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Bypassing the Factory Controller

kbarnes12

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Joined Jan 24, 2021
My old analog 30”, that I used an Auber Instruments controller on, finally crossed the rainbow bridge, so my most generous wife insisted I get a newer bigger smoker. I ended up getting a Masterbuilt MB20071819 model. It is very basic, but that is what I wanted since I intend to use my Auber controller with it.

Can anyone here tell me which wires I must disconnect and put a jumper on in order to bypass the MB controller and use my Auber controller instead? I have attached a picture of the bottom where I believe this surgery needs done.
MB Bottom.jpeg


Thank you in advance.
 

smokerjim

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i'm no help here but if you pm tallbm i'm sure he could help you out.
 

cmayna

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As I'm sure you did with your old MES, you found which wires went to the element. Disconnected those wire from the element and attached a new power cord directly to the element? The new power cord would then plug into the Auber.

Odds are it is the black and red wires, but as I said above, I would go to the element and find which wires are connected to it.
 

dr k

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The black power cord and red braided element wires terminated at the black cube relay cut and wire nutted together will do it. You can leave an inch or more lead to make pigtails and leave connected to the relay to put back together to use the stock controller if ever needed. The white neutral power cord and blue braided ( other element wire at the cable tie) are already terminated together at the PCB. But i dont like the crappy chinese alum lugs. Cut and nut those two together, leaving lead to reconnect if needed for stock controller. Do just the relay wires to test and plug in to heat. The wire in the element juction box may be black vs blue to jump from the thermal switch to the element. One guy put a switch at the relay to use the stock controller or the PID. A direct line like cmayna mentioned also bypasses the safety switch. Newer therms have a temp range to alert you so that would make a hardwire directly to the element easy, fast and have an alert when too hot/too cool if PID controller or sensor fails. Your pick.
 

tallbm

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My old analog 30”, that I used an Auber Instruments controller on, finally crossed the rainbow bridge, so my most generous wife insisted I get a newer bigger smoker. I ended up getting a Masterbuilt MB20071819 model. It is very basic, but that is what I wanted since I intend to use my Auber controller with it.

Can anyone here tell me which wires I must disconnect and put a jumper on in order to bypass the MB controller and use my Auber controller instead? I have attached a picture of the bottom where I believe this surgery needs done. View attachment 481652

Thank you in advance.
Hi there and welcome!
The guys are giving u great info.

Disclaimer: As with any electrical stuff be sure to check and make sure things are done correctly or get someone who can do it for you like an electrical professional.

Checking Wires:
With that said you can confirm by getting a multimeter that has a continuity setting.
  • Open panel to heating element and disconnect the wires from the heating element.
  • Come here to circuit board and disconnect the thick red and blue braided wires.
  • Use the multimeter on continuity setting to see which wire end at heating element matches the wire end of the red or blue braided wires at the circuit board.
  • When you do this you know for sure that those red and blue wire ends go to the heating element without any break in continuity
Simple Rewire Steps:
Should the red and blue braided wires run to the heating element (they should) then the rewire is simple.

  • Cut ends off smooth black, smooth white, braided red, and braided blue wires
  • Splice smooth black to red braided
  • Splice smooth white wire to blue braided
  • Done
FYI, the red and blue wires are basically interchangeable to be spliced with either smooth black or smooth white.
DO NOT splice smooth white to smooth black and red to blue. This is the only way you can mess up the wiring splicing combo hahaha.

To test you can plug in and watch the heating element heat up BUT UNPLUG once you notice it is heating. DO NOT LEAVE PLUGGED IN.
Once the rewire is done if you leave it plugged in the wall then the smoker will heat up nonstop until it burns down which is bad.

Let me know if this makes sense and let us know how things turn out :)
 

kbarnes12

Newbie
23
44
Joined Jan 24, 2021
The black power cord and red braided element wires terminated at the black cube relay cut and wire nutted together will do it. You can leave an inch or more lead to make pigtails and leave connected to the relay to put back together to use the stock controller if ever needed. The white neutral power cord and blue braided ( other element wire at the cable tie) are already terminated together at the PCB. But i dont like the crappy chinese alum lugs. Cut and nut those two together, leaving lead to reconnect if needed for stock controller. Do just the relay wires to test and plug in to heat. The wire in the element juction box may be black vs blue to jump from the thermal switch to the element. One guy put a switch at the relay to use the stock controller or the PID. A direct line like cmayna mentioned also bypasses the safety switch. Newer therms have a temp range to alert you so that would make a hardwire directly to the element easy, fast and have an alert when too hot/too cool if PID controller or sensor fails. Your pick.
So you are saying to splice the red wire marked with and R in the picture below and the black wire marked with B in the picture? I am not real electrically savvy and want to make sure I am getting it right. I am also attaching a picture of my element connections if that helps.
MB Bottom To Modify.jpg
Masterbuilt Back.jpeg
 

kbarnes12

Newbie
23
44
Joined Jan 24, 2021
Simple Rewire Steps:
Should the red and blue braided wires run to the heating element (they should) then the rewire is simple.

  • Cut ends off smooth black, smooth white, braided red, and braided blue wires
  • Splice smooth black to red braided
  • Splice smooth white wire to blue braided
  • Done
FYI, the red and blue wires are basically interchangeable to be spliced with either smooth black or smooth white.
DO NOT splice smooth white to smooth black and red to blue. This is the only way you can mess up the wiring splicing combo hahaha.
Thank you! This is exactly what I was wanting, what to do and what not to do.
 

tallbm

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Joined Dec 30, 2016
Thank you! This is exactly what I was wanting, what to do and what not to do.
Yeha that pic of your heating element shows me that the red braided runs from heating element all the way to circuit board. The blue braided will run to safety rollout limit switch. At that point they run a black braided from the safety rollout limit switch to the heating element. They switch colors at the safety switch.

What I mentioned in my post will work like a charm :)
 

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