My first 80Gal RF build... This is going to be a blast!

[alaska]

Started bending and cutting the outer skin for the FB last night. This photo is after raising the lower vents.

Plasma2.JPG

• alaska
• Nov 21, 2013

 

[daveomak]

I don't see any mistake you been talking about.....  All I see is one "fine looking smoker"......    She's a beaut....

Dave

 

[gary s]

Look good to me, on your way to some great smoking,

Gary

 

[alaska]

E.JPG

• alaska
• Nov 29, 2013

A.JPG

• alaska
• Nov 29, 2013

Don't know why my photos rotated... I only have one more side to insulate and skin then I will install the baffle inside my FB. With our latest snowfall I have been tied up plowing folks driveways. Couple more driveways and I will have broke even on this build. I got a question about the 4in ID pipe. I contacted the metal shop and was told they do not carry pipe per say. Where are you guys getting it. I was told to check with a place that dismantles tractor trailers and get one of their stacks. I don't want one of those any thoughts on my options?

 

[daveomak]

Steel tubing from a supply house.... or exhaust pipe.... all the same stuff.... Dave

 

[jweller]

pipe is measured by ID, tubing is measured by OD. In this case, I don't think it makes much difference which one you go with, so long as you do the math on height with the correct ID. But that might help you find something if you know not to to get too hung up on the words. I got mine from a local steel supplier, so I can't be much help there, but any company that does commercial HVAC or plumbing would have what you need. Don't know if they would sell it to you, but if you get desperate, It's worth a shot.

 

[radioguy]

My stack is the main tube from one of those self standing basketball hoops.  It's 3.25 ID and 1/8" or 10 gauge thickness.  Check around your local scrap yards or Craigs list.

RG 

 

[alaska]

I could not find anything on Craigslist except for a guy who dismantled his 40yr old dairy barn.... Had to pass on that. I did locate a 4ft section at a plumbing shop.

 

[alaska]

image.jpg

• alaska
• Dec 3, 2013

Any thoughts on how to get this to close better on its own? It's not catching on anything because it seals fine with a strap. I plan on using a couple toggle clamps anyhow but would like to make the gap smaller!

 

[alaska]

A friend gave me 4 buckets of these bolts awhile back so I put a few to good use! How much distance is needed between the top of the FB and the baffle plate?

image.jpg

• alaska
• Dec 3, 2013

 

[alaska]

image.jpg

• alaska
• Dec 3, 2013

Here are the tiny bolts I was talking about.

 

[daveomak]

If the picture showed the hinges etc....... it looks like the hinges are putting a strain on the door.... I would cut the hinges loose, check the door fit... reweld.... be sure there is no strain on the door..... Metal shrinks when welded.....

Put up a picture of the hinges and the welds etc.... the door seal at the top of the cut out included..... That picture does not give enough information......

Dave

 

[ribwizzard]

Looks like you used "bullet" style hinges, they can be a pain. Don't give enough clearance underneath and the smallest thing can bind them up. I recommend cutting your weld from the back of the hinge where it's mounted to the tank and add a small piece of square stock under it to give it more clearance.

 

[jweller]

I had to adjust mine after I put the hinges on as well, so the question I would ask is; did it fit well before you welded the hinges on? Because that's going to tell you if you need to bend the door or adjust the hinges. I'm not exactly certain how you adjust those barrel hinges except to cut them loose. When I welded my hinges on, I tacked them, checked the fit, welded a little bit on one side, checked the fit, welded a little bit on the other side, checked the fit, little bit more, check, more, check, etc. you get the idea. Even after that, I still had to go back and adjust them. Nobody has ever accused me of a cold weld :D

 

[alaska]

If the picture showed the hinges etc....... it looks like the hinges are putting a strain on the door.... I would cut the hinges loose, check the door fit... reweld.... be sure there is no strain on the door..... Metal shrinks when welded.....

Put up a picture of the hinges and the welds etc.... the door seal at the top of the cut out included..... That picture does not give enough information......

Dave

Will get the photos this evening. I am using the bullet hindges and I believe the shrinkage is the problem. The flange along the top of the door is way to snug.

