That looks like a very successful conversion to me.
I see you have plenty of temp gauges on the side, how much did they differ from top to bottom?
That burger looks fantastic!
Al
Hi I found with the few test seasoning runs with charcoal and propane that with no modifications the majority heat would go up and out of the fire box and straight out of the chimney ( obvious poor design ). all the gauges except for the door gauge would read pretty close to each other ( with no food in the main chamber ) hottest would be the lowest gauge. The OEM door gauge would run 50 degrees cooler than my installed gauges. and all of these gauges would be different from my iGrill 2 probes placed on the two uppermost racks ( where I would do most of the smoking )
The water pan is supported on the lowest rack point just above the firebox mounting point. while testing I found out if I wrap part of the rack with aluminum foil to cause the heat go around and under the water pan it works much better. now once warmed up all of my gauges seem to match pretty close. It seems if you ran it without any other gauges other than the factory installed gauge and no modifications you would think your at the proper temperature but in reality it would be much hotter at the firebox side of the food and have cold spots throughout the smoke chamber.
It was so unbalanced the first session with charcoal for a two hour run The water pan was still full because the heat just went past the pan.
I am not sure what would have happened if the smoker was full of food without adding the aluminium foil But I think I would not have been happy with the smoker. While running it yesterday I tried to keep in mind for every recipe for smoking the same food everyone has their ideal time and temperature one recipe for example the hamburgers varied quite a bit. Oklahoma Joe's called for 270 I think for one hour while many other sites called for 225 also for an hour. I think the difference is the pit in question. some people measure at grate temperatures other measure at the OEM gauge.
It is confusing to say the least.I could have drilled my pit with 100 holes for a 100 gauges but what matters to me is the temperature at the grate the food is on. ( which changes as soon as you put food on it LOL )
I really only installed these gauges where I did because I knew upfront what would happen without modifications. But I needed them there to dial in what mods I needed to make and perhaps still need to fine tune. I will say if I did not take the time to properly seal this smoker I would still have my food on the smoker since it would have leaked like a screen door in a submarine.
This is a great pit for the money and just what I wanted The ability to burn charcoal and wood with the option for propane and wood for smoke.
It is much easier and I think better for our taste and physical restrictions to run propane.
The one thing that still needs work is the valve- orifice that I bought from Tejas smokers. it is super sensitive a micro fraction of a turn makes a large change in temperature. Once it is set it is very stable.
I just wish the valve itself was a needle valve where it needs at least one complete turn to make a temperature change.
I plan on adding a good quality needle valve just before the orifice valve to see if I can get better control of the adjustment.
If I did not mention it anyone doing a conversion like this needs to consider how hot the orifice and line gets at the burner which is why I added the 18" brass flared extension ( where the rubber line meets the copper extension I only get ambient temperatures ) at the orifice and anywhere near it it can get very hot causing the rubber line to fail and burst into flames.