Are there any house Painters on the forum?

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forktender

Master of the Pit
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Jun 10, 2008
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NORCAL
I have to paint all the trim in our new to us house, and was wondering if the product "Flood Floetrol" works and if it is worth buying?

If so, how much do you add per gallon?

I'm using Benjamin Moore "Ben" interior acrylic paint and primer Semi Gloss.

Thanks for the pro tips, I'm rolling the old doors until we replace them and painting the door, window trim, and base boards with fine Chinex brisle brushes.

Thanks a bunch.
Dan.
 
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This is what I found in the interlink:

Add approximately 8 oz. (1/2 pint) per gallon of paint. 2. If pint is thick, or in extreme temperatures, more Floetrol may be gradually added, up to 16 oz.

Used for water based paints applied in severe weather areas. Severe not really defined. Heat, water, both??? Reduces brush marks.

Hope this was helpful...

JC :emoji_cat:
 
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Been painting for 30+ years.

Floetrol is junk. I highly recommend getting latex paint extender which you can get at almost any BM dealer or Sherwin. It simply extends the open time of water based paints so you don't get lap marks or dry spots. Just follow the instructions on how much to add,this can be adjusted depending on conditions but don't over use it.

And if you're rolling the doors back brush them...itll look better. Generally speaking your brush strokes go the lengths of the stiles and rails and if they have panels your strokes should be vertical. On large surfaces like doors this is where the extender really helps.
 
Also paint and primer in one is fine on previously painted surfaces that are sound but you need to sand first with 220 or 150 grit depending how good or bad the previous paint job is. Any bare or crappy areas should be primed with a good quality primer. If any of the wood is new or completely bare you have to prime first and then sand before applying a top coat .

Also any holes should be filled before sanding and any open joints should be caulked before applying top coat.
 
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Also paint and primer in one is fine on previously painted surfaces that are sound but you need to sand first with 220 or 150 grit depending how good or bad the previous paint job is. Any bare or crappy areas should be primed with a good quality primer. If any of the wood is new or completely bare you have to prime first and then sand before applying a top coat .

Also any holes should be filled before sanding and any open joints should be caulked before applying top coat.
The doors are flat panel, and were stained 60 yrs ago. I was planning on using Killz primer on them before painting them I have a gallon of it already, should I roll then brush, then sand? And should I wipe them down with mineral spirits before priming? Or is the Killz good enough? Everything is sanded, caulked and nail holes filled except the door flats. I've been taping, texturing and sanding and caulking for almost two weeks now...fun, fun, fun!!!:emoji_laughing:
Been painting for 30+ years.

Floetrol is junk. I highly recommend getting latex paint extender which you can get at almost any BM dealer or Sherwin. It simply extends the open time of water based paints so you don't get lap marks or dry spots. Just follow the instructions on how much to add,this can be adjusted depending on conditions but don't over use it.

And if you're rolling the doors back brush them...itll look better. Generally speaking your brush strokes go the lengths of the stiles and rails and if they have panels your strokes should be vertical. On large surfaces like doors this is where the extender really helps.
Awesome!!!


How much paint extender pre gallon? it's dry and 80* here this week.

Thanks a bunch.
Dan.
 
Norm will do ya right . Especially on what products to use .
I like progress , before and after pics if you're so inclined .

I just did the inside of mine . Best thing I did was buy a small step up painters scaffold .
Worth it's weight in gold . Beats the heck out of a ladder and works for stagging paints , rags and brushes / paint trays .
 
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I've painted TONS. Lots for money but mostly for myself because most "painters" can't paint for s*** and the good painters are way too expensive. FIL was a painting contractor and his technique was to thin trim coat down with water. I mean like milk thin. Looks almost sprayed when done. MAkes cutting a snap too. With Norm, roll then backbrush doors but recently got a sprayer and plan to fool with that. Nice call on the Kilz but HOLY CRAP the smell. I got RIPPED priming my first house with my FIL. Top to bottom Kilz whole house interior 90F+ day LOL.

normanaj normanaj Right now painting the outside of my office and tried a Zinssers primer called Peel Stop. WOW. Impressive game changing stuff.
 
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Norm will do ya right . Especially on what products to use .
I like progress , before and after pics if you're so inclined .

I just did the inside of mine . Best thing I did was buy a small step up painters scaffold .
Worth it's weight in gold . Beats the heck out of a ladder and works for stagging paints , rags and brushes / paint trays .
I have a small taper's scaffold, prob the same type of thing. I find myself using a 3 stair, not wrung, step stool which has a fold down paint bucket shelf with holes to hold rollers brushes, 5in1 and putty knifes, I like it because it has wide steps, standing on ladder rungs absolutely kills my back these days.
I'll post up a few pic's when I'm done, I've been taking progressive pic's to show friends.


I forgot how much I hated drywall, taping, texturing and patching drywall and painting.

