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My MES40 died...thoughts on Masterbuilt 20075315 as a replacement?

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uncle eddie

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Masterbuilt 20075315 - on sale for $253.84 on Amazon

This looks pretty similar to my MES40 that made it 4 years before it was too far gone to save. The price is certainly good. Anyone have this one?

Here is the link:
 
I went ahead and bought it...$100 off is too good to pass up.
 
I'm a little late, but that's the one I've been telling people to stay away from since I tested one.
That is a Gen #2.

The best thing you can do is remove that stupid slanted drip plate with hanging water pan.
Then put your bottom rack in & put a 9 X 12 foil pan on it to take the place of a water pan.
Then you can put your AMNPS on the right end of that bottom rack
Then pull the chip dumper out 2 or 3" for more air flow, and back in for less air flow. (Rotate dumper 180° too).

Bear
 
Thanks Bear...I saw the slanted drip plate and wondered about it.

I have plenty of parts available from my dead MES40 so I am sure I can manufacture a good mod. I wonder if the racks from my old MES40 will fit inside this new one? I liked my old set up just fine.
 
Thanks Bear...I saw the slanted drip plate and wondered about it.

I have plenty of parts available from my dead MES40 so I am sure I can manufacture a good mod. I wonder if the racks from my old MES40 will fit inside this new one? I liked my old set up just fine.


Yes, all of my MES 40 racks (Gen #1, #2, and #2.5) are interchangeable!!

The reason I say to do what I said above is because that slanted drip plate will trap the heat under it, and then it will move to the right (Heat rising up under that plate). Then it will go around the plate on the right side, causing the right side of the smoker to be hotter than the left.
If you read what I said about the Gen #2, Four years ago in the below Link, you can see what I mean:
Masterbuilt Smokers (Bear's Thoughts & Findings)

Bear
 
I'm a little late, but that's the one I've been telling people to stay away from since I tested one.
That is a Gen #2.

The best thing you can do is remove that stupid slanted drip plate with hanging water pan.
Then put your bottom rack in & put a 9 X 12 foil pan on it to take the place of a water pan.
Then you can put your AMNPS on the right end of that bottom rack
Then pull the chip dumper out 2 or 3" for more air flow, and back in for less air flow. (Rotate dumper 180° too).

Bear

Bear

I got my new MES40 with the slanted drip plate two days ago. I seasoned it and during the seasoning process, I used the meat probe thermometer at various locations within the smoker. Last night I ran it at 225F-235F and finished smoke-seasoning it while moving the meat probe around again (each shelf - left right and center). In both the high heat (275F) seasoning and the lower temp season, although there was some variation, it was only 5 degrees or so. When I added chips to finish the seasoning process, the heat/smoke rose the fastest above the heating element (of course) to about the middle of the glass, but I did not notice the smoke "hanging right" due to the slanted drip plate. In fact, it looked to be pretty normal as compared with my old MES40.

I looked at the pictures of the drip plate and looked at my actual drip plate and I think the version you originally tested may be a bit different. The drip plate on my new MES40, while slanted, is closer to flat/level than what is shown in the pictures. It may also be a bit narrower - which would explain why the heat is more uniform than what you had when you were testing it.

Not sure what I am going to smoke on Saturday - either ribs or salmon. But testing it with meat in the smoker will be better than my quasi-scientific study. Boston Butt on Sunday maybe...

Ed
 
Hi Ed. If you decide you want to take on a fun little project I'm sure we can help you rewire the busted MES40 so it works with an Auber Plug and Play PID controller.
I'm not sure how your old MES40 died but it could be something as simple is replacing some electrical spade connectors :)

Anyhow, if you get interested let us know, those rewired things are awesome and can run forever. I gifted one I repared to my mother :)
 
Bear

I got my new MES40 with the slanted drip plate two days ago. I seasoned it and during the seasoning process, I used the meat probe thermometer at various locations within the smoker. Last night I ran it at 225F-235F and finished smoke-seasoning it while moving the meat probe around again (each shelf - left right and center). In both the high heat (275F) seasoning and the lower temp season, although there was some variation, it was only 5 degrees or so. When I added chips to finish the seasoning process, the heat/smoke rose the fastest above the heating element (of course) to about the middle of the glass, but I did not notice the smoke "hanging right" due to the slanted drip plate. In fact, it looked to be pretty normal as compared with my old MES40.

I looked at the pictures of the drip plate and looked at my actual drip plate and I think the version you originally tested may be a bit different. The drip plate on my new MES40, while slanted, is closer to flat/level than what is shown in the pictures. It may also be a bit narrower - which would explain why the heat is more uniform than what you had when you were testing it.

Not sure what I am going to smoke on Saturday - either ribs or salmon. But testing it with meat in the smoker will be better than my quasi-scientific study. Boston Butt on Sunday maybe...

Ed


Very interesting, Ed!!
Being less slanted would make the moving to the right (uphill) much less prominent.
And being more narrow, front to back would allow the heat to get around the plate easier than getting around the one that I would remove.

Thanks a lot for that Info, Ed !!

BTW: have you figured out anything "Good" that Drip Plate does?

Bear
 
BTW: have you figured out anything "Good" that Drip Plate does?
Bear

BEAR -
Did 2 racks of St. Louis style pork ribs yesterday. Top shelf and next one down. No water. The ribs were smoked/cooked evenly and they were in the smoker for a little more than 6 hours unwrapped with no noticeable hot/cold spots in the smoker or in the meat. So that is a plus.

