MES MB20072816 Not Heating

[UncleRichard]

My masterbuilt smoker stopped heating and I have not been able to fix it. I've had this for probably +5 years and it's awesome until now. Stumbled around the internet and found this forum. Here is what's going on..
-Heating light is on at the control panel but doesn't heat
-I can hear the circuit board click when setting the temperature
-Replaced control panel but didn't fix
-Replaced element but didn't fix. Verified old element 12.2 and new element 12.0ohms. New element is in it. Did not replace wire connectors at element because they were not corroded in my opinion. Didn't appear to be any major heat damage in the element compartment area.
-Verified no voltage at elements when it's on and no voltage on the red/black wires connecting to the circuit board.

It would be appreciated if someone could point me in the right direction.

 

[smokerjim]

Safety rollout switch?

 

[chopsaw]

Change out the connectors . 5 years old it's time . Could be when they get hot they disconnect .
I had that happen .

However , problem might be the limit switch / snap disc is shot . That's the round , flat looking thing on the back wall . Depends on what model you have on the location .

Also , some of the newer models have and access panel on the back to get to the wires for the limit . If not you'll need to cut one .

You could take the wires off the element ( unplug it first ) and do a resistance check for continuity when cold . Not sure if that works though . Best way would be to access the back of the switch . Check the wires , and do an ohm check at the terminals .

 

[UncleRichard]

Change out the connectors . 5 years old it's time . Could be when they get hot they disconnect .
I had that happen .

However , problem might be the limit switch / snap disc is shot . That's the round , flat looking thing on the back wall . Depends on what model you have on the location .

Also , some of the newer models have and access panel on the back to get to the wires for the limit . If not you'll need to cut one .

You could take the wires off the element ( unplug it first ) and do a resistance check for continuity when cold . Not sure if that works though . Best way would be to access the back of the switch . Check the wires , and do an ohm check at the terminals .

Okay. I ordered new temperature limit switch and connectors from Amazon. Will have them Monday and will post results.

Have to order the switch regardless due to breaking the connectors off!!

 

[UncleRichard]

It was the temperature limit switch!!!! Bought a pack of 6 for $7 on Amazon ( KSD301 250v 10a 150c) but I can tell they are Chinese poop because the wire connector came off. Also replaced the connectors for the heating element..

Know of any USA made limit switches or at least better than China?

Thanks guys.

 

[normanaj]

Know of any USA made limit switches or at least better than China?

There are better ones I just can't find the thread.I'll tag tallbm as he was the one who posted the thread.

 

[tallbm]

It was the temperature limit switch!!!! Bought a pack of 6 for $7 on Amazon ( KSD301 250v 10a 150c) but I can tell they are Chinese poop because the wire connector came off. Also replaced the connectors for the heating element..

Know of any USA made limit switches or at least better than China?

Thanks guys.

Hi there and welcome!

The only "better" you can get is to get ceramic switches. Just know that if you wiggle the tabs on the switches AT ALL (where they connect to the back of the switch) the switch will likely melt down on you after a while (months maybe). So I found it best to gently get the connectors on the switch THEN crimp/solder the wires to the connects, THEN fasten it to the MES hahaha. This way there was less tension on the witch while working with it.

If all else fails you can just wire around it but WARNING you are cutting out the safety switch from the mix so you should be sure to have a lot of working thermometer probes to rely on to know your smoker isn't running over on it's heat up.

Now that you are digging into your MES a bit more, you can go down the wonderful rabbit hole of the simple rewire and using an Auber PID controller to control it and make it perform 100x better than anything masterbuilt makes brand new.

If that interests you then these 180C ceramic safety limit switches would also allow you to do 325F smokes since the PID controller is not limited at 275F max. I just make sure I never go over 325F smoker temp and never at that temp for more 4 hours. This solves all my rubber/leather chicken and turkey skin issues :D

