MES MB20072816 Not Heating

[UncleRichard]

My masterbuilt smoker stopped heating and I have not been able to fix it. I've had this for probably +5 years and it's awesome until now. Stumbled around the internet and found this forum. Here is what's going on..
-Heating light is on at the control panel but doesn't heat
-I can hear the circuit board click when setting the temperature
-Replaced control panel but didn't fix
-Replaced element but didn't fix. Verified old element 12.2 and new element 12.0ohms. New element is in it. Did not replace wire connectors at element because they were not corroded in my opinion. Didn't appear to be any major heat damage in the element compartment area.
-Verified no voltage at elements when it's on and no voltage on the red/black wires connecting to the circuit board.

It would be appreciated if someone could point me in the right direction.

 

[smokerjim]

Safety rollout switch?

 

[chopsaw]

Change out the connectors . 5 years old it's time . Could be when they get hot they disconnect .
I had that happen .

However , problem might be the limit switch / snap disc is shot . That's the round , flat looking thing on the back wall . Depends on what model you have on the location .

Also , some of the newer models have and access panel on the back to get to the wires for the limit . If not you'll need to cut one .

You could take the wires off the element ( unplug it first ) and do a resistance check for continuity when cold . Not sure if that works though . Best way would be to access the back of the switch . Check the wires , and do an ohm check at the terminals .

 

[UncleRichard]

Change out the connectors . 5 years old it's time . Could be when they get hot they disconnect .
I had that happen .

However , problem might be the limit switch / snap disc is shot . That's the round , flat looking thing on the back wall . Depends on what model you have on the location .

Also , some of the newer models have and access panel on the back to get to the wires for the limit . If not you'll need to cut one .

You could take the wires off the element ( unplug it first ) and do a resistance check for continuity when cold . Not sure if that works though . Best way would be to access the back of the switch . Check the wires , and do an ohm check at the terminals .

Okay. I ordered new temperature limit switch and connectors from Amazon. Will have them Monday and will post results.

Have to order the switch regardless due to breaking the connectors off!!

 

[UncleRichard]

It was the temperature limit switch!!!! Bought a pack of 6 for $7 on Amazon ( KSD301 250v 10a 150c) but I can tell they are Chinese poop because the wire connector came off. Also replaced the connectors for the heating element..

Know of any USA made limit switches or at least better than China?

Thanks guys.

 

[normanaj]

Know of any USA made limit switches or at least better than China?

There are better ones I just can't find the thread.I'll tag tallbm as he was the one who posted the thread.

 

[tallbm]

It was the temperature limit switch!!!! Bought a pack of 6 for $7 on Amazon ( KSD301 250v 10a 150c) but I can tell they are Chinese poop because the wire connector came off. Also replaced the connectors for the heating element..

Know of any USA made limit switches or at least better than China?

Thanks guys.

Hi there and welcome!

The only "better" you can get is to get ceramic switches. Just know that if you wiggle the tabs on the switches AT ALL (where they connect to the back of the switch) the switch will likely melt down on you after a while (months maybe). So I found it best to gently get the connectors on the switch THEN crimp/solder the wires to the connects, THEN fasten it to the MES hahaha. This way there was less tension on the witch while working with it.

If all else fails you can just wire around it but WARNING you are cutting out the safety switch from the mix so you should be sure to have a lot of working thermometer probes to rely on to know your smoker isn't running over on it's heat up.

Now that you are digging into your MES a bit more, you can go down the wonderful rabbit hole of the simple rewire and using an Auber PID controller to control it and make it perform 100x better than anything masterbuilt makes brand new.

If that interests you then these 180C ceramic safety limit switches would also allow you to do 325F smokes since the PID controller is not limited at 275F max. I just make sure I never go over 325F smoker temp and never at that temp for more 4 hours. This solves all my rubber/leather chicken and turkey skin issues :D

For under $13 USD here is an 8 pack of ceramic that go 180C/356F:

https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Thermostat-Normally-Temperature-Microwaves/dp/B0DMZ9Q3G3/ref=sr_1_5?crid=2JQ8FBZ87YITY&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.KV74e4QG-pJcygrImXPtvEbyWkIWinXrB6-VgigKoAEEV_g_Fhx5OX0dQDC_kubsNrMpN2F8dzT5zklli6ARhRIsF3f4OirJN9f6UlD-7qV__WA-X80kjIMRNnCqizpvR75K-sag-NqA3FZW3J8sjN4lwhioxebU7Khlo-ZCHt_TBJi6YeT49UGk7p-cNyFYp3ONS_jGE0uY7p2bhretAZ4L-kA7vBwtX0j3mXrhapw.t3SZtZSLpmuicRtXQTfJaTMZVp82aclO9bc1GluZ3Ik&dib_tag=se&keywords=ksd301%2B180c%2Bceramic&qid=1746567107&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011&rnid=2470954011&rps=1&sprefix=ksd301%2B180c%2Bceramic%2Caps%2C121&sr=8-5&xpid=k4FaMrk0WN2mY&th=1

In any case ceramic switches are a little more robust since there is less plastic to actually melt in those switches where the connector tabs fasten to the back of the switch. You can find ceramic switches in lower temps as well that will work fine in place of your plastic ones.

I hope this info helps :D

 

[UncleRichard]

Thanks Tallbm. Ive been very pleased with my MES except this mishap. I got started on a thin uninsulated metal smoker and it was an art due to being weather dependent.

Hopefully the temp limit switch doesn't break for a while.

Thanks again.

 

[tallbm]

Thanks Tallbm. Ive been very pleased with my MES except this mishap. I got started on a thin uninsulated metal smoker and it was an art due to being weather dependent.

Hopefully the temp limit switch doesn't break for a while.

Thanks again.

If you don't have a panel to it, it will be wise to cut one in the back so you can have easy access to the switch. It never fails that the switch will go bad on you while in the middle of a smoke.
At that point if you have a panel you can at least cut out the old switch, wire nut the 2 wire ends together and finish the smoke/cook. Then you can put another switch in sometime after the smoke/cook is done.

Trust me, this is a very very likely scenario so being able to keep on cooking is a good thing :D

 

[chaco81]

Hey Guys,

I have a similar issue, but am hoping you could also help to guide my smoker and I back to working condition. I have the 20077915, which I believe is the Gen2 from what I read in previous posts. I purchased 6 years ago I believe. I have only really smoked turkeys 1-2 times per year, so around 10 total smokes since purchase. I keep it in my garage so it is out of the elements, but not temperature changes within the garage.

I had planned to smoke a turkey this year as well, so I went out the night before, plugged it in to make sure it would work properly, let it run for about 30'ish minutes and she was smoking up to temp just fine. Shut it off and went to bed. The next morning, I plugged it in, turned it on, set the temp and time, and walked inside to prep the bird. Unfortunately, when I came out, it was not heating at all. I tried unplugging for 5 or so minutes, shutting it off and back on, but after 3 tries and no heat (even again today) I gave up. Everything on the control panel beeped and turned on/lit up as normal.

I've had zero issues thus far with this smoker. I don't have a voltmeter, I don't know how to solder or have the tools for it, but I can do simple rewiring with the proper instructions. It is kind of wild that it literally was working 10 hours prior and even though it wasn't moved around or anything, Murphy's Law came into play, lol.

Thoughts and guidance? Just tagging tallbm and chopsaw based on other posts.

 

[chopsaw]

Thoughts

I would remove the access panel on the back and check the wires going to the element .
UNPLUG it first , before removing the access .
They may look good , but you'll need to unplug them from the terminals and make sure the wires are good . Not brittle or burnt .