It's been almost 35 yrs since I have done anything like this. I used to work for a drywall contractor, paint contractor and Carpenter contractor when I was MUCH younger. My father was a General contractor growing up, I worked for a lot of his subs. I retired last yr from the Plumber's and Fitter's union, so I've done a bunch of construction. I just don't care for it these days after three spinal fusions. I'm getting it done, but it's taking me much longer than it use to. We just got into this house, and I'll be redoing the inside and out completely the next yr, prob two yrs before it's completed.
Thank God there it's paid for, or I couldn't afford to do most of this.:emoji_laughing:
Dan.
 
I've painted TONS. Lots for money but mostly for myself because most "painters" can't paint for s*** and the good painters are way too expensive. FIL was a painting contractor and his technique was to thin trim coat down with water. I mean like milk thin. Looks almost sprayed when done. MAkes cutting a snap too. With Norm, roll then backbrush doors but recently got a sprayer and plan to fool with that. Nice call on the Kilz but HOLY CRAP the smell. I got RIPPED priming my first house with my FIL. Top to bottom Kilz whole house interior 90F+ day LOL.

normanaj normanaj Right now painting the outside of my office and tried a Zinssers primer called Peel Stop. WOW. Impressive game changing stuff.
Both Z prime and Killz will light you up big time when used inside, I hate the stuff, but it works great.

I should've hired out all of this, but I hate paying for what I can do myself, even if it kills me. LOL!!!
 
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We have done tons of painting over the years, just finished both full outside and inside of the new house. Sound prep as noted above (including the right primer) and then good paint and applicators (what every you use).

The next thing is to setup an account to get your paint it will save you huge. As an FYI, we used SW Emerald inside and out along with the Emerald Urethane Trim Enamel for the doors and trim...Trying to save the extra cost isn't worth the invested time.... For the exterior, we also went with vinyl safe color mixes (ie no black pigments) to reduce surface heat buildup since we have a large west facing area.

And fully agree with chop, we got a rolling painting scaffold as well.....double money in saved time!
 
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Since Dan is too chicken to post pics (JK LOL)

Just finished cleaning up. Before, mid (primer is tinted/ANOTHER trick FIL gave me) and after (less than 1 hours ago). Still unsure of the color change but DONE with white. OMG the idiots that caulked and painted over the years... 80% of my work was removing that BS and STILL not happy.

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I haven't got that far yet, and I just tested our trim with 90% rubbing alcohol then Painters solvent and its oil base paint. So back to the paint store for some oil base trim paint and a jug of Penitrol. FUN, FUN, FUN!!!
 
Since Dan is too chicken to post pics (JK LOL)

Just finished cleaning up. Before, mid (primer is tinted/ANOTHER trick FIL gave me) and after (less than 1 hours ago). Still unsure of the color change but DONE with white. OMG the idiots that caulked and painted over the years... 80% of my work was removing that BS and STILL not happy.

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The prep work is killing me, I'm going on a week and a half.
Brutal!!!
 
I've been working on it 4 to 7 hours a day, dreading the painting worse than anything. People used to ask me why Plumbers and fitters make so much money out here? My answer was because nobody wants to do that sh!t on their free time!!!

The same applies to all trades, tradesmen and women I guess.

Did I mention how much I hate painting?
 
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I have to paint all the trim in our new to us house, and was wondering if the product "Flood Floetrol" works and if it is worth buying?

If so, how much do you add per gallon?

I'm using Benjamin Moore "Ben" interior acrylic paint and primer Semi Gloss.

Thanks for the pro tips, I'm rolling the old doors until we replace them and painting the door, window trim house painting contractor, and base boards with fine Chinex brisle brushes.

Thanks a bunch.
Dan.
Has anyone ever dealt with this. i finished a house last week and went today to touch up. It wasnt much and i put a light on it and damn. The painted backsanded the primer with 80 grit paper. it looked like a cat run up and down the walls and ceilings. There are grooves dug in it
 
Has anyone ever dealt with this. i finished a house last week and went today to touch up. It wasnt much and i put a light on it and damn. The painted backsanded the primer with 80 grit paper. it looked like a cat run up and down the walls and ceilings. There are grooves dug in it
Using 80 on an interior just might be the problem.

Is it new or old work? Are you referring to trim or walls or both? With those answers I can be much more specific in my answer(s).
 
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Has anyone ever dealt with this. i finished a house last week and went today to touch up. It wasnt much and i put a light on it and damn. The painted backsanded the primer with 80 grit paper. it looked like a cat run up and down the walls and ceilings. There are grooves dug in it
That's why I always trust the pros when it comes to painting. I couldn't do it by myself. Living in Hawaii, I always use the services of Oahu Interior Painting whenever I need some painting done. It's tempting to try and save a few bucks by DIY-ing it or hiring the cheapest option, but in the long run, it often costs more time and money to fix shoddy workmanship.
 
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