mes cold smoker kit.

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It's a constant "trial and error" with me and the CSK. Last weekend, I smoked some steaks, and even though I turned the controller all the way down (once the smoke was going), the smoke just kept coming. However, it was thin. I found the steaks "too smoky" but I was alone in that opinion. Everyone else thought they were perfect.

I've never gotten a smoke ring with the MES. Is that even possible with an electric smoker? I honestly don't know.

Smoke ring with an MES is possible, but it adds nothing to the meats flavor.

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To get a smoke ring, you must burn a couple of charcoal brickets in the chip tray, and smoke the meat using some type of aux smoker. I have A-MAZE-N oval tubes, tubes, 5x8 tray, and a Masterbuilt Aux smoker. I did the above just to prove it could be done. Its just like my favorite current saying, "just because you can do a thing, doesn't mean you should".

Too smokey? Three causes, too much smoke (open the exhaust vent), too much smoke, you need not smoke the entire time you are cooking the meat or just cut back on your chips/pellets, change your wood type. If you are using hickoy/mesquite/oak quit and try a nice fruit or nut wood and see if it helps. Or any combination of the above. You want to find your smokers sweet spot. Thats where the smoker is happy and its easy on you.

Different people can taste smoke differently. My mom would not eat my Pop's smoke. I asked why once, se said it was too smokey. He was trying to smoke everything the same. Chicken/fish = mild smoke, pork middles smoke, and beef can handle anything. My go to smoke is pecan a medium smoke because I have pecan trees. But my favorite at the moment is apple/corn cob. Apply less smoke, vent more, try a different type sweeter smoke.
 
Hi all.. I have a MES Gen 1 with a CSK attached. Much like everyone else, I've been having issues with oversmoked or creosote flavor build up. Gave the MES a good cleaning after my last few attempts with the CSK. Found this thread, and got the Harbor Freight variable controller recommended by dogwalker.

Just curious on the results those of you who followed his suggestion. Smoked a brisket with apple pellets yesterday on the mid-low setting, and although I got a thinner, longer lasting smoke with less creosote smell, the brisket turned out with no smoke ring and a slightly harsh flavor.

I haven't resorted to using the pipes others have recommended, but I wanted to see if I can get the variable motor speed controller working.

Thanks again, keep on smoking..

Angel, its a cold smoker. A cold smoker is not a hot smoker. A cold smoke needs 3 to 4 times as much smoke to equal warm smoke. FYI......

I just cold smoked a ham for Easter. 10 hours of smoke with a nice amber color that corn cob and apple. That ham is raw and must be cooked to eat, but the color and smell are really nice.

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Below is a blade end pork bone in roast, that a 4 hours hot smoke and its ready to eat.

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Cold smoke is just that smoking cold meat, cold meat does not accept smoke as readily as hot smoke. The same as wet meat smokes slower than dry meat.

When I use my cold smoker I am smoking cold meats because of the amout of smoke required. I even leave my door cracked on the MES 40, most of the time because of all the smoke!
 

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I have the mes cold smoker kit and use it all the time .I also have the AMNPS but like to use a mix of lump charcoal broken up and chips and even mix in pellets ,produces a nice smoke and gives a good flavor to food . I can even break up wood chunks with a hatchet and use that too . As far as I'm concerned the versatility of the mes cold smoker is a big plus .I will say that it did increase the temperature in the smoker by about ten degrees but that was completely empty when I burned it in . Probably temp rise would be offset with a pan of ice . I also bought it from Bass pro cheaper than Masterbuilt . Actually it is on backorder from Masterbuilt and I think it is now out of stock at Bass Pro .
I make wood chunks from a log of hickory, oak and mesquite it gives out plenty of smokefor 8 to 10 hrs.
 
