Electric suggestion?

[flyhigh123]

I’ve had my mes 40 for a long time now.

I’d like to upgrade but been out of the loop on best new models.

Previously I was considering the smokinit 3d wifi.

What other models are good for electric?

Thanks!

 

[BigW.]

What's your price range and size need? What do you usually smoke? Limitations on MES that you like to see improved? Smokinit appear to be great smokers. The more detailed your question, the better answers you will receive.

 

[LoydB]

I upgraded to a Smoke Daddy pellet smoker after decades of MES. I love it, but it’s an order of magnitude more expensive.

 

[normanaj]

Have you considered doing the simple rewire and adding a PID controller?

Just doing this will vastly improve your MES' performance.

 

[tallbm]

I’ve had my mes 40 for a long time now.

I’d like to upgrade but been out of the loop on best new models.

Previously I was considering the smokinit 3d wifi.

What other models are good for electric?

Thanks!

To directly answer your question, I think SmokinIt 3D is the one I liked when researching in the past.

HOWEVER as normanaj brings up, you can do a simple rewire on your MES, buy a PID controller and make it perform like 25x better than anything you could buy for less than $1000. The cost of rewiring and slapping a PID controller on it is as little as $160.

To me the best electric smoker you can get is a free or like $40-50 MES40 that you rewire and slap a PID controller onto. You already have the MES40 so you are more than halfway there :D

Ask any questions you have about this idea and you can read up more on the simple rewire here (cut ends off 4 wires, use 2 wire nuts to make 2 whole wires from the cut ends, done rewiring for use with a PID controller)

MES Rewire Simple Guide - No Back Removal Needed!!!

Lately I've seen a number of posts about guys wanting to rewire their MES. I had wanted to post a quick and simple guide for those out there that are curious or those that simply need to rewire but need a little assistance. Well here goes. Disclaimer: When messing with electrical equipment...

www.smokingmeatforums.com

 

[Norwester55]

One thing to consider regarding the Smokin-It models with the integral PID controllers is that if something goes wrong with the controller in the middle of a smoke, you're dead in the water. Buying the analog version and adding a PID gives you the option of using the analog controller if you have problems with the PID plus you'll save a few bucks. Its a very simple wiring job. I added a rocker switch to make it easier to switch to the analog. The SS Smokin-It case drills out pretty easily with cobalt bits.

 

[Lonzinomaker]

Second what Norwester suggests. I bought my SI #3 with the intent of adding a PID 3 years ago. Still haven't bought a PID yet cause I decided it wasn't needed for my style of smoking.

 

[Inscrutable]

Not cheap, but I did love my Smokin-It #3 analog for what it was/does. I wanted more high temp versatility and a smaller herd, so sold to a friend (who loves it). I never saw the need for a PID for what I cooked.

 

[cmayna]

Yes for PID rewrite of your MES40, unless you have other issues with your smoker. If so, what are they?

 

[zwiller]

PID is a great idea and do not forget you can always use it for another smoker. Around here used SmokinIt/Tex are commonly on FB Marketplace quite cheap. To me, it ultimately depends on what you run mostly. If sausage and ham then MES+AuberPID but say if brisket/butts/chicken then a pellet grill might be a better move. I consider pellet grills hybrid electric. I am VERY happy with my Weber Smokefire coming from the MES.

 

[bill1]

What's the peak temp you want to cook at? Electrics are limited by both the common 15A wall circuit and the type of wall insulation they use. A better controller does nothing to address those limitations.

 

[cptnding]

One thing to consider regarding the Smokin-It models with the integral PID controllers is that if something goes wrong with the controller in the middle of a smoke, you're dead in the water. Buying the analog version and adding a PID gives you the option of using the analog controller if you have problems with the PID plus you'll save a few bucks. Its a very simple wiring job. I added a rocker switch to make it easier to switch to the analog. The SS Smokin-It case drills out pretty easily with cobalt bits.

