Binders

[DougE]

Binders are just an ingredient, usually undetectable except when a sausage fails due to fat-out or overdry in their absence. They absolutely have their place.

I know binders "bind" more moisture into the sausage, but do elaborate on how they prevent fat out, because I have not seen much at all of their fat binding properties.

 

[Dave in AZ]

I know binders "bind" more moisture into the sausage, but do elaborate on how they prevent fat out, because I have not seen much at all of their fat binding properties.

Binding does not refer solely to water absorbsion, but more to creating protein/fat/water emulsions or mixes where chemical BONDS form between the protein and the fat. The most common method is using the water molecule that grabs and bonds almost everything (hydrogen bond, what allows water to dissolve most things). Just like soap creates a bond with water on one molecule end, and a bond with oils/lipids on the other and thus allows you to wash off dirt, many of these proteins or carbohydrate chains allow hydrogen bonding of fat/water/protein to help keep the fat from rendering out, as well as water.

I'll just quote Marianski a few times:
3. Binders - are used to improve water and fat binding. They can be of animal or plant origin (soy, wheat and milk, egg white). Carbohydrate based binders such as flour and starch contain little protein but are able to bind fat and water. They also fit into the filler category. Binders are not used for volume increase, but to improve texture and are usually added at 1-3%. Popular binders are soy protein isolate and milk caseinate.
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Protein is the binder for water and fat in your product. One pound of properly extracted protein binds four pounds of fat and/or moisture through the cooking process.
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Protein and particles such as salt, protein, sugar, parts of fiber, muscles, and collagen create a liquid which coats each fat particle with a thin layer of soluble protein. Those coated fat particles combine with water and meat and the emulsion is created. The leaner the meat, the more protein it contains. If little or no fat is used, there will not be any real emulsion, and the proteins will simply hold the texture of the sausage together. Due to the high protein content (80-90%) soy protein isolate is a very strong emulsifying agent and will help to make quality liver and emulsified sausages (hot dog, bologna). In order to take full advantage of soy protein isolate capabilities, it should be cut in a bowl cutter.
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Milk protein (caseinate) is another binder that promotes a strong emulsion by interacting with water and fat particles.
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1. Meat extenders - extend expensive meat proteins with cheaper plant proteins, like soy beans. Non-fat dry milk, sodium caseinate (milk protein) and egg white fit into this category, too. The main purpose of using meat extenders has been to lower the cost of a product. Extenders are usually added at 1-3%. They are capable of holding water and bind fats as well.
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Flours and starches make great fillers, water absorbers and binders. Flours such as corn, potato, wheat, soy and rice are in common use in the Western world.
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Anyways, just a few quotes etc, hope some of that was helpful even as just a reminder maybe ;)

 

[SherryT]

I saw "Rusk" in a recipe for British Banger sausage what is Rusk?

Of the sausages I've made, bangers and sweet Italian have been my favorite and I've made them more than any other.

As for rusk, I had to make my own or pay through the nose for it online...check out Scott Rea on YT.

 

[DougE]

Having fat bound by protein extraction is the only way to bind fat, but it has thermal limits. Once you get past the temp where the fat will melt, no additions will stop fat out. Adding fillers that suck the fat up before it bleeds out of the casing may keep the fat from bleeding out, but all your fat is now tied up in the filler rather than having a nice fat distribution throughout the sausage.

 

[SherryT]

I tend to agree. I tried an Irish sausage from Rytek Kutas' book and it called for 10 cups of breadcrumbs for 10# of meat. It seemed like a lot but I'd never made it so I went with 5 cups for 5#. It was terrible, more like bread stuffed cases. Had to be a typo or misprint.
As for a binder, I've been using about a half cup of Soy Protein Concentrate fo a 5# batch for a while now. I really don't know if it's needed but it doesn't seem to hurt anything and my sausages aren't crumbly so I'll probably continue. I only make fresh.

The banger recipe I use calls for 3% rusk by weight (5lbs would be 2.4oz of rusk) and it's not "bready" at all...surely, that HAD to be a misprint!

