No heat

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chitchatnj

Newbie
Original poster
Jun 15, 2024
5
5
I have a masterbuilt 40-inch digital electric smoker model# MB20076718. I just replaced the heating element and connectors and it's still not heating up any ideas on what the problem maybe
 
Does that model have a remote also? My control panel went haywire but would still work with remote. I have since done the PID upgrade that fixed all my problems. Your safety rollout switch may be bad.( A disc about the size of a dime on the back wall ).
Otherwise hang tight, I'll tag a couple of our finest and they may be able to help when they have a moment. tallbm tallbm , dr k dr k
 
This possibly ???
 
I have a masterbuilt 40-inch digital electric smoker model# MB20076718. I just replaced the heating element and connectors and it's still not heating up any ideas on what the problem maybe
Power light on , heating light on, then failed element, connectors or safety dime sized therm switch has failed most likely. Bypass safety switch with a wire nut wire to wire after cutting an access in the back panel if you do not have one with screws to it like the heating element. If you hear the relay click closed to call for heat, then usually it's a lug or thermal safety switch fail. I got a free Mes 30 on FB marketplace that needed the failed thermal safety switch bypassed for it to heat. I cut it with a dremel cut off wheel and sealed it with alum jacketing tape and did it to my Mes 40 to get the potential problem out of the circuit and use a high low alarm to alert me if my smoker is above 290 or below 145.
 
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Does that model have a remote also? My control panel went haywire but would still work with remote. I have since done the PID upgrade that fixed all my problems. Your safety rollout switch may be bad.( A disc about the size of a dime on the back wall ).
Otherwise hang tight, I'll tag a couple of our finest and they may be able to help when they have a moment. tallbm tallbm , dr k dr k
Mine is bluetooth I can control with my phone don't have actual remote
 
This possibly ???
I just bypassed it and it works thank you all for your help
 
Power light on , heating light on, then failed element, connectors or safety dime sized therm switch has failed most likely. Bypass safety switch with a wire nut wire to wire after cutting an access in the back panel if you do not have one with screws to it like the heating element. If you hear the relay click closed to call for heat, then usually it's a lug or thermal safety switch fail. I got a free Mes 30 on FB marketplace that needed the failed thermal safety switch bypassed for it to heat. I cut it with a dremel cut off wheel and sealed it with alum jacketing tape and did it to my Mes 40 to get the potential problem out of the circuit and use a high low alarm to alert me if my smoker is above 290 or below 145.
I bypassed the safety switch and it heats up and working. Just need to order the replacement switch. Thank you for your help
 
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Power light on , heating light on, then failed element, connectors or safety dime sized therm switch has failed most likely. Bypass safety switch with a wire nut wire to wire after cutting an access in the back panel if you do not have one with screws to it like the heating element. If you hear the relay click closed to call for heat, then usually it's a lug or thermal safety switch fail. I got a free Mes 30 on FB marketplace that needed the failed thermal safety switch bypassed for it to heat. I cut it with a dremel cut off wheel and sealed it with alum jacketing tape and did it to my Mes 40 to get the potential problem out of the circuit and use a high low alarm to alert me if my smoker is above 290 or below 145.
Same model, same issue. Max temp 195f. Replaced temp probe and controller. Do you know where the "other end" of the wires to the safety switch are? I wonder if it would be easier to connect them somewhere else then cutting and then patching a hole in the back.
 
Same model, same issue. Max temp 195f. Replaced temp probe and controller. Do you know where the "other end" of the wires to the safety switch are? I wonder if it would be easier to connect them somewhere else then cutting and then patching a hole in the back.
The dremel cut off wheel 4"×4"or so at the back where the safety switch is, is still 20200814_112956.jpg the easiest to strip and terminate the two wires with a wire nut. As long as you stay around the smoker or have a pit probe set to a high/ low alarm like 145 and 290 to be safe. You'd have to disconnect the wire going to the safety switch at the bottom pcb board and somehow cut a path from the pcb junction box to the heating element junction box. I started cutting above the switch on the box on the back and then go down the right and left side peeling it back to miss the wires coming up from the bottom.
 
I wonder if it would be easier to connect them somewhere else then cutting and then patching a hole in the back.

I don't know why anyone cuts an access hole when it is trivial to drill out the pop rivets, do whatever you want, then pop rivet it back together. Or do what I did and screw it back together with #10x1/2 sheet metal screws so it is serviceable in the future. 3/8 length would be even better.
 
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I don't know why anyone cuts an access hole when it is trivial to drill out the pop rivets, do whatever you want, then pop rivet it back together. Or do what I did and screw it back together with #10x1/2 sheet metal screws so it is serviceable in the future. 3/8 length would be even better.
It's because the MB company makes newer smokers with an access to the switch to do this. They want us to throw away perfectly good smokers without an access to the switch. So we make one. Some people do not have rivet guns or screw rivets but have Dremel cut off wheels that make for a 10 - 20 min fix with jacketing alum tape over their original cut piece. The food is in the oven to finish. The less you peel off the backing the faster your back to smoking.
 
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I don't know why anyone cuts an access hole when it is trivial to drill out the pop rivets, do whatever you want, then pop rivet it back together. Or do what I did and screw it back together with #10x1/2 sheet metal screws so it is serviceable in the future. 3/8 length would be even better.
Yeah you have a good approach. There are a number of models of MES that don't even use rivets. The backing of the MES has a bend that fits into a lip of the MES frame. Getting that thing back in is basically impossible because the sheet metal warps and then it becomes a long nightmare or bending 1/4 inch at a time and hammering in and THEN likely having to also use a sheet metal screw so it doesn't pop out.

So this is something to avoid like the plague hahaha. Also these switches are stupid cheap and can burn up quick so if someone replaces the switch vs bypasses, chances are they will have to replace the switch again in the future and going through another nightmare back removal and putting back is torture lol.

Not being argumentative with this reply, just giving a few answers so anyone who reads can know what their best options are and why often just cutting a panel makes life easy.
A few models already have a panel to that switch, which makes those owners lucky as hell :D
 
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