Forgive my ignorance as I know nothing about installing a PID controller but where does the PID connect to the wires in your diagram? I have never seen one much less used one. I like the idea of being able to switch back to analog. Age and environment are not kind to electronics.

 

[normanaj]

Forgive my ignorance as I know nothing about installing a PID controller but where does the PID connect to the wires in your diagram? I have never seen one much less used one. I like the idea of being able to switch back to analog. Age and environment are not kind to electronics.

Once the rewire is done the MES power cord is plugged into the PID.The PID has it's own power and a temp probe you place in the smoker,it will monitor temp in the smoker and send or cut power to the element in the smoker as needed to hold set temp.

 

[PulledPorkSandwich]

I've been very happy with my Smokin-It model 2 analog. It's smaller (and cheaper) than the model 3 but adequate for my needs. Temperature swings of 30-40 degrees are common, but if I set the box temp so that the average is close to my target box temp, results are very good -- good enough for me to avoid the PID conversion others have mentioned so far.

Max (average) box temperature tops out at around 265, and the lowest achievable temp seems to be around 140 ish, so "cold" smokes are not possible without the PID modification.

 

[old sarge]

There are three all stainless steel models. All are expensive but reliable. Smokin-it, CookShack, and SmokinTex. I have a Smokin-it and Cookshack. Utterly reliable. No problems or iffiness. Just solid performance. I have no experience with SmokinTex but they have been around for many years.

 

[flyhigh123]

One thing to consider regarding the Smokin-It models with the integral PID controllers is that if something goes wrong with the controller in the middle of a smoke, you're dead in the water. Buying the analog version and adding a PID gives you the option of using the analog controller if you have problems with the PID plus you'll save a few bucks. Its a very simple wiring job. I added a rocker switch to make it easier to switch to the analog. The SS Smokin-It case drills out pretty easily with cobalt bits.

I finally pulled the trigger on the 3. I plan to get the PID wifi auber. based on your diagram, whats the best way to wire it? Should I bypass the top analog dial entirely which would allow higher smoking past the 250?

 

[Norwester55]

I finally pulled the trigger on the 3. I plan to get the PID wifi auber. based on your diagram, whats the best way to wire it? Should I bypass the top analog dial entirely which would allow higher smoking past the 250

Wired the way the diagram shows, with the rocker switch you can use either the analog controller or use the PID controller which will allow the higher temps. No need to bypass the analog dial and then if something goes wrong with either controller you have the option to switch to the other.

 

[Inscrutable]

The analog is limited to 250 knowing there will be excursions potentially 25-50* higher. Their PID limit is a bit higher knowing the excursions will be minor. If you bypass and run your own Auber I wouldn’t go any higher than their own PID controller ceiling … the unit/insulation is not designed or rated for higher temps.

 

[flyhigh123]

Wired the way the diagram shows, with the rocker switch you can use either the analog controller or use the PID controller which will allow the higher temps. No need to bypass the analog dial and then if something goes wrong with either controller you have the option to switch to the other.

Is there a rocker switch you can recommend?

 

[tallbm]

Is there a rocker switch you can recommend?

Just to chime in on a switch. Avoid all plastic rocker switches as they are cheap trash from China and melt down in no time no matter what they are rated for... I tell you this from experience.

Get a good heavy duty switch like this (I've used this one) and it will never melt down on you (40A single pole toggle breaker) it comes from China as well but is not the super cheap melt down stuff:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H947FZC/ref=twister_B0BP776HF2?_encoding=UTF8&th=1

For like $1 more here is a 50A switch that comes from Mexico (I use this one as well):

https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-Circuit-Breaker/dp/B000K2O0LI/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=120v%2Bmarine%2Bbreaker%2Bswitch&qid=1701048945&sr=8-10&th=1

I got so fed up with 20A rocker switches melting down I started going this route and never looked back. They just work :D