what about using Rutland Dry Mix 211 Fireplace Mortar. https://share.google/ezQ9uVUddiIdNXBqq. it will seal it tight and will also act as an insulator and can be removed if neccessaryThanks.
So I started to put some of this on paper, to be a little better organised.
Working/evolving diagram below
View attachment 505061
It reflects the correct half-moon arcs as in your diagram above.
A question on that, the diameter for the total opening size remains 36.9", so I guess the height becomes 2.25" for top and 2.25" for the bottom arc. Is this correct?
I was also thinking about the FB overnight, and the loss.
I was wondering if I go all out, and do something like this instead;
View attachment 505058View attachment 505059
Basically with a large end opening, I could fuel and maintain, clean etc. I could even seal/weld the top opening shut, and completely eliminate the loss, whilst building in a large enough air intake in the process.
On the RF plate. I hadn't planned to weld it in place, as I thought the weight would provide the seal, but i'm not against that.
I has planned to add sides and ends, to make it a grease trap (like below), with a drain but if i weld in place, don't I run the risk of having grease accumulate between the CC walls and the RF plate sides?
I guess I could have the tops welded flush too, so all grease runs into the tray.
View attachment 505060
I am reading this whole thread. As I am wanting to make my highlander a reverse smoker. . What is the benefit of putting stack in the side versus back?Oh one more thought.....If you weld the lid shut and move the door to the front then the side of the CC can be used for the stack vs the back corner.....Just one more benefit to do that.
I am reading every word here. I just got my first ok joe highlander. And I want to convert it into a reverse flow and I don't like the top door I would like to make it flat and add a warmer on top.. where do you suggest to put the height of the stack ?Oh one more thought.....If you weld the lid shut and move the door to the front then the side of the CC can be used for the stack vs the back corner.....Just one more benefit to do that.
Phil
I just started a thread in same section on my longhorn mods. I am putting the Yoder door on side line picture you indicated. You can see photo of it cut out. I will be sealing top lid and insulating box as well
as far as others go 1/4” thick on RF plate. I bought an 1/8” plate made for mine and not happy with it. I also bought waterpan that are made for cookers and modified it to run width of chamber. This eliminates hot spot on FB side
what is OD of your smoke stack? They make a mod for the highland that has an 18” extension that slips over original. I had to weld new section on to mine. Yes 3” is too small and should be atleast 4” but the added length made huge difference.
I am fortunate that the Longhorn RF has stack at grate level. If I were you I would seal up stock exhaust location and move to side over FB at Grate level (can only do if move FB door to side)
before modifying FB/CC opening do all other mods and cook on it. Use water pan under grate and you may be suprised at how well it cooks. Like you I planned on dropping FB down but really not enough room. I cooked on it after doing few simple mods and was pleasantly suprised. I am now going to leave as is
you will also see in my thread I welded horizontal supports above and below FB/CC opening. This is to prevent the FB from sagging which is known issue on these. I also welded the FB to CC using 3 stringer welds roughly 3 in log on top and both sides. I can now lift cooker from FB in and apply a lot of pressure with no movement.
if you make it a side loader weld up the FB seam a few inches on each side of door and a few inches around corner for added support. I may add vertical braces on inside as well but havent decided
hope this helps
Hi newbie here can you explain that to me like a 3rd graderThe inside opening should be 4.5 I added .25 for steel thickness. For the pate width, just measure up the end of the CC 4.75 and then measure across the CC and minus the steel thickness (2x) of the CC (it should be about 15.125 - 15.25 or so). Calcs are good for the plan then need to be adjusted in Fab (this isn't a high precision tool....) For the CC opening 4.5 to 5 inches at the end will be fine. You just want a little bigger (say 30% or so) opening than the FB to CC opening.
PS...A 1" high RF Plate dam is nice.....Oh and this is just me but I wouldn't have an issue welding the plate in with the dims you have, just don't put a hard 90 in the smoke stack that will cause an issue with flow. cut an oval hole (on the radius) or add a plenum on the flat next to the FB.
Hi newbie here can you explain that to me like a 3rd grader
More room in the CC and helps with flow…I am reading this whole thread. As I am wanting to make my highlander a reverse smoker. . What is the benefit of putting stack in the side versus back?
Study my copper pot build I’d had lots of info on the warming boxI am reading every word here. I just got my first ok joe highlander. And I want to convert it into a reverse flow and I don't like the top door I would like to make it flat and add a warmer on top.. where do you suggest to put the height of the stack ?
I am curius I just looked at a lang and it exhaust is on the top of the CC .. Wouldnt we want to do the same on our highlander instead od the side??Oh one more thought.....If you weld the lid shut and move the door to the front then the side of the CC can be used for the stack vs the back corner.....Just one more benefit to do that.
Honestly its preference on the top or back…..the length and sectional area is most importantI am curius I just looked at a lang and it exhaust is on the top of the CC .. Wouldnt we want to do the same on our highlander instead od the side??
thank youHonestly its preference on the top or back…..the length and sectional area is most important