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The cold smoker attachment which I believe they changed the name to slow smoker attachment and now interchange the names has more people using it for hot smoking so they don't have to fiddle with chips as much. With the higher draft at higher temps it will create a white cloud so after it's going people shut it off and let it self stoke with just the draft for lighter smoke or some use a $20 router controller from Harbor Freight or anywhere to dial in the heating element for their desired smoke volume when cold or hot smoking. I don't have the slow smoke attachment and use the AMNPS but those that do if you remove the guts and place a chunk in the bottom and put everything back together like using chips, it seems like the new independent 150 watt chip/chunk burner built inside the new Mes 30 and 40 that can be set between 1-5 to dial in your desired smoke volume. It's just that the slow smoker with router controller is external vs. internal with the new 150 watt independent burner for chip/chunks. It would be a simple addition plugging the slow smoker into the router controller then the controller into the electrical receptacle and not have the never ending chip jamming, being able to burn chunks with a variable controller. Turn on slow smoker, then router controller and dial your heat. I don't know if this would work with chunks because I don't know how much room there is where the funnel flares and the chips burn but it does work with chips. Isn't a chunk a big chip? lol
 
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The cold smoker attachment which I believe they changed the name to slow smoker attachment and now interchange the names has more people using it for hot smoking so they don't have to fiddle with chips as much. With the higher draft at higher temps it will create a white cloud so after it's going people shut it off and let it self stoke with just the draft for lighter smoke or some use a $20 router controller from Harbor Freight or anywhere to dial in the heating element for their desired smoke volume when cold or hot smoking. I don't have the slow smoke attachment and use the AMNPS but those that do if you remove the guts and place a chunk in the bottom and put everything back together like using chips, it seems like the new independent 150 watt chip/chunk burner built inside the new Mes 30 and 40 that can be set between 1-5 to dial in your desired smoke volume. It's just that the slow smoker with router controller is external vs. internal with the new 150 watt independent burner for chip/chunks. It would be a simple addition plugging the slow smoker into the router controller then the controller into the electrical receptacle and not have the never ending chip jamming, being able to burn chunks with a variable controller. Turn on slow smoker, then router controller and dial your heat. I don't know if this would work with chunks because I don't know how much room there is where the funnel flares and the chips burn but it does work with chips. Isn't a chunk a big chip? lol
I cut them up then make 1"x1"chunks.
 
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I used a $10 plug-in dimmer. Worked great.
I cut them up then make 1"x1"chunks.
Ok now I'm getting somewhere. People with a slow smoker can get a custom smoke setting without chip jams, using chunks. Put 3-6 oz. of chunks in the bottom of the tower and slide on the screen and drop tower in the slow smoker. No white cloud smoke like with the new Mes 1-5 setting independent chip/chunk burner, No need to buy the new smoker if you already have a slow smoker but just need a rheostat to plug the slow smoker into.
 
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Ok now I'm getting somewhere. People with a slow smoker can get a custom smoke setting without chip jams, using chunks. Put 3-6 oz. of chunks in the bottom of the tower and slide on the screen and drop tower in the slow smoker. No white cloud smoke like with the new Mes 1-5 setting independent chip/chunk burner, No need to buy the new smoker if you already have a slow smoker but just need a rheostat to plug the slow smoker into.
I'm trying chunks in my slow smoker add on this weekend for ribs. Do I still add wood chips to the tower? Or will chunks alone be enough? I've also gotten the router controller from Harbor Freight gonna try that too, very excited to give this a try. Most of the chunks in the bag are pretty small and should fit the tower, the larger ones I will trim down. Thanks for any info.
 
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I'm trying chunks in my slow smoker add on this weekend for ribs. Do I still add wood chips to the tower? Or will chunks alone be enough? I've also gotten the router controller from Harbor Freight gonna try that too, very excited to give this a try. Most of the chunks in the bag are pretty small and should fit the tower, the larger ones I will trim down. Thanks for any info.
Chunks will smoke just fine.
 
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Chunks will smoke just fine.
Thanks for the fast reply! Fill tower half way? Like I do with chips? or more? or less? Thanks.
Also, is there an easier way to get the temps up in my MES? I set it to 275 and inside never gets above 220 usually. I've seen the PID mods some have posted, but looks very complicated for someone not very coordinated in electrical work. Is there some kind of Plug and Play mod I can do to get temps up?
 
