MES Rewire Simple Guide - No Back Removal Needed!!!

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The wi fi would be nice . Looks like you would be paying for features that wouldn't be used .
The 1510 works great . Wish it had wifi .
You won't be sorry you add either one . When they say 1 degree it's the truth .
 
I believe i am ready to do this on my 140s, anyone buy the Auberin wifi model? It seems a bit pricy, but the app looks useful.
https://itunes.apple.com/ca/app/aubersmart/id1103630710?mt=8
https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=14_28&products_id=702

I've never used it and yep that is a pretty penny but if all indicators are that it works well AND you feel it will make you happy then pull the trigger! :)

I do use a wifi PID but it is a much more complex one than the Auber wifi PID. I can tell you that you may also need to look into a so called wifi "extender". You can get one on Amazon costing anywhere from $20-$75 that should fit the bill.

My smoker is juuuuuuuust in range of my wifi signal and most of the time I have no issues with it getting signal without using an extender. The signal strength reported from my wifi PID is around 40% and when it falls to 37% that is when I get intermittent connection issues. As long as I am 40% or higher I am golden.

Why does it matter so much?
When you set your temperature alarms/alerts your unit needs to be able to connect to your homes wifi in order for it to notify you on your phone when the alarm/alert temp limits are hit.
This is HUGE when you run into situations where an AMNPS pellet flame flare up occurs causing major heat increase AND burning up all your pellets in minutes if you don't catch it!

OR when the ol' lady decides to blow dry her hair in the other room and trips the breaker your electric smoker is on and instead of going and turning the breaker back on she just goes to another room to blow dry her hair lol :emoji_dizzy_face:

OR when any other situation occurs that causes the smoker temp to drop too low or raise too high.
Finally, it is also nice to be able to smoke a brisket or a pork butt overnight and just go to bed knowing the meat temp alarm will wake you up at like 7am-8am,etc. when you hit the temp to alert you to check the meat for tenderness/readiness :)

Anyhow I just wanted to add some advice and some of my experiences with a wifi PID so you are as educated as you can be. I hope this info helps! :)
 
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Thanks for the replies! I contacted Auberin, and they have no plans to make the 1510 in wifi. Is wifi necessary? no, but it is a cool feature. Not sure if it justifies the additional expense. I currently use the tp-20 and it meets my needs for keeping me informed. I am definitely buying one or the other
 
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Thanks for the replies! I contacted Auberin, and they have no plans to make the 1510 in wifi. Is wifi necessary? no, but it is a cool feature. Not sure if it justifies the additional expense. I currently use the tp-20 and it meets my needs for keeping me informed. I am definitely buying one or the other

Oh I didn't think to mention it but my wifi PID runs 4 probes. I also run a tp20 so I have a total of 6 probes going. A number of times the TP20 has saved my smoke when the wifi drops out on me due to signal fluctuation. It seems having a redundant check/system is a "nice to have" when getting to this point in the smoking hobby :)
 
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Looks like the one posted has 3 probe ports but comes with two probes . The third probes is an extra 20 bucks .
 
Extra 100 over the 1510 to get wifi plus a meat probe isn't that bad really , and the option for a second meat probe . Once you get it and see how awesome it works you won't even think about what you spent .
 
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Oh I didn't think to mention it but my wifi PID runs 4 probes. I also run a tp20 so I have a total of 6 probes going. A number of times the TP20 has saved my smoke when the wifi drops out on me due to signal fluctuation. It seems having a redundant check/system is a "nice to have" when getting to this point in the smoking hobby :)
I just placed the order for the WSD-1500H-W WiFi unit with 3 probes, and scored free 2 day shipping after a brief phone call. If it shows up Friday, I plan to get the conversion done this weekend. I may pm you if it looks way different than I expect under the bottom cover :emoji_thumbsup:
 
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I just placed the order for the WSD-1500H-W WiFi unit with 3 probes, and scored free 2 day shipping after a brief phone call. If it shows up Friday, I plan to get the conversion done this weekend. I may pm you if it looks way different than I expect under the bottom cover :emoji_thumbsup:

Awesome!
Yeah PM away. I'm not always on too much on the weekend but I'll keep an eye out periodically during the day Fr, Sat, and Sun (not during superbowl) hahaha
 
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tallbm tallbm would it be reasonable to use a connector like this to make the connections in the box? Soldering is an option as well.
I soldered the lugs to the wire at the heating element and used two wire nuts for the bypass under the smoker. Since the snap disc fails at the lugs like at the heating element I just wanted a tight twist wire to wire and a nut to grab the insulation and insulate the joint but incase my PID failed I could temporarily go back the Mes controller since I left the original connectors on the components with at least an inch of lead to strip and terminate back with two more nuts. I'm sure your double spade male connector to bypass just the black box relay would be fine but the Mes one tiny crimp on the wire insulation to hold the lug and a tiny crimp to terminate to the wire wasn't for me. My Auber plug and play is designed in Georgia and made in China just like the Mes per the sticket on the bottom of it but hopefully has more substantial components/connections.
 
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As long as there is a good reliable connection either approach of connectors or soldering should work. I don't have soldering equipment so mine have all been crimps with connectors. And as dr k dr k explains, he solders.

Go with what you want to and prepare to be in PID heaven! :)
 
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Smoke , I thought about using those connectors , but in my mind it created possible points of failure . I was thinking like dr k . Might need to switch back , but I remembered I have 4 other options on the patio . LOL . I crimped and used heat shrink .
 
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Smoke , I thought about using those connectors , but in my mind it created possible points of failure . I was thinking like dr k . Might need to switch back , but I remembered I have 4 other options on the patio . LOL . I crimped and used heat shrink .
I was thinking of using the connectors and soldering them together, still reversible
 
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Well, I’ll need some guidance from here. MES 140S for future reference. I have a Voltmeter, but I’m not super savvy on checking anything but voltage. The four heaviest wires are braided red, braided blue, smooth white and smooth black. tallbm tallbm
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The wires under the element cover are braided red and braided black. The smooth black and smooth white are part of the power cable. The logical thought would be black to red and blue to white. I connected them and plugged it in, now I have power straight to the element as desired.
If anyone concludes my method is incorrect, please let me know!
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Great job sm0kin sm0kin !

Sorry for getting on so late. I've been buried with chores today and just now was able to check the forum today.
I think you have it solved. How are things running????
 
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