 

[alaska]

 
I had to adjust mine after I put the hinges on as well, so the question I would ask is; did it fit well before you welded the hinges on? Because that's going to tell you if you need to bend the door or adjust the hinges. I'm not exactly certain how you adjust those barrel hinges except to cut them loose. When I welded my hinges on, I tacked them, checked the fit, welded a little bit on one side, checked the fit, welded a little bit on the other side, checked the fit, little bit more, check, more, check, etc. you get the idea. Even after that, I still had to go back and adjust them. Nobody has ever accused me of a cold weld :D

I had a good fit prior to the hinges and believe the heet caused the problem. Yes-Sir-Ree-Bob it got hot but thats how I learn. I can peel them off without any problem. Thanks for the input.

 

[alaska]

 
I had to adjust mine after I put the hinges on as well, so the question I would ask is; did it fit well before you welded the hinges on? Because that's going to tell you if you need to bend the door or adjust the hinges. I'm not exactly certain how you adjust those barrel hinges except to cut them loose. When I welded my hinges on, I tacked them, checked the fit, welded a little bit on one side, checked the fit, welded a little bit on the other side, checked the fit, little bit more, check, more, check, etc. you get the idea. Even after that, I still had to go back and adjust them. Nobody has ever accused me of a cold weld :D

It fit very well until I put the flange around it. I appreciate the info. Going to give it a whirl this weekend….Jerome

 

[jhsdigital]

Alaska, I had the same problem with my door here is how we fixed mine,

To fix the door issue my buddy up the street who is actually a structural iron worker did the following:

Since it was the bottom lip that was not sealing right, he placed a piece of 1/4" thick flat bar across the opening  (middle) of the CC then closed the lid on top of it

Then he took something called a choker (which looked like a chain come along) placed one on either end of the door, placed a 2x4 across the length of bottom of the door and tighten the chokers while heating it with a torch.

We actually over corrected it a bit so that when we released it, and it sprang back a little, it ended up being pretty darn close.

We then placed ribs on the door to keep it from reoccurring again.

Here are some pics of how it turned out

Door 2.jpg

• jhsdigital
• Oct 13, 2013

Door 1.jpg

• jhsdigital
• Oct 13, 2013

Once we put the toggle latches on it sealed up tight as a drum !

Handle 2.jpg

• jhsdigital
• Nov 18, 2013

 

[alaska]

 
Alaska, I had the same problem with my door here is how we fixed mine,

To fix the door issue my buddy up the street who is actually a structural iron worker did the following:

Since it was the bottom lip that was not sealing right, he placed a piece of 1/4" thick flat bar across the opening  (middle) of the CC then closed the lid on top of it

Then he took something called a choker (which looked like a chain come along) placed one on either end of the door, placed a 2x4 across the length of bottom of the door and tighten the chokers while heating it with a torch.

We actually over corrected it a bit so that when we released it, and it sprang back a little, it ended up being pretty darn close.

We then placed ribs on the door to keep it from reoccurring again.

Here are some pics of how it turned out

Door 2.jpg

• jhsdigital
• Oct 13, 2013

Door 1.jpg

• jhsdigital
• Oct 13, 2013

Once we put the toggle latches on it sealed up tight as a drum !

Handle 2.jpg

• jhsdigital
• Nov 18, 2013

Thanks for the information… I actually read you thread and was going to try that came technique but then some of the guns told me to focus on my hinges. Well as it turned out the hinges were the problem after all. I now think the amount of heat I put to the hinges sucked it up far too tight. When I welded the hinges on I had a strap which I thought would hold the door in place but obviously it back fired. End result, I cut the hinges from the tank side, not the door itself. As soon and I did that the door actually seated itself. 

 

[daveomak]

[/QUOTE] Alaska
Thanks for the information… I actually read you thread and was going to try that came technique but then some of the guns told me to focus on my hinges. Well as it turned out the hinges were the problem after all. I now think the amount of heat I put to the hinges sucked it up far too tight. When I welded the hinges on I had a strap which I thought would hold the door in place but obviously it back fired. End result, I cut the hinges from the tank side, not the door itself. As soon and I did that the door actually seated itself. 
[/quote]
++++++++++++++

GOOD NEWS !!!!! Glad a simple fix was found.......

Dave