Fine tuning Mypin PID T-Series Question

[ryans01z28]

So I switched out thermocouple and I still get the same results. Not sure what’s going on

 

[dward51]

If you changed the target temp, I would redo the auto tune from scratch. Once you push auto tune and start the cycle, just walk away and don't touch it. Sometimes an auto tune cycle can take a long long time (well over an hour).

Also did you change anything else in the setup menu (Other than the offset?).

 

[ryans01z28]

If you changed the target temp, I would redo the auto tune from scratch. Once you push auto tune and start the cycle, just walk away and don't touch it. Sometimes an auto tune cycle can take a long long time (well over an hour).

Also did you change anything else in the setup menu (Other than the offset?).

I can’t remember if I changed anything else. I don’t think I did??? I redone the auto tune 3-4 times already. Twice with the new thermocouple. I waited till the green light went out. Doesn’t make scene. It seemed to be working fine until I auto tuned it. I thought I’d just auto tune it another time just in case. That’s what I get I guess. I ordered another pid in case I need to switch them out. I could always get the one from my smoker to I suppose. Pm me your email and I’ll send you a video if you want to see what it’s doing.

 

[dward51]

Step through the menu and verify the "control type" setting is set to "HEAt". The value should show up as "oUd" on the display top and "HEAt" on the bottom. If it shows "COOL" change it (up/down arrows). Also make sure the input device type is set to what type of temp sensor you have. Top display value for this setting is "InP" and bottom will be either K for K type, J for J type, E for E type, S for S type, Pt for Pt100 RTD type or Ln for Cu50 RTD type sensors. J, K and Pt100 are the most common.

If that's not it, step through each of the setting and write them down and post them.

 

[ryans01z28]

Well I auto tuned it this morning at around 7 and just came in the house and it seems to be holding temp right were I want it so idk what to say. Maybe it needed more time or something. I can drop the desired temp 10* and the light still flashes

 

[ryans01z28]

al1-104*
AO1-1
Al2-200*
AO2-2
PUF-92.6*
Inp-y
P-3.82
I-367.5
D-91.87
Oud-heat
Hys-1.0
Ctl-001
Trl-0.0
Trh-100.0
Bsl-pid
Lcy-000

 

[dward51]

What type of thermocouple are you using?

 

[ryans01z28]

What type of thermocouple are you using?

K type. It seems to be holding temp. I have eggs in there now so I hope it works. Does everything look right?

 

[dward51]

al1-104*
AO1-1
Al2-200*
AO2-2
PUF-92.6*
Inp-y
P-3.82
I-367.5
D-91.87
Oud-heat
Hys-1.0
Ctl-001
Trl-0.0
Trh-100.0
Bsl-pid
Lcy-000

That offset value is way screwed up. This is indicating your display temp is 92.6* off from the real world temp. Also the InP - y value is a K type thermocouple. If the thermocouple is configured as the wrong type the temp range is usually skewed. What type of thermocouple are you using?

 

[ryans01z28]

That offset value is way screwed up. This is indicating your display temp is 92.6* off from the real world temp. Also the InP - y value is a K type thermocouple. If the thermocouple is configured as the wrong type the temp range is usually skewed. What type of thermocouple are you using?

This is what I’m using

 

[ryans01z28]

I also tried this one but it seemed screwy

 

[dward51]

K type. It seems to be holding temp. I have eggs in there now so I hope it works. Does everything look right?

If you have eggs in there and it appears to be working correctly. I would not touch a thing. Also after the eggs are done, I would step through the menu and write down every setting (if different from what you posted earlier). At least you know that set of values is working. But that offset value is way weird (again, if it's working - leave it alone for now).

 

[ryans01z28]

Yea it seems to be working so idk. Why is that value weird?

 

[ryans01z28]

I had to open my incubator to grab my thermometer in there and after I closed it the temp hit 107* which it should never be at so there is something that is not right with this pid yet

 

[dward51]

You said the offset was 92.6. That means you are changing the display value by 92.6 degrees so it will match the real world temp measurement.

How an offset value works is if your pit is at 100* and the display reads 90* you want a positive 10.0 offset to raise the display value to match the real world pit value. If the pit was 100* and the display read 110* you would need a -10.0 offset to lower the display value to match the real world pit value. Offset is just an adjustment to the display (think of it as display calibration). It should not affect how the PID actually performs.

Basically a positive 92.6 offset would mean your display was reading 7.4* when the pit temp was 100*. That is why I said it is weird/off.