For under $13 USD here is an 8 pack of ceramic that go 180C/356F:

https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Thermostat-Normally-Temperature-Microwaves/dp/B0DMZ9Q3G3/ref=sr_1_5?crid=2JQ8FBZ87YITY&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.KV74e4QG-pJcygrImXPtvEbyWkIWinXrB6-VgigKoAEEV_g_Fhx5OX0dQDC_kubsNrMpN2F8dzT5zklli6ARhRIsF3f4OirJN9f6UlD-7qV__WA-X80kjIMRNnCqizpvR75K-sag-NqA3FZW3J8sjN4lwhioxebU7Khlo-ZCHt_TBJi6YeT49UGk7p-cNyFYp3ONS_jGE0uY7p2bhretAZ4L-kA7vBwtX0j3mXrhapw.t3SZtZSLpmuicRtXQTfJaTMZVp82aclO9bc1GluZ3Ik&dib_tag=se&keywords=ksd301%2B180c%2Bceramic&qid=1746567107&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011&rnid=2470954011&rps=1&sprefix=ksd301%2B180c%2Bceramic%2Caps%2C121&sr=8-5&xpid=k4FaMrk0WN2mY&th=1

In any case ceramic switches are a little more robust since there is less plastic to actually melt in those switches where the connector tabs fasten to the back of the switch. You can find ceramic switches in lower temps as well that will work fine in place of your plastic ones.

I hope this info helps :D

 

[UncleRichard]

Thanks Tallbm. Ive been very pleased with my MES except this mishap. I got started on a thin uninsulated metal smoker and it was an art due to being weather dependent.

Hopefully the temp limit switch doesn't break for a while.

Thanks again.

 

[tallbm]

Thanks Tallbm. Ive been very pleased with my MES except this mishap. I got started on a thin uninsulated metal smoker and it was an art due to being weather dependent.

Hopefully the temp limit switch doesn't break for a while.

Thanks again.

If you don't have a panel to it, it will be wise to cut one in the back so you can have easy access to the switch. It never fails that the switch will go bad on you while in the middle of a smoke.
At that point if you have a panel you can at least cut out the old switch, wire nut the 2 wire ends together and finish the smoke/cook. Then you can put another switch in sometime after the smoke/cook is done.

Trust me, this is a very very likely scenario so being able to keep on cooking is a good thing :D

 

[chaco81]

Hey Guys,

I have a similar issue, but am hoping you could also help to guide my smoker and I back to working condition. I have the 20077915, which I believe is the Gen2 from what I read in previous posts. I purchased 6 years ago I believe. I have only really smoked turkeys 1-2 times per year, so around 10 total smokes since purchase. I keep it in my garage so it is out of the elements, but not temperature changes within the garage.

I had planned to smoke a turkey this year as well, so I went out the night before, plugged it in to make sure it would work properly, let it run for about 30'ish minutes and she was smoking up to temp just fine. Shut it off and went to bed. The next morning, I plugged it in, turned it on, set the temp and time, and walked inside to prep the bird. Unfortunately, when I came out, it was not heating at all. I tried unplugging for 5 or so minutes, shutting it off and back on, but after 3 tries and no heat (even again today) I gave up. Everything on the control panel beeped and turned on/lit up as normal.

I've had zero issues thus far with this smoker. I don't have a voltmeter, I don't know how to solder or have the tools for it, but I can do simple rewiring with the proper instructions. It is kind of wild that it literally was working 10 hours prior and even though it wasn't moved around or anything, Murphy's Law came into play, lol.

Thoughts and guidance? Just tagging tallbm and chopsaw based on other posts.

 

[chopsaw]

Thoughts

I would remove the access panel on the back and check the wires going to the element .
UNPLUG it first , before removing the access .
They may look good , but you'll need to unplug them from the terminals and make sure the wires are good . Not brittle or burnt .

 

[tallbm]

Hey Guys,

I have a similar issue, but am hoping you could also help to guide my smoker and I back to working condition. I have the 20077915, which I believe is the Gen2 from what I read in previous posts. I purchased 6 years ago I believe. I have only really smoked turkeys 1-2 times per year, so around 10 total smokes since purchase. I keep it in my garage so it is out of the elements, but not temperature changes within the garage.

I had planned to smoke a turkey this year as well, so I went out the night before, plugged it in to make sure it would work properly, let it run for about 30'ish minutes and she was smoking up to temp just fine. Shut it off and went to bed. The next morning, I plugged it in, turned it on, set the temp and time, and walked inside to prep the bird. Unfortunately, when I came out, it was not heating at all. I tried unplugging for 5 or so minutes, shutting it off and back on, but after 3 tries and no heat (even again today) I gave up. Everything on the control panel beeped and turned on/lit up as normal.

I've had zero issues thus far with this smoker. I don't have a voltmeter, I don't know how to solder or have the tools for it, but I can do simple rewiring with the proper instructions. It is kind of wild that it literally was working 10 hours prior and even though it wasn't moved around or anything, Murphy's Law came into play, lol.