As for the slanted drip pan...not sure what purpose it serves.

tallbm -
I have been messing with my old MES40 and got it running again. Cleaned the corrosion off the element clips and simply have to replace the clips that clipped onto the element connector. Looks like my oldest son will inherit my old smoker.
 
BEAR -
Did 2 racks of St. Louis style pork ribs yesterday. Top shelf and next one down. No water. The ribs were smoked/cooked evenly and they were in the smoker for a little more than 6 hours unwrapped with no noticeable hot/cold spots in the smoker or in the meat. So that is a plus.

As for the slanted drip pan...not sure what purpose it serves.

Thanks for the Update!! Sounds Good!

Bear
 
BEAR -
Did 2 racks of St. Louis style pork ribs yesterday. Top shelf and next one down. No water. The ribs were smoked/cooked evenly and they were in the smoker for a little more than 6 hours unwrapped with no noticeable hot/cold spots in the smoker or in the meat. So that is a plus.

As for the slanted drip pan...not sure what purpose it serves.

tallbm -
I have been messing with my old MES40 and got it running again. Cleaned the corrosion off the element clips and simply have to replace the clips that clipped onto the element connector. Looks like my oldest son will inherit my old smoker.

Awesome find! The connectors are one of the big problem children of MES. If the controller isn't failing then the connectors at the element or the safety rollout limit switch are usually the culprits. Masterbuilt doesnt seem to want to use better quality connectors.

If you plan to replace them so you can gift it to your son, please get high temp stainless steel connectors so you don't run into the problem again. These are a perfect fit and are easy to work with or crimp with normal crimp tools:

The flag shaped connectors are actually more ideal for the limited space BUT they are harder to crimp or work with. Many solder those. The ones I posted above will work for you, I know personally on about 2-3 different MES smokers I've worked on :)
 
Awesome find! The connectors are one of the big problem children of MES. If the controller isn't failing then the connectors at the element or the safety rollout limit switch are usually the culprits. Masterbuilt doesnt seem to want to use better quality connectors.

If you plan to replace them so you can gift it to your son, please get high temp stainless steel connectors so you don't run into the problem again. These are a perfect fit and are easy to work with or crimp with normal crimp tools:

The flag shaped connectors are actually more ideal for the limited space BUT they are harder to crimp or work with. Many solder those. The ones I posted above will work for you, I know personally on about 2-3 different MES smokers I've worked on :)


I used the Flag clips when mine burned out. It fit in the little box better.
I Crimped & then soldered, because DaveO recommended soldering.

Bear
 
I used the Flag clips when mine burned out. It fit in the little box better.
I Crimped & then soldered, because DaveO recommended soldering.

Bear

Yep that will do the trick for sure! I lack a soldering iron... yes everyone can laugh now :D
 
Yep that will do the trick for sure! I lack a soldering iron... yes everyone can laugh now :D


LOL---I lack one too. I did the crimp, but then I read that DaveO said it would be better to solder it too, to keep it from moving.
So I called Bear Jr to bring his soldering iron up, and he soldered it.

Bear
 
I'm a little late, but that's the one I've been telling people to stay away from since I tested one.
That is a Gen #2.

The best thing you can do is remove that stupid slanted drip plate with hanging water pan.
Then put your bottom rack in & put a 9 X 12 foil pan on it to take the place of a water pan.
Then you can put your AMNPS on the right end of that bottom rack
Then pull the chip dumper out 2 or 3" for more air flow, and back in for less air flow. (Rotate dumper 180° too).

Bear

I wish I would have seen this site before I purchased an MES 40 (2nd Gen). Can you advise how you suggest removing the angled drip plate, If anyone has photos that would great. Thank you
 
Sorry, can you clarify if you are saying remove the huge water and angled drip pan combination or the angled piece over the heating element and wood chip holder? Pretty easy to just tale out the drip/water pan. Thanks again.
 
Sorry, can you clarify if you are saying remove the huge water and angled drip pan combination or the angled piece over the heating element and wood chip holder? Pretty easy to just tale out the drip/water pan. Thanks again.


The Gen #2 is the only one that has that big POS slanted Drip plate in it:
It's above the little cover that is over the Chip holder.
It's the big slanted plate that's higher on the right than the left, and the little water pan hangs from it.
That big plate should come out easy.
Then I would put the bottom rack in & place a foil pan in the middle of that for a water pan---To catch drips.

Bear
 
The Gen #2 is the only one that has that big POS slanted Drip plate in it:
It's above the little cover that is over the Chip holder.
It's the big slanted plate that's higher on the right than the left, and the little water pan hangs from it.
That big plate should come out easy.
Then I would put the bottom rack in & place a foil pan in the middle of that for a water pan---To catch drips.

Bear

Thanks Bear. Do you suggest I remove the full length water pan if I am not using any liquid to help with heat distribution? I am cooking some ribs today and I have read people say not to use any liquid in the pan.
 
IMO---All MES water pans should be left in place, covered with foil, but no liquids should be added to them.
I have not put any liquid in my Water Pans for 8 years. Adding liquids does nothing good.

The only full length pan there is would be the stupid slanted drip pan in the Gen #2, which like I said should be best to remove & do what I said in Post #18 above.

Bear
 
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