Fridge build pid questions

[mr.twister]

I’m closing in on finishing up my freezer smoker build but the pid controller stuff is confusing to me I have been looking into the Auber wsd-1200gph but I noticed it only goes up to 1440watts on 120 my dad has spare 1500 watt heating elements with the cheap little temp dial plug on the cord could I get the auber and it will only run it at 1440 or do I have to go to the auber AW-1520H that’s there 1800 watt controller to run thoes heating elements

 

[hoity toit]

I use the same element on my smoker. I used a PID to control a relay that turns the element on and off. If you use the Auber, use the 1800 w controller.

 

[tallbm]

I’m closing in on finishing up my freezer smoker build but the pid controller stuff is confusing to me I have been looking into the Auber wsd-1200gph but I noticed it only goes up to 1440watts on 120 my dad has spare 1500 watt heating elements with the cheap little temp dial plug on the cord could I get the auber and it will only run it at 1440 or do I have to go to the auber AW-1520H that’s there 1800 watt controller to run thoes heating elements

Hi there and welcome!

I too would recommend you go with a/the controller that supports 1800 watts. There is little chance of it overheating and being destroyed or catching fire due overheating since it can support operating at 1500 watts.

This is very much a case of using the right tool for the job and keeping your house/neighborhood from burning down is worth it :)

 

[mr.twister]

That’s kind of what I was thinking but it’s always better to double check thanks hoity toit. Another quick question, you said you went from heating element to a relay then to the pid. did you use the cord it came with that has the temp dial on it or a different one.

 

[mr.twister]

That’s kind of what I was thinking but it’s always better to double check thanks hoity toit and tallbm Another quick question, you said you went from heating element to a relay then to the pid. did you use the cord it came with that has the temp dial on it or a different one.

 

[radioguy]

Use the 1800 watt controller like #Tallbm recommends. It will run cooler and last longer since it is a heavier duty one. I used one of those manual frypan elements in my rebuild. Trust me a good PID controller makes a world of difference. What are you using for smoke generator?

RG

 

[Nefarious]

The heating element will not over heat if you run less power through it. It might be a problem if the controller had more power then the element can take, but not the other way around.

Using the less power controller will mean less heat and take longer to heat up, if you are going to use it at it's end limit. If you intend to use it at least then 1500 watts, they both will operate the same.

 

[mr.twister]

Awsome thanks guys and I have a smoke tube from Amazon, and was going to do the mailbox mod. Now time to talk the wife into letting me get the nicer controller

 

[hoity toit]

Hi there and welcome!

I too would recommend you go with a/the controller that supports 1800 watts. There is little chance of it overheating and being destroyed or catching fire due overheating since it can support operating at 1500 watts.

This is very much a case of using the right tool for the job and keeping your house/neighborhood from burning down is worth it :)

General rule of thumb is to size controller at 125% of the connecter load.

 

[hoity toit]

That’s kind of what I was thinking but it’s always better to double check thanks hoity toit. Another quick question, you said you went from heating element to a relay then to the pid. did you use the cord it came with that has the temp dial on it or a different one.

Yes I used the cord that came with it,... from the PID I fed the 120volts to a plug mounted on the side of the smoker so I could just plug the element in and if your element has a temp dial on it leave it on high and let the PID turn off/on. General rule of thumb is to size controller at 125% of the connecter load. Also makes it easy to replace the element should it ever go out. The PID i used is this one. Comes with a 40 amp relay. I just mounted everything in a metal box attatched to the smoker. pid on eBay 0-1200 degree

 

[Steve H]

The heating element will not over heat if you run less power through it. It might be a problem if the controller had more power then the element can take, but not the other way around.

The controller does not ramp up current. It is rated for max current of the element. You could have a controller rated for 2000 watts for a 1000 watt element. The controller rating is based on current the element will be drawing so it doesn't burn out the relay contacts. Ideally. You want the controller rated for 25% percent over max draw the element.

 

[Nefarious]

The controller does not ramp up current. It is rated for max current of the element. You could have a controller rated for 2000 watts for a 1000 watt element. The controller rating is based on current the element will be drawing so it doesn't burn out the relay contacts. Ideally. You want the controller rated for 25% percent over max draw the element.

I'm not sure what you are actually saying here.

The controller decides how much of the maximum current the element actually draws. One can turn the controller down to 10% and the element will heat accordingly. I can then have a controller of less power then the element max and the only issue will be, can one get enough heat from the element. Having less power in the controller will not burn out the controller or the element.

If one wants to maximize the power in the element, then one should have a controller rated at the max.of the element.

 

[Steve H]

I'm not sure what you are actually saying here.

The controller decides how much of the maximum current the element actually draws. One can turn the controller down to 10% and the element will heat accordingly. I can then have a controller of less power then the element max and the only issue will be, can one get enough heat from the element. Having less power in the controller will not burn out the controller or the element.

If one wants to maximize the power in the element, then one should have a controller rated at the max.of the element.

If you get a controller rated less then the element. It will send full voltage and current. And it'll work. It'll regulate from 0 to 100% to the rated element regardless the size of the controller. But will be short lived because the excess current going through its contacts will burn them out. If it's an SSR. It is liable to blow immediately.

 

[mr.twister]

Yes I used the cord that came with it,... from the PID I fed the 120volts to a plug mounted on the side of the smoker so I could just plug the element in and if your element has a temp dial on it leave it on high and let the PID turn off/on. General rule of thumb is to size controller at 125% of the connecter load. Also makes it easy to replace the element should it ever go out. The PID i used is this one. Comes with a 40 amp relay. I just mounted everything in a metal box attatched to the smoker. pid on eBay 0-1200 degree

Ok I thought I had an idea on what I wanted but after looking at what you go now I like that idea and your way is considerably cheaper than this but I don’t have eBay so now to hunt something like that on Amazon but I’m not finding output wattage for that style of pid box or I’m a lot more confused than I thought

 

[hoity toit]

Ok I thought I had an idea on what I wanted but after looking at what you go now I like that idea and your way is considerably cheaper than this View attachment 646113 but I don’t have eBay so now to hunt something like that on Amazon but I’m not finding output wattage for that style of pid box or I’m a lot more confused than I thought

This Inkbird PID on Amazon will work for you. Inkbird ITC-106VH PID