Double check the temp probe and see what codes are stamped on the code. Not like someone never shipped the wrong part in an order before and J vs K thermocouples will not read correctly if the PID is set for the wrong type.

If it settles back down from the 107* spike, I would leave it alone until this run of eggs is completed. It just may be a spike from where you opened the unit.

 

[JckDanls 07]

If it were me... I would just do a default reset and start over with Dave's guidance ...

 

[dward51]

Hey, I just had a thought.

I think this design would be super stable and it would be using known technology that is plug and play. Basically an insulated outer box that contains a flat tray of water with a sous vide unit to control the water (tray would need to be deep enough for the sous vide to work). Eggs sit on top above the water on some sort of rack and add an air circulation fan. Concept would be the water is a larger thermal mass that would tend to hold a steady temp. A sous vide unit like the Anova Bluetooth model is about $100 and known to be super precise (0.01 degree variance from set point once at temp). Unless the moist air environment would be a problem, it should work. Just add a small tube and viewing port so you can add water as needed without actually opening the insulated container.

Essentially you could take a el-cheapo igloo cooler and modify it with a raised rack for your egg holder and mount everything else in the top of the cooler. In theory water at x temp in a somewhat sealed environment would heat the air and eggs to x temp and hold it there. Again I know squat about hatching eggs, so humidity might be a deal killer.

When not running a hatch of eggs, you can cook with it!!!

Something like this

 

[ryans01z28]

You said the offset was 92.6. That means you are changing the display value by 92.6 degrees so it will match the real world temp measurement.

How an offset value works is if your pit is at 100* and the display reads 90* you want a positive 10.0 offset to raise the display value to match the real world pit value. If the pit was 100* and the display read 110* you would need a -10.0 offset to lower the display value to match the real world pit value. Offset is just an adjustment to the display (think of it as display calibration). It should not affect how the PID actually performs.

Basically a positive 92.6 offset would mean your display was reading 7.4* when the pit temp was 100*. That is why I said it is weird/off.

Double check the temp probe and see what codes are stamped on the code. Not like someone never shipped the wrong part in an order before and J vs K thermocouples will not read correctly if the PID is set for the wrong type.

If it settles back down from the 107* spike, I would leave it alone until this run of eggs is completed. It just may be a spike from where you opened the unit.

I know how the offset works I guess and I don’t see anything wrong there?? I just adjust to correct it like you explained.

As far as a stamp on the probe I do not see one on the other probe I have and the chances of me getting 2 wrong probes are slim to non. They are k type probs. It did settle down after I decreased the temp 20* and brought it back up. There’s something not right but idk what it is. I never did hook up my pid from my smoker but I did order a new one.

 

[ryans01z28]

Hey, I just had a thought.

I think this design would be super stable and it would be using known technology that is plug and play. Basically an insulated outer box that contains a flat tray of water with a sous vide unit to control the water (tray would need to be deep enough for the sous vide to work). Eggs sit on top above the water on some sort of rack and add an air circulation fan. Concept would be the water is a larger thermal mass that would tend to hold a steady temp. A sous vide unit like the Anova Bluetooth model is about $100 and known to be super precise (0.01 degree variance from set point once at temp). Unless the moist air environment would be a problem, it should work. Just add a small tube and viewing port so you can add water as needed without actually opening the insulated container.

Essentially you could take a el-cheapo igloo cooler and modify it with a raised rack for your egg holder and mount everything else in the top of the cooler. In theory water at x temp in a somewhat sealed environment would heat the air and eggs to x temp and hold it there. Again I know squat about hatching eggs, so humidity might be a deal killer.

When not running a hatch of eggs, you can cook with it!!!

Something like this

Kinda looks something like this. I have a electronic humidity controller that turns a heated humidifier on. I’m waiting for a cool mist one because I think that will be a Better option. I’m able to hatch 213 eggs a 1 time but just have 1 rack in right now. The rack is set up on a timer to turn them every 2-3 hrs

 

[dward51]

I know how the offset works I guess and I don’t see anything wrong there?? I just adjust to correct it like you explained.

Ok, now I'm confused. You are saying you had to adjust the PID display by 92.6 degrees to get it read right on the PID display? That is a huge problem.

It is starting to sound like you have a flaky PID. That's not unheard of. Believe it or not they even knock of MYPIN units in China. Do you have another PID to try? You are not the first person I've talked with that found they had a bad/flaky MYPIN PID. They are a little more money that a ebay MYPIN, but it's hard to beat the Auber Instruments models (they are in the USA in Kennesaw, GA) and they stand behind their products and have very good tech support.