 

[indaswamp]

Good discussion. I have been following this but have been out of town and could not dedicate the time for a thoughtful post until now.
I agree with @SmokinEdge that phosphates are king when it comes to binders because of the chemistry involved when they are added to meat. They raise the pH (most of them do) and this enhances the water binding properties of the denatured proteins.
Smoke sausages stuffed in regular 32-35mm hog casing that are smoked between say 100 and 160*F will benefit greatly from the addition of both the 10% added water and a binder. A sausage smoked in this temp. range will lose 10% water upon completion of the smoking to pasteurization temperature of 136*F. I have verified this by weight....before and after smoking. So you are basically losing the added water in the mince. The finished sausage will be juicier and that is not even up for debate.

 

[indaswamp]

Binders have very different functions and binding ability. Phosphates are #1. They get a bad name because back in the day before the USDA regulations, producers use to use as much phosphates as they could get away with. They would add enough so that 100# of meat paste would hold 60# of water...thus increasing profits substantially. But it was unethical, thus the government stepped in to set consumer standards. This is likely how phosphates got a bad name, but used properly, they enhance both the flavor profile and juiciness of a finished sausage.

 

[Dave in AZ]

@indaswamp
I haven't used phosphates consistently, though I do have some cold phosphate, and tspp. I'd say I use NFDM and potato starch mostly, but more out of inertia. Based on the comments in the thread, I will start trying the phosphates more. I've seen several folks here post it was a game changer for them.

I like doing side by side comparisons, so hopefully will try that soon. What sausage would you say I will see the best change in such a comparison? Polish smoked, fresh brats?

 

[indaswamp]

Incidentally, this is why most commercial producers use a liquid smoke/hot water shower system to cook the sausages. It is faster, gives a marketable smoke flavor, and most important-the sausages do not lose any weight because no evaporation takes place in a 100% humidity environment with the use of a binder. But, a real smoked sausage over wood flame tastes so much better when compared side by side....in fact, it is not even close IMO. So I will sacrifice the loss of 10% weight for a real home made smoke sausage becaue I'm not selling it by the pound, I'm eating it....and I'm going for full flavor.

 

[indaswamp]

@indaswamp
I haven't used phosphates consistently, though I do have some cold phosphate, and tspp. I'd say I use NFDM and potato starch mostly, but more out of inertia. Based on the comments in the thread, I will start trying the phosphates more. I've seen several folks here post it was a game changer for them.

I like doing side by side comparisons, so hopefully will try that soon. What sausage would you say I will see the best change in such a comparison? Polish smoked, fresh brats?

Smoked.

 

[Dustin Dorsey]

What about high heat milk powder vs. low heat? I had no idea there was a difference and I was just buying stuff at the grocery store. Do you guys think it really matters?

 

[boykjo]

here's a discussion we had back in 2015

Calling all sausage makers...Sausage binders. Why we use them and why we dont. Your thoughts and res

I open this discussion to better understand of why some sausage makers use binders and some sausage makers don't. Would like to hear what everyone has to say . Joe

www.smokingmeatforums.com

 

[clifish]

Binders have very different functions and binding ability. Phosphates are #1. They get a bad name because back in the day before the USDA regulations, producers use to use as much phosphates as they could get away with. They would add enough so that 100# of meat paste would hold 60# of water...thus increasing profits substantially. But it was unethical, thus the government stepped in to set consumer standards. This is likely how phosphates got a bad name, but used properly, they enhance both the flavor profile and juiciness of a finished sausage.

Do you have a specific brand or link to the phosphates?

 

[indaswamp]

Do you have a specific brand or link to the phosphates?

I buy in bulk local from a butcher supply shop. 5# for $12.50...comes in a gallon zip lock. It is tri-sodium poly phosphate (TSPP). They fill the bags out of a 55 gallon barrel that they get from a supplier. No idea the brand.

One thing I will mention is that water solubility for some phosphates in cold water is slow, TSPP included. It is recommended to mix into 100*F water to dissolve, then add ice to cool, then you can add the cure #1 to the liquid.

 

[zwiller]

Incidentally, this is why most commercial producers use a liquid smoke/hot water shower system to cook the sausages. It is faster, gives a marketable smoke flavor, and most important-the sausages do not lose any weight because no evaporation takes place in a 100% humidity environment with the use of a binder. But, a real smoked sausage over wood flame tastes so much better when compared side by side....in fact, it is not even close IMO. So I will sacrifice the loss of 10% weight for a real home made smoke sausage becaue I'm not selling it by the pound, I'm eating it....and I'm going for full flavor.

