Are there any house Painters on the forum?

[zwiller]

Bunch of things will do it but agree 80G is pretty coarse and prime suspect. Other factors are be lack of adhesion of top coat, humidity, dust or other contamination.

60-80G is like shaping grit to me, pretty much exterior only for big chips and nasty stuff. Usually ROS/power. 150-200G is my go to for typical paint by hand to feather stuff and remove dust nibs.

LOL forgot I was in beast mode and posted those pics... Here's a shot of the finished. HUGE thank you and shout out to Rich chopsaw for the architectural trim guidance!

 

[chopsaw]

That came out nice for sure .

 

[paulgeorge]

I have to paint all the trim in our new to us house, and was wondering if the product "Flood Floetrol" works and if it is worth buying?

If so, how much do you add per gallon?

I'm using Benjamin Moore "Ben" interior acrylic paint and primer Semi Gloss.

Thanks for the pro tips, I'm rolling the old doors until we replace them and painting the door, window trim, and base boards with fine Chinex brisle brushes.

Thanks a bunch.
Dan. painter and decorator london

Just want to ask people's thoughts on repainting a property that has very colourful interior, as I'm not sure how much extra this will cost. I only managed to get very rough estimate so far and I can't DIY. For anyone with experience, anything to consider? I just don't want to get caught off-guard with the pricing later on.

 

[zwiller]

Going from one extreme to another is always more labor/coats. First office was walnut stained paneling to white. 5 coats and still was not perfect. Have gone cream to hunter green was 4 coats. All top end paint too. Best solution is to get owner to agree some midway point that is less extreme so labor is typical. If by colorful you mean say vibrant stuff like yellow etc, it won't be too bad, it's the bright to dark (tint to shades) and vice versa. Black to white being the worst. FIL was a master at working with people on this. Lighter colors "turn white" very fast. For that job I would say let's do that color but let's try a shade or 2 darker for first coat and see how you like it. When customers want dark, the opposite. A level or 2 lighter. The key being they realize it's the same color, you're just adjusting the intensity.

 

[normanaj]

P paulgeorge If you're painting the entire place the same color get a GOOD quality primer like Sherwin Pro-Block or Ben Moore Fresh Start and have it tinted to the color of the finish coat,if you're doing rooms in different colors this applies to each room and if everything is going to be a light color then you can go with white.Paint and primer in one sounds great in theory but doesn't usually apply in the real world. Proper prep like sanding, caulking,fixing of defects like holes and gouges should be addressed with the proper filler for the surface to be repaired.

Any good painting contractor should tell you these things and include it in his estimate.

 

[zwiller]

Will have to try primer for that one day. Was taught primer was only for raw wood/fixing possible adhesion issues but taht could save some serious dough nowadays.

While I got ya normanaj what finish would you go with on the newer trimmed wall style? Normally I would say satin but looks basically flat. Have not run any of yet and redoing my office lobby.

 

[normanaj]

lol

Will have to try primer for that one day. Was taught primer was only for raw wood/fixing possible adhesion issues but taht could save some serious dough nowadays.

While I got ya normanaj what finish would you go with on the newer trimmed wall style? Normally I would say satin but looks basically flat. Have not run any of yet and redoing my office lobby.

View attachment 689854

Generally you wouldn't need to prime previously painted sound surfaces but with significant color changes it really helps especially on walls.

I'm personally not a big fan of flat on anything other than ceilings. In a commercial situation like rentals etc flat is good because it's easily touched up especially after patching holes and the like.

On a wall like that an eggshell/satin on the panels and a semi on the styles and rails always looks good but that's a personal preference. Any paint with a sheen is recommended for cleanability and durability.

 

[paulgeorge]

Going from one extreme to another is always more labor/coats. First office was walnut stained paneling to white. 5 coats and still was not perfect. Have gone cream to hunter green was 4 coats. All top end paint too. Best solution is to get owner to agree some midway point that is less extreme so labor is typical. If by colorful you mean say vibrant stuff like yellow etc, it won't be too bad, it's the bright to dark (tint to shades) and vice versa. Black to white being the worst. FIL was a master at working with people on this. Lighter colors "turn white" very fast. For that job I would say let's do that color but let's try a shade or 2 darker for first coat and see how you like it. When customers want dark, the opposite. A level or 2 lighter house painters. The key being they realize it's the same color, you're just adjusting the intensity.

thank you so much for your suggestion

 

[Dressyst]

I had a similar situation a few years back with some old peeling paint and wood that needed proper sanding and priming. What made a big difference was hiring folks who actually understood how to handle older homes. I ended up going with https://craftsmanssealpainting.ca/ and they really knew their stuff—prep work, finish, all of it. They took their time and the paint still looks solid after a few seasons.

 

[normanaj]

Been painting professionally for 30+ years.

I don't recommend Floetrol. You'll get better open time with Latex Paint Extender and if thinning is required then add water in small increments as needed. Once you add the extender it never needs to be added again,it's one and done for the life of the paint you've added it to. A quart of extender will do what gallons of Floetrol is supposed to do.

Chinex is another one people pay way to much for,sounds really cool but has zero advantage over a quality nylon brush. It's all in the firmness or lack of it.

 

[forktender]

Thanks guys, I actually finished the project I was working on quite a while ago, it turned out great. The guy that lived next door to me at my old house stopped by to give me a few tips on the painting, he has been a painting contractor for many yrs. When I was done, he came by for a beer, and was really impressed with the results. I was really O.C.D. with the painting, the edging is all even, and the trim work laid down nice and flat. He said that he would hire me in a second, I told him that he couldn't afford to pay me enough to paint every day.
I actually enjoyed the process, but my back can't handle the work these days after three spinal fusions. I still have the kitchen, and two bathrooms to remodel and paint, not looking forward to doing it.

I really appreciate the info and tips.
Dan.

 

[mageerauld]

I have to paint all the trim in our new to us house, and was wondering if the product "Flood Floetrol" works and if it is worth buying?

If so, how much do you add per gallon?

I'm using Benjamin Moore "Ben" interior acrylic paint and primer Semi Gloss.

Thanks for the pro tips, I'm rolling the old doors until we replace them and painting the door, window trim, and base boards with fine Chinex brisle brushes.

Thanks a bunch.
edmonton painting company

Yes, Floetrol works with Benjamin Moore “Ben” interior acrylic semi-gloss paint and is worth buying if you want smoother trim with fewer brush marks. How much to add: 4–8 ounces per gallon of paint.