- Jun 15, 2024
- 5
- 5
I have a masterbuilt 40-inch digital electric smoker model# MB20076718. I just replaced the heating element and connectors and it's still not heating up any ideas on what the problem maybe
Power light on , heating light on, then failed element, connectors or safety dime sized therm switch has failed most likely. Bypass safety switch with a wire nut wire to wire after cutting an access in the back panel if you do not have one with screws to it like the heating element. If you hear the relay click closed to call for heat, then usually it's a lug or thermal safety switch fail. I got a free Mes 30 on FB marketplace that needed the failed thermal safety switch bypassed for it to heat. I cut it with a dremel cut off wheel and sealed it with alum jacketing tape and did it to my Mes 40 to get the potential problem out of the circuit and use a high low alarm to alert me if my smoker is above 290 or below 145.I have a masterbuilt 40-inch digital electric smoker model# MB20076718. I just replaced the heating element and connectors and it's still not heating up any ideas on what the problem maybe
Mine is bluetooth I can control with my phone don't have actual remoteDoes that model have a remote also? My control panel went haywire but would still work with remote. I have since done the PID upgrade that fixed all my problems. Your safety rollout switch may be bad.( A disc about the size of a dime on the back wall ).
Otherwise hang tight, I'll tag a couple of our finest and they may be able to help when they have a moment.tallbm ,
dr k
I just bypassed it and it works thank you all for your helpThis possibly ???
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Masterbuilt Electric Smoker High Temperature Limiter Kit: 9907140015
Replacement high temperature limiter kit (aka. hi-temp switch or over-heating switch). A high limit switch in an electric smoker is a safety feature that prevents the smoker from overheating. It is designed to shut off the heating element when the temperature inside the smoker reaches a certain...pellet-stove-parts-4less.com
I bypassed the safety switch and it heats up and working. Just need to order the replacement switch. Thank you for your helpPower light on , heating light on, then failed element, connectors or safety dime sized therm switch has failed most likely. Bypass safety switch with a wire nut wire to wire after cutting an access in the back panel if you do not have one with screws to it like the heating element. If you hear the relay click closed to call for heat, then usually it's a lug or thermal safety switch fail. I got a free Mes 30 on FB marketplace that needed the failed thermal safety switch bypassed for it to heat. I cut it with a dremel cut off wheel and sealed it with alum jacketing tape and did it to my Mes 40 to get the potential problem out of the circuit and use a high low alarm to alert me if my smoker is above 290 or below 145.
Same model, same issue. Max temp 195f. Replaced temp probe and controller. Do you know where the "other end" of the wires to the safety switch are? I wonder if it would be easier to connect them somewhere else then cutting and then patching a hole in the back.Power light on , heating light on, then failed element, connectors or safety dime sized therm switch has failed most likely. Bypass safety switch with a wire nut wire to wire after cutting an access in the back panel if you do not have one with screws to it like the heating element. If you hear the relay click closed to call for heat, then usually it's a lug or thermal safety switch fail. I got a free Mes 30 on FB marketplace that needed the failed thermal safety switch bypassed for it to heat. I cut it with a dremel cut off wheel and sealed it with alum jacketing tape and did it to my Mes 40 to get the potential problem out of the circuit and use a high low alarm to alert me if my smoker is above 290 or below 145.
The dremel cut off wheel 4"×4"or so at the back where the safety switch is, is stillSame model, same issue. Max temp 195f. Replaced temp probe and controller. Do you know where the "other end" of the wires to the safety switch are? I wonder if it would be easier to connect them somewhere else then cutting and then patching a hole in the back.
I wonder if it would be easier to connect them somewhere else then cutting and then patching a hole in the back.
It's because the MB company makes newer smokers with an access to the switch to do this. They want us to throw away perfectly good smokers without an access to the switch. So we make one. Some people do not have rivet guns or screw rivets but have Dremel cut off wheels that make for a 10 - 20 min fix with jacketing alum tape over their original cut piece. The food is in the oven to finish. The less you peel off the backing the faster your back to smoking.I don't know why anyone cuts an access hole when it is trivial to drill out the pop rivets, do whatever you want, then pop rivet it back together. Or do what I did and screw it back together with #10x1/2 sheet metal screws so it is serviceable in the future. 3/8 length would be even better.
Yeah you have a good approach. There are a number of models of MES that don't even use rivets. The backing of the MES has a bend that fits into a lip of the MES frame. Getting that thing back in is basically impossible because the sheet metal warps and then it becomes a long nightmare or bending 1/4 inch at a time and hammering in and THEN likely having to also use a sheet metal screw so it doesn't pop out.I don't know why anyone cuts an access hole when it is trivial to drill out the pop rivets, do whatever you want, then pop rivet it back together. Or do what I did and screw it back together with #10x1/2 sheet metal screws so it is serviceable in the future. 3/8 length would be even better.