Masterbuilt 20051311 modifications

[joecaboose]

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• joecaboose
• Aug 16, 2016

My issues:

Difficult to move, leaking doors, impossible to maintain consistant heat under 250 degrees, suseptible to drafts

Modifications:

Added casters

Sealed doors using Green Egg insulation

Installed LP needle valve, closed off 1/2 burner jets (#6 brass screws)

Reduced the lower vent opening

WHAT A DIFFERENCE...!

 

[daveomak]

Excellent idea to plug 1/2 the burner holes....   using the needle valve with a reduced burner output must really give you excellent low temp control.....

What kind of temp control do you have now ???    Can you control the smoker near 80-100 deg. F  ??    If not, will you plug more burner holes ??  

I really like how you solved the problem of too many BTU's for that size smoker.....

Dave

 

[joecaboose]

I had no problem holding a consistant 200 for hours. Before the modifications, I was lucky to keep it at 260.

I have not tried (yet) any temps lower. Will post results when i do.

Joe

 

[daveomak]

....  thanks

 

[SmokinAl]

Great mods!

Al

 

[bobmws]

Hey guys, propane newbie here. I have a Masterbuilt electric smoker that went tits up after 6 years with a power issue. Decided to convert it to propane using an unused side burner from a grill, the frugal approach! The electric box is well insulated, and so I cut a 3x6 vent (sliding damper) on the bottom opposite side of the top vent thinking that fresh air would help cool/adjust things. After 5 minutes the temp with the burner on low was at 330 and climbing!

I saw this post using the needle valves to lower the gas flow, and also about blocking holes in the burner with screws, I'm going to try these.

Question: The electric unit has a 2" diameter dampened vent at the top, do I need a larger outlet vent in the top also?