Converting Digital MES to Manual

[DrewWard]

Has anyone ever converted their digital MES over to just simple manual controls? I’ve had mine for a few years and don’t remember the exact model (larger of the stainless & glass ones Academy sells with the digital controls on the top rear). It’s mostly performed well with no problems but during a hurricane last year the plastic around the buttons crumbled, allowing water to get into the control panel beneath.

I just took it apart to see if it looked worth messing with and there‘s enough rust and corrosion on the circuit board from staying wet that I don’t think it’s repairable. Also: the bluetooth and other features never worked enough to bother with in the first place, so all I’ve ever used the control pad for is setting the temp and monitoring the temps for the smoker and probe. I can do that with a separate probe and analog thermometer just fine.

What I’m wondering is whether I can just somehow get rid of the control pad altogether and operate the smoker with a simple generic electric oven control (temperature dial, either thermostat that comes with the controls or wire it into the existing smoker thermostat, and wires out to kick the element on and off as the temperature calls for.

There’s no way to replace the Masterbuilt parts for less than at least half the price of a new smoker, but generic analog electric oven controls can be had off of eBay and such for $5-10 all day long.

Just figured I’d ask as I can’t imagine I’m the first one to consider going this route.

 

[tallbm]

Has anyone ever converted their digital MES over to just simple manual controls? I’ve had mine for a few years and don’t remember the exact model (larger of the stainless & glass ones Academy sells with the digital controls on the top rear). It’s mostly performed well with no problems but during a hurricane last year the plastic around the buttons crumbled, allowing water to get into the control panel beneath.

I just took it apart to see if it looked worth messing with and there‘s enough rust and corrosion on the circuit board from staying wet that I don’t think it’s repairable. Also: the bluetooth and other features never worked enough to bother with in the first place, so all I’ve ever used the control pad for is setting the temp and monitoring the temps for the smoker and probe. I can do that with a separate probe and analog thermometer just fine.

What I’m wondering is whether I can just somehow get rid of the control pad altogether and operate the smoker with a simple generic electric oven control (temperature dial, either thermostat that comes with the controls or wire it into the existing smoker thermostat, and wires out to kick the element on and off as the temperature calls for.

There’s no way to replace the Masterbuilt parts for less than at least half the price of a new smoker, but generic analog electric oven controls can be had off of eBay and such for $5-10 all day long.

Just figured I’d ask as I can’t imagine I’m the first one to consider going this route.

Hi there and welcome!

Short answer is yes.

You have a few options. You can go the route you are talking about. The main thing to know is that you will be wiring around that circuit board which is shot anyhow.

1.) To do exactly as you are talking about you can wire in a Rheostat with a knob just like it was an oven, provided it is working with the correct voltage. daveomak has done this.

2.) Your other option is to do a simple rewire where the plug of the MES feeds power to the heating element (cut ends off 4 wires and wire nut to make 2 whole wires).
Then you can buy something like an Auber PID controller.
-Plug the Auber into the wall, the MES into the Auber.
-Drop the Auber temp probe down into the smoker vent and clip to the bottom rack. Punch in your set smoker temp into the Auber.
-The Auber PID controller will now feed power on/off to the MES plug until it heats up and hits and holds the set temp.

This would make your smoker like 100X more precise and better working than when it was brand new. Many of us have done the PID conversion and kicked ourselves for not doing it sooner.
Nothing better then never having to worry about temp swings when doing sausage, bacon, jerky, etc. Also its great to know we can actually hit our max temps. Many new MES never even hit max 275F smoker temp.

I hope this info helps :)

 

[SecondHandSmoker]

tallbm has you covered.
Though, if it were my smoker, I would go for the PID controller. Yes, it is a little more pricey than a rheostat type control, but a PID will give you solid temps with little variation.

 

[DrewWard]

Hi there and welcome!

Short answer is yes.

You have a few options. You can go the route you are talking about. The main thing to know is that you will be wiring around that circuit board which is shot anyhow.

1.) To do exactly as you are talking about you can wire in a Rheostat with a knob just like it was an oven, provided it is working with the correct voltage. daveomak has done this.

2.) Your other option is to do a simple rewire where the plug of the MES feeds power to the heating element (cut ends off 4 wires and wire nut to make 2 whole wires).
Then you can buy something like an Auber PID controller.
-Plug the Auber into the wall, the MES into the Auber.
-Drop the Auber temp probe down into the smoker vent and clip to the bottom rack. Punch in your set smoker temp into the Auber.
-The Auber PID controller will now feed power on/off to the MES plug until it heats up and hits and holds the set temp.

This would make your smoker like 100X more precise and better working than when it was brand new. Many of us have done the PID conversion and kicked ourselves for not doing it sooner.
Nothing better then never having to worry about temp swings when doing sausage, bacon, jerky, etc. Also its great to know we can actually hit our max temps. Many new MES never even hit max 275F smoker temp.

I hope this info helps :)

Hey! Thanks man!

I hadn’t even considered going that route. I have to say one of the other reasons I was considering going analogue was that I was really hoping I could extend the temperature range a decent bit higher and lower than what it came capable of. Sometimes you could use more than 275 for a short time.