Thoughts and guidance? Just tagging tallbm and chopsaw based on other posts.

Hi there and welcome!

It sucks to hear this and sorry for not replying yesterday, I'm all over the place being busy as hell until the end of Jan.

The 1st thing I would check in your case before rewiring is if your MES "timer" was at zero.
The stock MES will turn on with all lights and displays and let you set a temperature but will NOT heat if the timer is at zero. I used to just max my timer out and then check occasionally so it wouldn't be close to running down to 0 and then not heating.

After that, you move on to check for the common failure areas where chopsaw mentioned. The electrical connectors at the heating element are a major failure point so getting some new crimp on ones and replacing the old ones will fix issues with connectors there.

The other major area of failure is at the high temp safety limit switch. You may have a panel to it on the back of your MES but most do not and have to cut into the sheet metal to access it. If you have to cut into the sheet metal it's ok because you want access to this switch for the future anyhow since the switch and the connectors to it fail very often and need to be repaired, improved, or bypassed to solve the problem well.

In this thread you will see where the safety limit switch is located so you can easily get to it:

MES Safety Rollout Limit Switch Located Here

The MES safety rollout limit switch is a common point of failure so I am making this post to have pictures of it that I can easily find instead of digging up new ones everytime we help someone with this issue. Also adding tags so it's easy to search in SMF and hopefully via Google as well...

www.smokingmeatforums.com

In short, if you have no panel you locate the switch on the inside of the smoker. Go to the back wall of the smoker in the same spot and cut access a cut that looks like this is good ][
Then you remove a metal box to see the switch.
The connectors may be corroded to hell or the switch may show burn signs or even be melting apart.
Cover the cuts made into the back sheet metal with flue tape or some even use duct tape.


The simple rewire guide is here:
https://www.smokingmeatforums.com/threads/mes-rewire-simple-guide-no-back-removal-needed.267069/


So to recap:
1. Check your MES timer to ensure it isn't at zero, if so bump it up to 24hr+ and see if your smoker will come on (likely will)
2. If not coming on check terminals at heating element panel
3. If no issue found then check safety high temp limit switch which may involve cutting a panel

 

[chaco81]

Hi there and welcome!

It sucks to hear this and sorry for not replying yesterday, I'm all over the place being busy as hell until the end of Jan.

The 1st thing I would check in your case before rewiring is if your MES "timer" was at zero.
The stock MES will turn on with all lights and displays and let you set a temperature but will NOT heat if the timer is at zero. I used to just max my timer out and then check occasionally so it wouldn't be close to running down to 0 and then not heating.

After that, you move on to check for the common failure areas where chopsaw mentioned. The electrical connectors at the heating element are a major failure point so getting some new crimp on ones and replacing the old ones will fix issues with connectors there.

The other major area of failure is at the high temp safety limit switch. You may have a panel to it on the back of your MES but most do not and have to cut into the sheet metal to access it. If you have to cut into the sheet metal it's ok because you want access to this switch for the future anyhow since the switch and the connectors to it fail very often and need to be repaired, improved, or bypassed to solve the problem well.

In this thread you will see where the safety limit switch is located so you can easily get to it:

MES Safety Rollout Limit Switch Located Here

The MES safety rollout limit switch is a common point of failure so I am making this post to have pictures of it that I can easily find instead of digging up new ones everytime we help someone with this issue. Also adding tags so it's easy to search in SMF and hopefully via Google as well...

www.smokingmeatforums.com

In short, if you have no panel you locate the switch on the inside of the smoker. Go to the back wall of the smoker in the same spot and cut access a cut that looks like this is good ][
Then you remove a metal box to see the switch.
The connectors may be corroded to hell or the switch may show burn signs or even be melting apart.
Cover the cuts made into the back sheet metal with flue tape or some even use duct tape.


The simple rewire guide is here:
https://www.smokingmeatforums.com/threads/mes-rewire-simple-guide-no-back-removal-needed.267069/


So to recap:
1. Check your MES timer to ensure it isn't at zero, if so bump it up to 24hr+ and see if your smoker will come on (likely will)
2. If not coming on check terminals at heating element panel
3. If no issue found then check safety high temp limit switch which may involve cutting a panel

Thank you guys. I appreciate your responses. I am attaching a couple pictures to this so I can understand what is what on the back of my smoker. Frankly, I'm surprised that the condition (in a good way) these areas are in.

