NEW! LEM DualGrind Redesign......Adapter!

[tallbm]

The grinder head will heat up if you grind 100# at a time.... Now we have 2 grinder heads and just swap them out, always keeping on in the cold 33*F refrigerator.

Good info to know, and good solution.

I think that at the rate mine runs the meat keeps it cold and no issue. That is what makes the most sense.

 

[BGKYSmoker]

I use a cool-tek gel ice pack wrap that attaches around the auger grinder head. I can do 10lbs and the head/auger tube is freezing cold.
This fits my BB #5.

 

[SmokinEdge]

I'm just curious about the heat build up in it in case mine craps out on me, or I upgrade and gift my grinder to my brother. I do NOT want to fight with a grinder and have to freeze it over and over just to use it :D

In my experience they can all build heat, but it’s specifically the auger that gets the hottest. This is usually the cause of the nylon bushing at the rear of the auger and friction. When I first bought my LEM the auger would get hot enough that meat would stick to it, that was very frustrating. Then I started wiping a thin film of Crisco shortening on the bearing surface of the auger at the rear, both the shaft and the flange both places touch the nylon bushing. The heat stopped and now my grinder head stays the same temperature as the meat going through it which is most always par frozen. 20# is about my biggest load and 5-10# is more normal.

While freezing the grinder body is fine that does not stop the auger from transferring heat (the largest source of heat) limiting the friction with lubrication seems to make the biggest difference to me.

 

[tallbm]

In my experience they can all build heat, but it’s specifically the auger that gets the hottest. This is usually the cause of the nylon bushing at the rear of the auger and friction. When I first bought my LEM the auger would get hot enough that meat would stick to it, that was very frustrating. Then I started wiping a thin film of Crisco shortening on the bearing surface of the auger at the rear, both the shaft and the flange both places touch the nylon bushing. The heat stopped and now my grinder head stays the same temperature as the meat going through it which is most always par frozen. 20# is about my biggest load and 5-10# is more normal.

While freezing the grinder body is fine that does not stop the auger from transferring heat (the largest source of heat) limiting the friction with lubrication seems to make the biggest difference to me.

Oh this makes complete sense. Good info to have in the back pocket too!

 

[indaswamp]

Good point SE! I also lubricate the nylon bushing. Use to use Criso before daveomak turned me on to this stuff:

https://www.amazon.com/Petro-Gel-Comp-Grade-Equipment-LubricantNSF/dp/B09GC7K5GL

It is thick, tacky, and a good thickness of the lube stays between the surfaces for maximum lubrication. Even hot water will not remove it, you have to physically scrub it off. 10X better for this application than Criso IMO....

I still use crisco on my stuffer o-ring though....

 

[02ebz06]

Good point SE! I also lubricate the nylon bushing. Use to use Criso before daveomak turned me on to this stuff:

https://www.amazon.com/Petro-Gel-Comp-Grade-Equipment-LubricantNSF/dp/B09GC7K5GL

It is thick, tacky, and a good thickness of the lube stays between the surfaces for maximum lubrication. Even hot water will not remove it, you have to physically scrub it off. 10X better for this application than Criso IMO....

I still use crisco on my stuffer o-ring though....

I have that stuff. Used for various things.
Originally bought it for lubing the O-rings in my beer tapper.
Now use it for the O-rings in fridge filters. Makes them easy to remove when replacing.
Various other places.
I've just been spraying the auger and bushing with the spray lube I got when I bought the grinder.
Never thought of using the grease for that. Thanks for the tip.