Where all are the controllers and such that actually turn the burner on and off?

The wires from the circuit board (Aside from the meat probe and door switch which were easy to ID) are all far too thin to have much power going through them, so they must just be going to a beefier control board somewhere inside the unit.

On the back side all I found was what looks to be power in from the main cord and then some connectors where it sends that power somewhere inside.

The back panel of my smoker is all riveted and I didn’t want to risk tearing it up trying to get that thin sheet of metal off without knowing for sure there’s anything behind there I need to access.

 

[SecondHandSmoker]

Now that I remember, we also have a forum member, JC in GB , who manufactures PID controllers as well.

 

[holyfeld]

I took the MES controller out of the circuit many years ago. Replaced with an Auber PID controller. https://www.smokingmeatforums.com/threads/mes-40-model-20070512-temperature-problems.151864/

Basically put spade connectors on a power cable, disconnected the existing incoming wires from the element, plugged in the new cable, put the Auber temp probe in the chamber, and then plugged the new cable in the back of the Auber. Auber plugs into the outlet.

 

[normanaj]

tallbm absolutely has you covered.

 

[tallbm]

Hey! Thanks man!

I hadn’t even considered going that route. I have to say one of the other reasons I was considering going analogue was that I was really hoping I could extend the temperature range a decent bit higher and lower than what it came capable of. Sometimes you could use more than 275 for a short time.

Where all are the controllers and such that actually turn the burner on and off?

The wires from the circuit board (Aside from the meat probe and door switch which were easy to ID) are all far too thin to have much power going through them, so they must just be going to a beefier control board somewhere inside the unit.

On the back side all I found was what looks to be power in from the main cord and then some connectors where it sends that power somewhere inside.

The back panel of my smoker is all riveted and I didn’t want to risk tearing it up trying to get that thin sheet of metal off without knowing for sure there’s anything behind there I need to access.

There is a panel on the bottom/underneath side of the smoker (well 2 panels but we only care about one of them).
The panel with the circuit board is usually in a black plastic box these days.
When you get to that you will find Two (2) 16awg sized braided wires connecting into the circuit board.
You will also find two (2) smooth 16awg sized wires hooked into the circuit board where one is white and one is black, these come from the plug.

The simple rewire is to inplug those 4 wires and cut the ends off. Then wire nut a braided to a smooth so that the 4 wire ends make 2 completed wires. Always braided to smooth. Done!

There is a safety limit rollout switch still wired into the circuit that has a max cuttoff limit of 305F degrees halfway up the smoker where it is located. You should be able to push over 275F with a rewire but undrestand that if that switch detects 305F it will switch off and cut power to the heating element.

I'm not telling you to wire around or replace the safety switch so with a higher limit switch, but those are things that are possible with proper guidance and/or understanding.

No matter what, your insulation is not rated to handle much more than 325F temps for an extended period of time so that is the real limit unless u want to burn down your smoker and the house/county :)

My post here shows how to do the simple rewire so that the plug now feeds power to the heating element while keeping the safety switch in the mix. At this point u can use a PID controller to feed power to it:

MES Rewire Simple Guide - No Back Removal Needed!!!

Lately I've seen a number of posts about guys wanting to rewire their MES. I had wanted to post a quick and simple guide for those out there that are curious or those that simply need to rewire but need a little assistance. Well here goes. Disclaimer: When messing with electrical equipment...

www.smokingmeatforums.com

Here is a picture of the circuit board underneath the smoker:

I hope this info helps :)

 

[DrewWard]

There is a panel on the bottom/underneath side of the smoker (well 2 panels but we only care about one of them).
The panel with the circuit board is usually in a black plastic box these days.
When you get to that you will find Two (2) 16awg sized braided wires connecting into the circuit board.
You will also find two (2) smooth 16awg sized wires hooked into the circuit board where one is white and one is black, these come from the plug.

The simple rewire is to inplug those 4 wires and cut the ends off. Then wire nut a braided to a smooth so that the 4 wire ends make 2 completed wires. Always braided to smooth. Done!

There is a safety limit rollout switch still wired into the circuit that has a max cuttoff limit of 305F degrees halfway up the smoker where it is located. You should be able to push over 275F with a rewire but undrestand that if that switch detects 305F it will switch off and cut power to the heating element.

I'm not telling you to wire around or replace the safety switch so with a higher limit switch, but those are things that are possible with proper guidance and/or understanding.

No matter what, your insulation is not rated to handle much more than 325F temps for an extended period of time so that is the real limit unless u want to burn down your smoker and the house/county :)

My post here shows how to do the simple rewire so that the plug now feeds power to the heating element while keeping the safety switch in the mix. At this point u can use a PID controller to feed power to it:

MES Rewire Simple Guide - No Back Removal Needed!!!

Lately I've seen a number of posts about guys wanting to rewire their MES. I had wanted to post a quick and simple guide for those out there that are curious or those that simply need to rewire but need a little assistance. Well here goes. Disclaimer: When messing with electrical equipment...

www.smokingmeatforums.com

Here is a picture of the circuit board underneath the smoker:View attachment 629454

I hope this info helps :)

This is awesome! Thanks, man!