On the back of my unit, about 6-10 inches up on the right (off center) is the picture with 2 connections, that both have a tan rubber cover over the connections. Both of these connections are very tight and as you can see in great shape.

The other photo is around 4 inches up from the bottom and mostly centered on the back of the smoker. The covers on these connections are black and quite tight to the connections, which are also tight.

Are either of these areas where the safety high temp limit switch is? Also, I did ensure the timer was set all times that I was checking and trying to use the smoker. I learned around my second smoke that I had to set that to get it to heat. Is it strange at all that it heated just fine the night before and without being moved or jostled just didn't after around 10 hours the next morning?

Last question, related to the high temp limit switch, is that an issue with every smoker out there? You'd think that being such a known fail point, it would be modified in some way to last longer.

Thank you again.

Hi there and welcome!

It sucks to hear this and sorry for not replying yesterday, I'm all over the place being busy as hell until the end of Jan.

The 1st thing I would check in your case before rewiring is if your MES "timer" was at zero.
The stock MES will turn on with all lights and displays and let you set a temperature but will NOT heat if the timer is at zero. I used to just max my timer out and then check occasionally so it wouldn't be close to running down to 0 and then not heating.

After that, you move on to check for the common failure areas where chopsaw mentioned. The electrical connectors at the heating element are a major failure point so getting some new crimp on ones and replacing the old ones will fix issues with connectors there.

The other major area of failure is at the high temp safety limit switch. You may have a panel to it on the back of your MES but most do not and have to cut into the sheet metal to access it. If you have to cut into the sheet metal it's ok because you want access to this switch for the future anyhow since the switch and the connectors to it fail very often and need to be repaired, improved, or bypassed to solve the problem well.

In this thread you will see where the safety limit switch is located so you can easily get to it:

MES Safety Rollout Limit Switch Located Here

The MES safety rollout limit switch is a common point of failure so I am making this post to have pictures of it that I can easily find instead of digging up new ones everytime we help someone with this issue. Also adding tags so it's easy to search in SMF and hopefully via Google as well...

www.smokingmeatforums.com

In short, if you have no panel you locate the switch on the inside of the smoker. Go to the back wall of the smoker in the same spot and cut access a cut that looks like this is good ][
Then you remove a metal box to see the switch.
The connectors may be corroded to hell or the switch may show burn signs or even be melting apart.
Cover the cuts made into the back sheet metal with flue tape or some even use duct tape.


The simple rewire guide is here:
https://www.smokingmeatforums.com/threads/mes-rewire-simple-guide-no-back-removal-needed.267069/


So to recap:
1. Check your MES timer to ensure it isn't at zero, if so bump it up to 24hr+ and see if your smoker will come on (likely will)
2. If not coming on check terminals at heating element panel
3. If no issue found then check safety high temp limit switch which may involve cutting a panel

Thank you guys. I appreciate your responses. I am attaching a couple pictures to this so I can understand what is what on the back of my smoker. Frankly, I'm surprised that the condition (in a good way) these areas are in.

On the back of my unit, about 6-10 inches up on the right (off center) is the picture with 2 connections, that both have a tan rubber cover over the connections. Both of these connections are very tight and as you can see in great shape.

The other photo is around 4 inches up from the bottom and mostly centered on the back of the smoker. The covers on these connections are black and quite tight to the connections, which are also tight.

Are either of these areas where the safety high temp limit switch is? Also, I did ensure the timer was set all times that I was checking and trying to use the smoker. I learned around my second smoke that I had to set that to get it to heat. Is it strange at all that it heated just fine the night before and without being moved or jostled just didn't after around 10 hours the next morning?

Last question, related to the high temp limit switch, is that an issue with every smoker out there? You'd think that being such a known fail point, it would be modified in some way to last longer.

Thank you again.

 

[normanaj]

The photo on the left is the safety limit switch and the right is the element.

Last question, related to the high temp limit switch, is that an issue with every smoker out there? You'd think that being such a known fail point, it would be modified in some way to last longer.

Not on every smoker.I have two MES units both with the originals but do have better spares for if/when they fail.In your case replacing it will be as simple as it looks with those type connectors and the excellent condition.

 

[tallbm]

Thank you guys. I appreciate your responses. I am attaching a couple pictures to this so I can understand what is what on the back of my smoker. Frankly, I'm surprised that the condition (in a good way) these areas are in.

On the back of my unit, about 6-10 inches up on the right (off center) is the picture with 2 connections, that both have a tan rubber cover over the connections. Both of these connections are very tight and as you can see in great shape.