Thanks for the fast reply! Fill tower half way? Like I do with chips? or more? or less? Thanks.
Also, is there an easier way to get the temps up in my MES? I set it to 275 and inside never gets above 220 usually. I've seen the PID mods some have posted, but looks very complicated for someone not very coordinated in electrical work. Is there some kind of Plug and Play mod I can do to get temps up?
Some light up a couple of charcoal briquettes in the bottom and put the wood chunks on top.
 
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Thanks for the fast reply! Fill tower half way? Like I do with chips? or more? or less? Thanks.
Also, is there an easier way to get the temps up in my MES? I set it to 275 and inside never gets above 220 usually. I've seen the PID mods some have posted, but looks very complicated for someone not very coordinated in electrical work. Is there some kind of Plug and Play mod I can do to get temps up?
I use the Auber WS-1510ELPM PID plug and play from auberins.com since I couldn't average actual temps over 250 in my Mes 40. You can do tallbm's simple rewire no back removal you can search which I did or get a 14 or 12 guage extention cord without the female plug end that comes stripped. Get two high heat 1/4" female spade connectors and solder them to the white and black wires. Take the bottom back plate off to access the element. Remove the connectors on the element and connect the two on the extension cord connectors. Doesn't matter which side for white or black wires. Wrap the green ground around one of the six access screws and tighten. Done. Plug into the Auber PID. Plug the Auber into the electric recepticle. Run Auber sensor down top vent and clip on the rack near your food. I have my top rack in to manage sensors/cables and cook on the midlle two. Second from top is my go to cooking rack.
 
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I use the Auber WS-1510ELPM PID plug and play from auberins.com since I couldn't average actual temps over 250 in my Mes 40. You can do tallbm's simple rewire no back removal you can search which I did or get a 14 or 12 guage extention cord without the female plug end that comes stripped. Get two high heat 1/4" female spade connectors and solder them to the white and black wires. Take the bottom back plate off to access the element. Remove the connectors on the element and connect the two on the extension cord connectors. Doesn't matter which side for white or black wires. Wrap the green ground around one of the six access screws and tighten. Done. Plug into the Auber PID. Plug the Auber into the electric recepticle. Run Auber sensor down top vent and clip on the rack near your food. I have my top rack in to manage sensors/cables and cook on the midlle two. Second from top is my go to cooking rack.
WOW, that seems much more simple than the method tallbm listed. So if I do this, I do not have to do anything from the tallbm rewire? I'm not very mechanical, and his steps were very detailed and I get confused easily, LOL. Thanks, if this is the case, I will try. Really appreciate the help and info.
Once this is done, will I still be able to use the MB timer and on/off controll? Or is that totally bypassed? Or does this just bypass the temp sensor and temp setting?
 
WOW, that seems much more simple than the method tallbm listed. So if I do this, I do not have to do anything from the tallbm rewire? I'm not very mechanical, and his steps were very detailed and I get confused easily, LOL. Thanks, if this is the case, I will try. Really appreciate the help and info.
Once this is done, will I still be able to use the MB timer and on/off controll? Or is that totally bypassed? Or does this just bypass the temp sensor and temp setting?
This wiring is from Auber. Nothing else to do. This bypasses everything Mes. If you have a removable Mes controller after the mod, then bring it inside in the a/c out of humidity. You have a back up in case it fails years from now and you can use the OEM controller if you put the Mes connectors back on the element. The simple rewire no back removal keeps the dime size flat sensor on the back wall in the circuit for over heating protection above 302 so it opens the circuit with heat like the thermostat in a car for coolant to flow but this cuts electricity to the element for fire safety . I peeled the rubber gasket off the access plate and stretch the holes over the screw heads to hold it in place and have a board lead up against the back of the smoker so nothing cacan fall and hit that area.
 
