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[beech350guy]

Has anyone just bypassed all of the problematic switches with regular toggle switches? I actually went back and read all 64 pages of this thread (great info, and thank you to all who have offered up valuable info!) I did not see anyone who just bypassed the poor quality lid/door switches, and installed simple toggle switches. My thinking is that a toggle mounted in a convenient location away from the heat will last a heck of a lot longer than the ones I've seen posted.

I'm building an airplane in my garage, so I'm reasonably confident I can install three switches to use when a door is opened. Or heck, one common switch for the ash door/charcoal fill, and one for when the cook chamber lid is opened? Just turn the switch off when you open the door, and then back on when you are through... My only question is this: when the doors are closed, or the circuit open or closed?

My 1050 will arrive tomorrow, and I will be installing the mods from LSS while assembling.

 

[mcokevin]

I haven't formally bypassed the switches yet, but I have added a cheater in the ash bin switch. MB has sent me enough spares that I should be good for the next couple failures. If you do bypass them in favor of toggles I'll be curious to know your experience.

MB definitely does not recommend this. I'm hesitant to bypass safety features but I also want a working smoker. So far my problems seem resolved, but if they return I'll revisit the idea.

I would definitely recommend getting to know your smoker and how it operates before you bypass critical safety features.

I would be more hesitant to bypass the hopper lid switch at the top than the ash bin door. If the fan keeps blowing with the top open you're going to get a hell of a lot of convection, and within a few seconds you'll have a flamethrower shooting out of the top with no real way to stop the fire. The ash bin door switch is the only one I've had issues with.

My only question is this: when the doors are closed, or the circuit open or closed?

Being that these are fail safe I can only assume the circuit for each switch is normally open/momentary close, with the PID controller only spinning the fan when the hopper lid and ash door circuits are both closed, and when set above 500 also only when the cook chamber lid is closed. Any failure in the switch, wiring, or connection would then open the circuit and default to a safe state.

 

[bill1]

What percentage of switch failures have only been the lower ash bin switch? Is the hopper door switch relatively reliable by comparison?
I'd agree that shorting out the upper one and then forgetting to use a manual replacement switch has worse outcomes than with the lower one.

 

[mcokevin]

For me it's only been the lower, and only after the smoker is running for 15-20 minutes. I suspect there is thermal expansion in the contact between the ash bin door and firebox/body. Adjusting the ash bin door doesn't seem to help. I've got a small bracket left over from some ikea furniture wedged in there for the time being so the switch is always closed.

 

[912smoker]

I have had no issues with the ash bin switch.
Only the hopper lid a couple of times and the cook chamber lid. Same switches so all areas are prone to failure. From what I read the Char Broil is having similar failures due to their design.

 

[negolien]

I have had no problem with the ash bin switch. i did bypass my lid switch after my first flare up O.o lol. I have had no other issues with my 560 after 3 years.

 

[negolien]

nm

 

[912smoker]

I have had no problem with the ash bin switch. i did bypass my lid switch after my first flare up O.o lol. I have had no other issues with my 560 after 3 years.

I haven't bypassed any I just spray them with contact cleaner and work them manually after she cools down. No issues since I've started that routine.

 

[RSK]

I have a GF 800 with basic LSS mod (firebox, manifold shield and waterpan)and use mainly KBB Pro from Costco. I noticed a build up of creosote build up in the charcoal chute after grilling Italian sausage and then some frozen Costco hamburgers the following weekend. Both cooks were @ 350F. Did have a bit of a grease fire but nothing huge- just kept moving the meat away from the flames Just wondering if anyone else has had creosote build up in that charcoal chute and is that common at higher temps?

 

[bill1]

... I noticed a build up of creosote build up in the charcoal chute after grilling Italian sausage and then some frozen Costco hamburgers the following weekend. Both cooks were @ 350F. Did have a bit of a grease fire but nothing huge- just kept moving the meat away from the flames Just wondering if anyone else has had creosote build up in that charcoal chute and is that common at higher temps?

I wouldn't call 350F all that hot. And a grease fire should have been really moving the air/smoke/creosote away from the hopper and sending it out the cook chamber. (Can you confirm?) Sounds like you were keeping the lid open plenty to be moving meat out of direct flame.
I wonder if your fan is moving enough air? You don't have a lot of smoke leakage out your hopper do you? E.g. from a poor seal?

 

[negolien]

it's a charcoal chute I just fill it up once in a while don't over think stuff.

 

[RSK]

I wouldn't call 350F all that hot. And a grease fire should have been really moving the air/smoke/creosote away from the hopper and sending it out the cook chamber. (Can you confirm?) Sounds like you were keeping the lid open plenty to be moving meat out of direct flame.
I wonder if your fan is moving enough air? You don't have a lot of smoke leakage out your hopper do you? E.g. from a poor seal?

I did keep the lid open after seeing the grease drippings flaring up. Fan seems ok as it comes up to temp ok and cycles after openining/ closing the lid. I do have a very small leak around the chute top but that seals after it warms up with just a light press down with my hand on the lid. I will try to re-adjust the lid latch to see if that takes care of it. Thanks

 

[bill1]

Thanks RSK.
It DOES seem like a lot of creosote. Not that I'd be overly concerned. Still curious if others have seen it.

