My old Masterbuilt smoker just died.

[Atl1530]

I think my old Masterbuilt smoker just died. It's hooked up to an Auber Instruments controller which is working correctly. It was working great, and then the temp started to drop, and the elements were not hot.

I looked on the site for replacement Masterbuilt parts, and they are not available for my old model.

Has anyone seen a conversion for new parts onto an older model?

Thanks

 

[Winterrider]

Maybe just check the wire connectors to the heating element. Notorious for corroding away. Hope that's all it is

 

[chopsaw]

Make sure you have power ( has to be said ) if yes unplug the smoker ,
Like said above , check for burnt terminals at the element first . Make sure you know the connection is good , you may have to peel back the insulation . Don't go by " looks " Could be burnt under the covering . If you have an ohm meter , while you're in the back check the element to make sure it's good . Shows resistance , not open .
If that checks out , look to the limit switch . Might have to cut the back open . Look for a burnt wire there as well .
I just had mine was tripping the GFCI . I have an Auber 1500 on mine . Got it fixed , guess it was leaking to ground somewhere .

 

[daveomak]

I thinik the 800 watt element on the MES 30 should read ~18 ohms...

 

[chopsaw]

I thinik the 800 watt element on the MES 30 should read ~18 ohms...

I was wondering what that number was . Mine was just kicking the GFCI , and has also done that in the past , then goes away . Had it apart yesterday . My element ohm reading was less than 5 . Just read that can cause the breaker to blow .

 

[Atl1530]

I just looked at the connection I changed when hooking up the Auber Instruments controller on the panel on the bottom of the smoker, they look fine. I do not have the access panel on the back where the power cord comes out of the smoker. If I remember correctly, that's where you would check for the burnt terminals at the element. Do I just cut an access panel with a Dremel tool?

Thanks

 

[chopsaw]

I just looked at the connection I changed when hooking up the Auber Instruments controller on the panel on the bottom of the smoker, they look fine. I do not have the access panel on the back where the power cord comes out of the smoker. If I remember correctly, that's where you would check for the burnt terminals at the element. Do I just cut an access panel with a Dremel tool?

Thanks

Can you post some pics ? Of the back .
This is mine , no panel like this ?

 

[Atl1530]

Yours looks like it has a panel or you made one.

Here is mine

 

[chopsaw]

Mine had the panel . This is whats behind it .
Terminals for the element .

 

[chopsaw]

You could take the whole back off , or cut a hole .

 

[chopsaw]

That metal is thin enough , it cuts easy with a pair of snips , or if you're careful a sharp utility knife works too .

 

[tallbm]

Yours looks like it has a panel or you made one.

Here is mine

Wow that must be really old!

It looks like you may be drilling out the rivets and pulling the back up/off enough to work with it.

I would suggest pulling the back up/off to work on it and then cut access panels so you never have to pull the back off again. 2 panels would work. Panel 1 would be for accessing the element.
Panel 2 would be for accessing the safety rollout limit switch. Any piece of scrap

Cut squares for access and then cover with a larger square of some thin sheet metal you can get at basically any hardware store. Hell if you can find scrap sheet somewhere you can probably get what you need for free!

Use #12 (3/4 or 1 inch long) self tapping Sheet metal screws to fasten the the back on again where the rivets were drilled out.

With the back off you can check all the connectors. I imagine you may have a bad one or four. This is a common problem.

Replace electrical connectors with Hi Temp stainless steel ones, these are en EXACT fit for the MES wiring and spade sizes:

I hope this info helps :)

 

[chopsaw]

I would also suggest removing the back , but if you want to cut a hole ,
I took a number on the back access . Make sure the element is centered in the cabinet , then use these numbers as a reference before you cut anything .
Left to right off the side 6 " to 11 "
Off the TOP of the drain hole 2" to 5 3/4 "
Make a 3 1/2 x 5 pattern out of card board or paper . Use that to lay out your cut .
I was in a industry where stating the obvious was very necessary , so if you all ready knew any of this ,,,

 

[Bearcarver]

When I replaced the connectors on one I've mine, I did the same as "tallbm" mentioned above----Drilled out all the rivets & replaced with Self-Tappers.

Bear

 

[Atl1530]

Wow that must be really old!
I told you it was old :)


I hope this info helps :)

Yes that helps a lot, Thank you

 

[Atl1530]

Ok, now what?
You can't access the junction boxes from the top — also, the insulation is foam. I would have to dig out access to the junction boxes.

Thanks for your help

 

[Bearcarver]

Ok, now what?
You can't access the junction boxes from the top — also, the insulation is foam. I would have to dig out access to the junction boxes.

Thanks for your help

What's the thing in the bottom right of center?
Is that a box with a cover on it?

Bear

 

[Atl1530]

Heres what I know

 

[chopsaw]

Right side under the light should be the limit switch . Look inside and reference where the element goes thru the back wall . No access to those boxes ? If there is no door , cut a little foam out next to one of the boxes , look for screws .
Hey , you're almost there .

 

[Atl1530]

Is this what I am looking for? It took a Dremel tool to get to it