The other photo is around 4 inches up from the bottom and mostly centered on the back of the smoker. The covers on these connections are black and quite tight to the connections, which are also tight.

Are either of these areas where the safety high temp limit switch is? Also, I did ensure the timer was set all times that I was checking and trying to use the smoker. I learned around my second smoke that I had to set that to get it to heat. Is it strange at all that it heated just fine the night before and without being moved or jostled just didn't after around 10 hours the next morning?

Last question, related to the high temp limit switch, is that an issue with every smoker out there? You'd think that being such a known fail point, it would be modified in some way to last longer.

Thank you again.

Thank you guys. I appreciate your responses. I am attaching a couple pictures to this so I can understand what is what on the back of my smoker. Frankly, I'm surprised that the condition (in a good way) these areas are in.

On the back of my unit, about 6-10 inches up on the right (off center) is the picture with 2 connections, that both have a tan rubber cover over the connections. Both of these connections are very tight and as you can see in great shape.

The other photo is around 4 inches up from the bottom and mostly centered on the back of the smoker. The covers on these connections are black and quite tight to the connections, which are also tight.

Are either of these areas where the safety high temp limit switch is? Also, I did ensure the timer was set all times that I was checking and trying to use the smoker. I learned around my second smoke that I had to set that to get it to heat. Is it strange at all that it heated just fine the night before and without being moved or jostled just didn't after around 10 hours the next morning?

Last question, related to the high temp limit switch, is that an issue with every smoker out there? You'd think that being such a known fail point, it would be modified in some way to last longer.

Thank you again.

Thanks for the pictures!

As norman said left is safety limit switch, right is heating element.
Their is no burning or discoloration from the pictures but be sure to look under the covers of the connects. Often they can look fine but when you go under the covers or go to pull the connectors off they fall apart or are corroded underneath to the point of failing.

WORD OF CAUTION: the high temp safety limit switch is delicate so when looking at it don't be rough with it. If you cause the tabs to wiggle where they connect to the back of the switch that will lead to it failing in the not so distant future.

If looking at the connectors and the wires that are crimped to the connectors and they are tight and look fine then your issue is likely the bottom circuit board (a panel on the underneath side of the smoker) or the top controller itself. After that it would be the heating element but honestly the heating elements going out are more or a rarity unless something obvious has happened.

If you visually inspect the heating element and feel all over it when it is OFF and do not notice any issues then its the lower circuit board or the top controller.

The hardest part about the lower circuit board is flipping the MES over and getting it to a point where you can work on pulling the panel off and the plastic box off (has little tri-slot screws) to see the circuit board. Also that panel is often riveted so you would have to refasten it with some self tapping sheet metal screws.

I'd ensure the MES was unplugged and inspect the heating element and then move to checking out the lower circuit board.

This all sounds like a lot of hassle BUT once you find the issue you basically have seen every part of the MES and know how to fix it all.
I personally would really consider just doing the rewire and popping on Auber PID controller to transform that smoker into a beast. I always say it's like turning a golf cart into a Ferrari when you do the simple rewire and slap on a PID controller. It is really a new smoker that operates better than any electric or pellet smoker that is around $1k or so.
We all have wondered why it took us so long to convert our MES units and never looked back. Like seriously I have never seen anyone be remotely unhappy with moving forward with the rewire and PID controller.

If you find an issue (burn marks, flooded with water, etc.) with the lower control board there is a chance you could find a 3rd party replacement on Amazon but if not then your option is to rewire and slap on a PID controller or buy a new smoker.

If you are leaning towards rewiring at all we can also easily test the heating element after the rewire which will be the last test if you see no issues with the lower circuit board anyhow.

I hope this info helps :D

 

[chaco81]

tallbm , couple additional questions/info for you.

1. I have been careful with all 4 of the visible connections. The element connectors that have the heavier black rubber covers, I did not remove, but did pull them back slightly and they are in pristine shape. The khaki colored rubber covers move easily, as they are a thinner rubber material so I was able to move them completely off of the slide connectors. I was not rough but inspected them enough to see they are also in practically new condition and are snug in place.

2. If I were to re-wire the smoker with the Auber PID, does that by pass the circuit board on the underneath of the smoker, making it non-functional? If I have zero knowledge or tools to solder, is that even still a possibility?

3. is there somehow that the upper control board could be bad or keep the heat from cycling on, when every other button and light function normally?

