Masterbuilt mes 340g not working at all, with new parts

[SmokeinNJ]

Hi all, hope everyone's July 4th smoking is going well. Nothing happening here. My mes 340g from Sam's has not been working. I know lots of positive feedback about their customer service, but maybe as mines a few months out of warranty, hasn't been good experience so far.

Few months ago about a month after warranty, it kicked on, tossed the ribs in, and it heated to about 240, then stopped heating. Tried new outlets etc, nothing. Replaced the temp sensor, ran for one time then died. I contacted MB customer support and explained the situation and they said I needed a new sensor and new heating element. I explained and sent pics that the heatingbelememt was like new as it's only been used 6 or 7 times. They couldn't give a possible delivery date, so ordered from the Appliance Factory and got them in a few days.
Installed the new parts, and nothing. Spent another 50 minutes on hold with MB, then got hung up on. Another 32 min on hold, and now they say it's the controller board. They dont have any instock, and no idea when they may get any in. She said she could recommend a 3rd party but it's about $75 (about double thier price). Asked if they could notify me when parts come in, and she said, "no we are very busy and cant do that." I replied to them from my case email 3 days ago and still have not heard back.

I'm tempted to just cut a hole in the side and convert it to propane unit like my old homemade smoker that lasted years.
No parts are burnt or corroded. Non wires broken that I can tell. I tested continuity from the plug to the element and the sensor. Seems only the neutral has continuity. Cant find any continuity for the hot. Element tests fine.

Any thoughts or suggestions?? Just replaced the temp sensor again and nothing. And since this is a Sam's club model, can't seem to find any aftermarket controller board parts that matche this model.

I've searched forums, but most of the 'not working' or 'stopped heating' were due to bad elements.

At my wits end.
Neil.

 

[tropics]

I bought the extended warranty and mine die 3 weeks after that expired. So it will be a cold smoker for me.I use to live n NJ what part are you in?
Richie

 

[dr k]

Search for tallbm's simple no back removal bypass and get a PID controller. Or make a power cord out of a 14 or 12 gauge extension cord and solder on two high heat female quick disconnect spade lugs. Hook directly to the element and connect the ground to one of the six heating element access screws. Plug it into the PID and run PID sensor down top vent and clip near your food. The insulation in these digital smokers is fine for 275* but propane may get too hot.

 

[SmokeinNJ]

Thanks guys

Richie, in Mount Olive near rt 80 ..

Was hoping not to spend $80-140 on a PID controller as I already spent money on the sensors and heating element. But am trying to decide.
Trying to read about which PID will work with this 1200 watt unit.
My wife is almost suggesting getting a new propane smoker this weekend since they are on sale :) so might just make this one a cold smoker

Reading and reading.

Neil

 

[fivetricks]

I'd vote for a pid versus a propane smoker myself. :-)

 

[chopsaw]

Mine was doing the same thing . The wire was burnt at the element in the back . Had to remove the insulation to see it . These things are pretty simple , but you need to know why it's not working before you buy a pid . You could do the re wire as suggested . Plug it in . If it heats spend the money for a pid . You won't be sorry . Let us know what you do .

 

[SmokeinNJ]

It really all looked like new.
All wires were clean and so was the element. this is before I put the new heating element in.

 

[Steve H]

Where are the wires that go to the lugs for the heating element?

 

[chopsaw]

Where are the wires that go to the lugs for the heating element?

I thought the same thing . They're un plugged bottom of pic .

 

[SmokeinNJ]

Both red wires go to heating element Just unplugged from element so you could see the element connections. The black rubber insulation boot is also removed in this pic.

 

[Steve H]

Do you have a meter to detect if you are getting 110vac to those two leads? Even if it is "new" I've seen stranger things.

 

[SmokeinNJ]

Ok so still mystified.
Bought a heavy gauge appliance cord, disconnected the wires to the heating element and connected the cord to the heating element. Heated up, had 115v. Disconnected the temporary cord, reconnected the original wires (crimped them a little tighter before connecting) and powered it ON. Temp started to increase but slower than normal. It hit about 138 (set for 235) and then it lost voltage to the element. The control panel on top still worked and showed the red light as heating.

I am guessing the options are waiting for MB to get new controllers in or spending $100+ on a PID

Unless anyone has other thoughts ..

Neil.

 

[chopsaw]

When mine did that the wire was burnt at the element . I know you checked it . If the element is good , and you want to keep the smoker , do the re wire and buy the pid . You won't be sorry .

 

[SmokeinNJ]

I am wondering if there is a bad spot in the hot wire inside the unit. Unless I rip the back panel off (this version doesnt have the rivets on the bak) I cant tell where the plugs hot wire goes before it reaches the element connection.

Any suggestions on a plug n play for the 1200w unit? I dont need bells and whistles, as I have a multi-temp sensor unit for meat temps.
Neil

 

[Steve H]

Bypass the high temp limit. And see how it works.

 

[Steve H]

Also, make sure the neutral is secure

 

[SmokeinNJ]

Will try it later after dinner. Thanks for the help

 

[chopsaw]

I cant tell where the plugs hot wire goes before it reaches the element connection.

Should be an access door on the bottom .

 

[SmokeinNJ]

Ok. So I bypassed the snap temp sensor with a small jumper wire. System started heating up with element a good orange. Heated up to about 230 with temp set at 250. then slowly started going back down again. I had a temp meat sensor dropped down through the chimney to about the first rack that had at times a 50 degree higher difference from what the smoker display and internal meat sensor showed.
After it dropped down to 212 I upped the set temp to 255 but it just keeps going down.

Thought the bypass was the issue.

Hmm...

 

[Steve H]

Did you continue to watch the voltage at the element to make sure the element wasn't failing once it got hot? I've seen that many times before. The element will flex/open when getting hot. And loose temp.