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This wiring is from Auber. Nothing else to do. This bypasses everything Mes. If you have a removable Mes controller after the mod, then bring it inside in the a/c out of humidity. You have a back up in case it fails years from now and you can use the OEM controller if you put the Mes connectors back on the element. The simple rewire no back removal keeps the dime size flat sensor on the back wall in the circuit for over heating protection above 302 so it opens the circuit with heat like the thermostat in a car for coolant to flow but this cuts electricity to the element for fire safety . I peeled the rubber gasket off the access plate and stretch the holes over the screw heads to hold it in place and have a board lead up against the back of the smoker so nothing cacan fall and hit that area.
got it. Seems pretty simple, I'm gonna go for it and let you know how it goes. Very grateful for the info. I'll write back if I run into any problems or to tell you how it went.
Hope to have it done in the next week or so, depending on part availability.
 
This wiring is from Auber. Nothing else to do. This bypasses everything Mes. If you have a removable Mes controller after the mod, then bring it inside in the a/c out of humidity. You have a back up in case it fails years from now and you can use the OEM controller if you put the Mes connectors back on the element. The simple rewire no back removal keeps the dime size flat sensor on the back wall in the circuit for over heating protection above 302 so it opens the circuit with heat like the thermostat in a car for coolant to flow but this cuts electricity to the element for fire safety . I peeled the rubber gasket off the access plate and stretch the holes over the screw heads to hold it in place and have a board lead up against the back of the smoker so nothing cacan fall and hit that area.
is this the correct one? https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=8&products_id=110
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That's the one I have for my Mes 40. I read the manual waiting for it to arrive. I've done the out of the box setting and auto tune, writing down the PID numbers so I can manually set them back but like the P=1, I=0 and D=0 when you hold the lock button then enter 166 to manually enter your PID settings, leaving the AT at 0 and T at 2. You can always set your cook time in minutes to 2,000+ or higher for single stage long cooks or switch to single mode without inputting minutes which I did. So it stays at that temp until you shut off the controller or change the temp. Is your smoker an Mes 40?
 
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That's the one I have for my Mes 40. I read the manual waiting for it to arrive. I've done the out of the box setting and auto tune, writing down the PID numbers so I can manually set them back but like the P=1, I=0 and D=0 when you hold the lock button then enter 166 to manually enter your PID settings, leaving the AT at 0 and T at 2. You can always set your cook time in minutes to 2,000+ or higher for single stage long cooks or switch to single mode without inputting minutes which I did. So it stays at that temp until you shut off the controller or change the temp. Is your smoker an Mes 40?
YES MES 40 ABOUT 5 YEARS OLD. ORDERED THE PID YESTERDAY WILL BE IN THIS WEEK, THEN I'M GONNA INSTALL. I HAVE A FRIEND WHO'S AN ELECTRICIAN THAT IS GONNA HELP ME SO I DON'T BLOW THE THING UP. LOL. THANKS FOR THE HELP AN INFO, IF THERE'S ANYTHING ELSE I NEED TO KNOW PLEASE FEEL FREE TO LET ME KNOW.
IF THIS WORKS LIKE YOU SAY, I WILL BE IN "HOG" HEAVEN.
 
That's the one I have for my Mes 40. I read the manual waiting for it to arrive. I've done the out of the box setting and auto tune, writing down the PID numbers so I can manually set them back but like the P=1, I=0 and D=0 when you hold the lock button then enter 166 to manually enter your PID settings, leaving the AT at 0 and T at 2. You can always set your cook time in minutes to 2,000+ or higher for single stage long cooks or switch to single mode without inputting minutes which I did. So it stays at that temp until you shut off the controller or change the temp. Is your smoker an Mes 40?
ONE MORE THING, COULD YOU SEND ME A PHOTO OF YOUR SETUP? TO SEE HOW YOU HAVE THE CORD AND CONTROLLER MOUNTED? THANKS, IF YOU CAN'T I UNDERSTAND.
 
ONE MORE THING, COULD YOU SEND ME A PHOTO OF YOUR SETUP? TO SEE HOW YOU HAVE THE CORD AND CONTROLLER MOUNTED? THANKS, IF YOU CAN'T I UNDERSTAND.
I did the no back removal simple rewire so my smoker cord plugs into the PID. I do have a piece of 2×6 the controller sits on to keep it cooler since te SSR heat sink is on the bottom. I Keep it shaded.
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