I'm not sure if this forum is for smokers in general or just masterbuilt ones, but I have been eyeing a larger smoker since buying this one and seeing that I can't smoke everything I'd like to in it. Are there others you guys recommend, brands that is?

 

[chopsaw]

I'm not sure if this forum is for smokers in general or just masterbuilt ones,

There's info and knowledge here on anything you want to know , and some things you don't want to know .

If you click on the Forums tab at the top of the page , you can look through all the sections .

 

[normanaj]

2. If I were to re-wire the smoker with the Auber PID, does that by pass the circuit board on the underneath of the smoker, making it non-functional? If I have zero knowledge or tools to solder, is that even still a possibility?

Yes and yes and soldering is not required.

3. is there somehow that the upper control board could be bad or keep the heat from cycling on, when every other button and light function normally?

That is certainly a possibility.

 

[normanaj]

.

 

[tallbm]

tallbm , couple additional questions/info for you.

1. I have been careful with all 4 of the visible connections. The element connectors that have the heavier black rubber covers, I did not remove, but did pull them back slightly and they are in pristine shape. The khaki colored rubber covers move easily, as they are a thinner rubber material so I was able to move them completely off of the slide connectors. I was not rough but inspected them enough to see they are also in practically new condition and are snug in place.

2. If I were to re-wire the smoker with the Auber PID, does that by pass the circuit board on the underneath of the smoker, making it non-functional? If I have zero knowledge or tools to solder, is that even still a possibility?

3. is there somehow that the upper control board could be bad or keep the heat from cycling on, when every other button and light function normally?

I'm not sure if this forum is for smokers in general or just masterbuilt ones, but I have been eyeing a larger smoker since buying this one and seeing that I can't smoke everything I'd like to in it. Are there others you guys recommend, brands that is?

1. Ok so connectors seem ok, we move on to the other parts :D

2. Rewiring would bypass the lower circuit board and would make it not function with the stock controller on top. The stock controller would not even be fed power.
Now, you could do some fancy wiring with a switch, etc. etc. to be able to switch between a rewire configuration for a PID and to run the stock circuitry BUT I would not recommend it as once you go to a PID you go to Ferrari performance and switching back to Golf cart level of performance would never make sense hahahaha.

The beautiful thing about the simple rewire is for using a PID controller requires cutting the ends off 4 wires and using 2 wire nuts to make 2 whole wires out of the ends. If you can cut, strip a little insulation off the ends of the wires, and twist a wire nut you can do the rewire. Plenty with no electrical experience at all have done this :D

Finally, more answer to "non-functinal", the rewire would make the smoker function where if the plug is fed power, the heating element would heat up. It would do so uncontrolled and would heat up until it failed because it is basically ON when plugged in and OFF when unplugged.
This is why a PID controller is needed to control the smoker once rewired.

The rewire works like this:
A. Smoker is rewired so plug feeds power straight to the heating element
B. The rewired Smoker plugs into the PID controller and the PID controller is plugged into the Wall outlet.
C. The PID temp probe is dropped down the smoker vent hole and clipped to the bottom of the lowest smoker rack so it reads temperature.
D. The PID is turned on and the smoker set temp is entered. The PID will now feed power to the smoker to hit and hold the set temp.
The PID smoker takes power from the wall outlet and feeds it to the rewired smoker plug which sends it straight to the heating element. The heating element heats up until the set temp is reached and then PID continues to cut power on//off to hold the temp.

3. There is definitely a possiblity the top controller is bad where it fails to trigger the switch that lets heat go to the heating element. It is less likely when all the other lights and buttons work but can happen.
The other possibility is that the lower circuit board has a component burnt out like the switch is burnt and/or stuck in the OFF Position so even when it receives signal from the top controller to allow power to go to the heating element, the switch cannot switch to let the power through.

If you do the rewire then the MES plug will feed power directly to the heating element and it will just heat up. This will let you know that the heating element is good. If it does not heat up then the heating element is the failure point, provided that the connectors and wires going to the heating element have no issues.

A $10 multimeter tool with continuity and ohms checking will let you test if the wiring has any breaks in it and if the heating element has the proper resistance (ohms) should the smoker get rewired and the element not heat up.
This may sound complicated but with a multimeter it is literally just turn the dial to the correct setting and touch ends of wires or ends of the heating element, with all wires disconnected. The readings tell you what is up. Pretty simple once the tool is in hand :D

let me know if this makes sense :D