Hi-Temp JBWeld repair

[johnmeyer]

Well, the stuff did hold up to drilling and machining, but the metal content proved to be a problem. Even though the resistance is quite high when measured with an ohmmeter, when subjected to 120V, it shorted (sparks!).

So, back to the drawing board to see if there is some other high-temperature (more than 500 degrees F) substance that dries hard (RTV won't work). There is some really exotic stuff, but I don't want to pay $100 to repair a $20 item. I'd get a new one at this point, but the reviews on the modern equivalent (this was built in 1977) are quite negative (the non-stick coating apparently flakes off into the food).

 

[radioguy]

If you're not too attached to the cord. Drill a hole in the side, attach some high temp wire to terminals, then splice a cord on the other end. It won't be pretty but it'll work.

RG

 

[johnmeyer]

That's a great idea! I'll see if I can find a cord and a grommet that can withstand the heat. My older appliances, like my 1948 waffle iron, all have permanently attached cords, usually with a cloth-like exterior.

I've pretty much given up trying to find a substance that will withstand the temperatures involved, and also be strong enough to support the two prongs.

I'll let you know if I am able to find the right sort of cord and grommet.

 

[gnatboy911]

Have you tried QuikSteel? I've used it before and it's awesome stuff. I did a quick Internet search and it claims it isn't conductive, and heat proof up to 500.

 

[johnmeyer]

I used the original JB Weld on my first attempted repair. It is supposed to be good to 500 degrees F. However, it crumbled. Since I've been using that stuff for 20+ years and never had this experience, I'm pretty sure it was caused by the heat. My conclusion, therefore, was that I need something that can go to a higher temperature than 500 degrees F. That's what led me to the JB Weld Extreme Heat product.

If I can find a power cord rated for use in a high temperature appliance, I think I'll try the excellent suggestion of simply running that directly into the appliance, and not bother with the old two-prong appliance cord. I just looked through my kitchen, and I have a full-sized deep fat fryer that has a permanent cord, as does my crock pot and also an old 1970s electric fondue pot.

 

[johnmeyer]

If you're not too attached to the cord. Drill a hole in the side, attach some high temp wire to terminals, then splice a cord on the other end. It won't be pretty but it'll work.

RG

I just want to thank you again for this suggestion.

I bought a high-temp cord that had two round lugs crimped on the end. I removed the two male power plug prongs from the fryer that I had re-mounted in the conductive JB Weld Extreme potting material (as I showed in the pic I posted). Once removed, I found a way to mount them internally on a plastic support rib on the bottom cover, just adjacent to where they stuck through the two mounting holes in the original configuration. I didn't need the prongs, and was just using the nut and male press-on connector so that I could still connect to the internal wiring without disturbing anything. However, the prongs didn't get in the way, and so to save the step of cutting them off, I just left them there.

I then enlarged one of the ventilation/drip holes in the base, snaked the cord through that hole, and attached each lug between the threaded end of the prong and the plastic rib. I used new nuts with star lock washers on both sides of the arrangement. The installation looks quite secure and (he says modestly) pretty professional. I think it is safe and will hold. The 1/2 inch of the external cord that is actually inside the fryer is completely isolated from the heating element by the rib and cannot possibly move anywhere near the heating element.

Everything looks great, but to make it a proper fix I still need to add a strain relief. I'm going to use some RTV to plug the hold and also attach the cord to the bottom of the base so it never ends up under the five "feet" that are molded into the base.

As a bonus, I now have a longer cord (seven feet) which means I no longer have to use an extension cord to reach the plug next to my BBQ (I always use the fryer outdoors to avoid odors and to eliminate having to clean up afterwards).

Great suggestion!

 

[johnmeyer]

I just came back to this thread because I wanted to link to one of the posts and realized that I never provided the final chapter to my Fry Daddy repair effort.

It all works perfectly. The RTV gasket material, which is designed to work with hot motor oil, is exactly the right thing for creating a flexible strain relief. The fryer works great and the longer cord is indeed a real bonus for me.

The only downside is that a permanently attached cord makes it harder to clean the unit. Even though it cannot be submersed, I do put it into a dry sink to fill with soap and water, and having the cord attached makes it tougher to fill and drain. No big deal. 

Again, I really appreciated the suggestion to fix it this way. I should get many years of additional use out of it, all for the investment of about $10 in parts and materials.