This is a good point to open up because I think any discussion of binders needs to also address adding liquid and more specifically how much. While I think it's good to limit adding liquid but adding liquid to sausage seems taboo to some. I've done some crazy stuff like adding 30% water to things for giggles and was shocked it didn't fail and turned out better than I thought it would. I think more liquid works well in emulsified stuff and gives a softer mouthfeel that is welcome.

STPP is a part of my whole muscle injections for "hot smoked" stuff like pork butt. It is pretty crazy to see in action for the first time. ZERO juice in the pan, just fat. My PP yield is like 80%. Granted you can always save the juice and defat and add back but I'm injecting for flavor so might as well use it.

 

[indaswamp]

One point I'll add to the discussion is that if you make a sausage using pineapple, pickled jalapenos, or any other acidic element, then you will get much better results using phosphates which will counter act the lower pH from those ingredients. Higher pH= better bind....(6.0~6.3 being optimum)

 

[Dave in AZ]

Do you have a specific brand or link to the phosphates?

First, various sellers use various proportions of several phosphates, and you can't get them to nail down percentages or even which actual chemicals usually. There are 6 or so I've seen listed in meat science articles. Several are Common in meat mixes including disodium phosphate, disodium diphosphate, and sodium tripoly phosphate (STPP). Each chemical has different properties and risks. I like to know exactly what I'm adding and be able to read the SPDS sheet and online info, but have found it impossible to get solid info on any brand sold.

A popular brand was Amesphos, but store owner died, his theingredientstore.com is in probate. His son is selling same stuff now, here is a thread on it:

Did The Ames Company aka The Ingredient Store close? I can't locate Ames Phos.

The business founded by Joe Ames Sr. was taken over by Joe Jr a few years ago and I used Ames Phos in my corning brine (beef and pork butts) and also in the @daveomak injectable cure for my hams. I can't find the store online.

www.smokingmeatforums.com

Walton's sells a mix they call Cold Phosphate. I was unable to get the actual chemical content when I emailed them, they said they'd try from manufacturer but never did. You can purchase "cold phosphate" in 1 and 5lb bags, and STPP in 50lb buckets.

Older folks here will recall the #1 cleaning agent on the planet, TSP or Tri Sodium Phosphate. Used to be in every household for scrubbing walls, pots etc. Still sold at home depot. As I mentioned above, the chemical ability of a "soap" is to bond oils at one end and water at the other, allowing water to wash stuff clean. This is also how binders in food science work, so it should be no surprise these are in the same chemical family. However, don't buy TSP and use in food! ;)

 

[DougE]

Out of curiousity, what did people do before it was easy to process sausage at near freezing temperatures? Did they wait until winter or just have bad sausages. I could see a place like Kreuz grinding a bunch of meat at room temp back in the day. I've had fat smear out on me so I definitely go the near frozen route.

Here is what happens when you grind meat at higher than optimal temps, from @Cajuneric



Most of the dry cured meats and sausages we enjoy today were the result of safely preserving meats for later consumption before there was such a thing as refrigeration and was normally done in cool/cold weather.

 

[Dave in AZ]

@DougE Thanks for linking, that really is the best video to convince folks how using good basic practices, keeping meat cold, and not fudging on it, will create superior products.

I love that video because so many folks post about having texture issues, crumbly sausage, fat out, etc, but when they compare their temperature diligence to that video... so much is explained ;)

It also makes folks who don't keep their process chilled between steps, reassess binders. Maybe think, "Hmmm, maybe a bit of NFDM might be some insurance against my temperature practices!" I know I've run out of time to rechill after a grind, maybe meat is 37f, but I don't have 30 min to rechill. And so have decided to add some NFDM, mix good and stuff.

Not every daybis endless time, not every cook session is perfect, sometimes binder is a good useful tool in the box to help keep quality up ;)

 

[DougE]

I think my position is that binders will not cover up a multitude of sins. You want great sausage, follow good sausage making practices. Binders can enhance the quality of a well made sausage, but I don't see them as a shortcut to getting there.