Klose 20x36: How to keep 275 degrees or less for long smoke?

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offset1945

Newbie
Original poster
Aug 5, 2016
28
18
Greetings Everyone,

I've not posted in quite a while, I'm always reading and I know my question has been asked many times, but I want to ask given my pit specifics:
Klose 20x36 with 1/2 inch steel firebox @20x20x20

Link to BBQ Pit Calculator

According to the calculator, my firebox is 212%, so essentially twice as large.
According to the calculator, I need 1.6 air intakes, I, of course, have 2, so I have a slightly oversized air intake.
I am spot on with the length of the chimney.
Firebox to cooking chamber calls for 64 square inches, my math shows mine at 70 square inches.

So apart from the twice oversized firebox, I am very close to all other aspects of calculator specifications.

I have burned a lot of wood the last few years, mainly Post Oak.
Supplier logs are standard 18 inches.
I have a splitter and a miter.
I buy a half cord at a time.

After splitting on my part, I end up with pieces that are triangles of for example 5 inches by 3 inches by 4 inches @ 18 inches long ... I like to then make them about 14 inches long.

My issue, how is it even possible to burn wood and run a long smoke at no more than 275, or dare say even no more than 250 degrees?

I'm good close to 300, but it just does not seem possible to feed a fire that I can maintain long-term when shooting to stay below 275.

I know others who do this with lump they are burning on the side, but I am not asking about that ... I am asking how to do so feeding my firebox.

I can get these splits into any size shape needed, any combination thereof.
 
I regulate the temp in my Lang by the size fire I build, if I want to run at 225 I have to add smaller splits more often to a smaller fire. If I want to run at 280 I add larger splits but not as often to a larger fire.
Al
 
Thanks to you both.

daveomak daveomak ,
I've seen the discussion regarding adding the upper vents. I'm going to grind off the weld holding in the hinge pin and get it done. I'll send you some pictures before hand to discuss what size holes / how many.

SmokinAl SmokinAl ,
Can you give me a idea of exactly the size difference in splits?

Also, the lower / smaller the fire, how do you avoid a complete snuff out when adding a new split?

I can watch the pit hold 280 nicely for 30 minutes .... but if I wait that long, I'll have almost ash and no strong embers to ignite a new split.
 
SmokinAl SmokinAl ,
Can you give me a idea of exactly the size difference in splits?

Also, the lower / smaller the fire, how do you avoid a complete snuff out when adding a new split?

I can watch the pit hold 280 nicely for 30 minutes .... but if I wait that long, I'll have almost ash and no strong embers to ignite a new split.[/QUOTE]

First thing I do is start a fire & make a nice coal bed with charcoal, then start to add splits. The biggest thing you have to do is maintain that coal bed. It doesn't matter what size fire you are burning, you still need a good coal bed. I take normal size splits & split them again once or twice to make much smaller ones. I also chop them in half with my chop saw so they aren't as long. On a small fire the splits I add are smaller in dia. than a coke can, and about 8" long. On a bigger fire they would be about as big as a coke can & maybe 10-12" long. When I first got my offset I always built too big a fire & when trying to bring the temp down I would loose the coal bed too. It just takes a little practice & it will become real easy. Just keep an eye on the coal bed & add a split when it is starting to burn down. Sometimes a couple of real small splits are needed to bring the coal bed back, if you let it burn down too far. I also pre warm my splits on the top of the fire box so they ignite much quicker & you don't get all that white smoke.
Hope this helps!
Al
 
SmokinAl SmokinAl ,

This helped me a ton ... "On a small fire the splits I add are smaller in dia. than a coke can, and about 8" long. On a bigger fire they would be about as big as a coke can & maybe 10-12" long."

Smaller than I have been working with ... I've already run a few sets ... again the 'smaller than a coke can' really hit home as I've been typically much larger.

daveomak daveomak ,

Here is my FB door ... how many / what size do you suggest for the upper vents? ( main vents are 3"x5" ... box is 20"x20")

IMG_1056.JPG
 
Something similar to below.. Those air inlets will allow for the movement of heat without adding air to the fire.... Not unlike the fan on your forced air furnace... constant heat source with air movement...

Smoker Exh and Intakes 2.jpg
 
... I've made a few modifications / attempted improvements, some have been in place for a long time, a few new ones as a result of this thread.

Mod # 1
Extended stack to just an inch or so above grate level.
Did this when pit was new, has been in place for a long time.
Difficulty: Very easy on this pit, the stack is 4.5" O.D. and therefore I.D. was 4", so just ordered a nice piece of steel pipe with a 4" O.D. and jammed it up the stack from inside the cooking chamber.
Improvement factor: High - greatly improved draw, noticeable.

IMG_1076.jpg
 
Mod # 2
Nomex Gasket (felt) on Firebox Door.
A recent modification that I should have done years ago, does truly help seal up leaks.
It is VERY easy to see the results, no smoke spewing from the FB door.
Difficulty: Easy
Improvement factor: High

Personal note: There is a company that has a lock if you will on this market/product brand.
I myself ordering that brand.
I was less than impressed with my product having now seen other true brand name offerings since.
That company has simply registered a trademark for all things BBQ related.
Look for true Dupont Nomex, insist that the box/label says Dupont Nomex or Dupont Nomex/Kevlar.

img_2001.JPG
img_2002.JPG


 
Here is my FB door ... how many / what size do you suggest for the upper vents? ( main vents are 3"x5" ... box is 20"x20")

Brial, Sorry I just saw this... I would drill 2 each 1" holes... use a step drill....
That Nomex gasket stuff looks cool... very different from what I have seen... the rope stuff... It looks better for sealing..
 
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