier with distilled water (really dry this colder winter), and 75*F soil temp with the plant light a foot above the plants in a south facing window.
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