 

[BBQ Bird]

I have a GF 800 with basic LSS mod (firebox, manifold shield and waterpan)and use mainly KBB Pro from Costco. I noticed a build up of creosote build up in the charcoal chute after grilling Italian sausage and then some frozen Costco hamburgers the following weekend. Both cooks were @ 350F. Did have a bit of a grease fire but nothing huge- just kept moving the meat away from the flames Just wondering if anyone else has had creosote build up in that charcoal chute and is that common at higher temps?

I have an 800 also, and there's similar creosote buildup in my hopper, too.

 

[beech350guy]

For anyone who is interested, here is how I bypassed the problematic switches. It was pretty straightforward, and I was glad that I did. I was able to zip-tie the wires away from the hopper/firebox, as they might melt if they contacted? I am not a huge fan of "safety" features that are prone to failures.

The other part I was rather surprised by was the power cord attach to the PCB. There is no strain-relief of any kind. I zip-tied the cord to the holes as shown. I am always tripping over stuff, as well as my kids and I know we probably yank the cord out if it was just attached by the two small wires...

 

[worldbfreebase]

go wireless and be done with it

 

[MooseSpectacles]

Anyone able to comment on burn time with B&B lump? I feel like I'm getting less than impressive burn time in my 1050, as I've done about 15-20 hours of cooks and I'm already almost done with my 30lb bag.

I do use about 2-3 layers of wood chunks, as well. I'll toss in about 1 large, baseball sized chunk and 2 smaller chunks/thick chips per layer.

 

[mcokevin]

For anyone who is interested, here is how I bypassed the problematic switches. It was pretty straightforward, and I was glad that I did. I was able to zip-tie the wires away from the hopper/firebox, as they might melt if they contacted? I am not a huge fan of "safety" features that are prone to failures.

Hey, nice job on the switches. I think it's really smart that you have them mounted right next to the hopper lid and ash bin door. Mind sharing which switch you used? I haven't decided if I am going to replace the factory switches with toggles yet, but I like the way you did it better than what my plan was going to be.

My plan was going to be to have a bank of two or three switches and mount them near the controller in a little back box or housing, but I think having them where you do makes it much less likely that the operator would forget to disengage the switch.

The other part I was rather surprised by was the power cord attach to the PCB. There is no strain-relief of any kind. I zip-tied the cord to the holes as shown. I am always tripping over stuff, as well as my kids and I know we probably yank the cord out if it was just attached by the two small wires...

Yeah, I had the same thought when I put mine together - really poor design. I used the antenna base as strain relief because I didn't want to see the zip tie through the front of the unit.

 

[negolien]

I don't see an issue with by passing the switches to a small fuse I did my lid switch bout a year ago. Why wait for it to break before by-passing? I had 0 other issues in 3 years and I use it quite a bit. Honestly, I don't even see the reason for the switches but /shrug I am not an engineer.

The 560 was the first iteration of the grills and for the price point it's gonna have some small issues. Sure they could made some stuff thicker or better but I think they cut some corners to meet the price point. There were 0 other gf smokers/grills anywhere near affordable when they came out with the 560. It beats low price pellet grills like red headed step children for quality of cook and ability to get HOT too so no hate just a fact /snicker. I also think that some of the issues people have are people issues no offense but humans are innately stupid imho .

Only thing I am unhappy about is the inability to find a 1050 on sale and lug it to my 2nd floor apartment to covertly smoke/grill in the middle of the night HAHAHHAHAH

 

[beech350guy]

Hey, nice job on the switches. I think it's really smart that you have them mounted right next to the hopper lid and ash bin door. Mind sharing which switch you used?

My plan was going to be to have a bank of two or three switches and mount them near the controller in a little back box or housing, but I think having them where you do makes it much less likely that the operator would forget to disengage the switch.

Yeah, I had the same thought when I put mine together - really poor design. I used the antenna base as strain relief because I didn't want to see the zip tie through the front of the unit.

I wish I could tell you the make/model of the switches, but I threw the packages away. I just picked them up and my local auto parts store. These had the wire leads already on the switch so I just clipped off the electrical connectors that came on the smoker, and soldered the wires together. It's pretty straightforward.

Someone above was asking about fuel consumption. I just did a 14 hour brisket smoke at 225/250. I think I used maybe 3/4 of an 18lb bag of Kingsford original briquettes? I do not mix in any wood with the charcoal. All my smoke wood is placed into the grate in the ash pan. I have the LSS mod, and I am happy with the results. Lots of great smoke.

One thing that I think will greatly help reduce fuel consumption is using smoker gasket seals around the lid. I installed the ones listed below ($14 amazon cheapies) and it was absolutely noticeable on the fuel burn reduction. The only place smoke/heat leaves my unit now is on the back out the vent. In my opinion, the less heat that escapes, the less fuel you will go through. Those seals at .125" are just about perfect for the opening between the lid and the bottom. I installed on the lid, as I didn't want grease etc. to soil them when pulling stuff off the grill.

All that being said, this grill is pretty impressive.