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Update: Had zero issues. Didn't even get the welding blanket. MES came right up to temp and held the entire cook. Obviously lost temp when I had to open and swap racks, but came right back after closing the door. Probably cost me some time overall, but no big deal. Auber PID is awesome.
Tha you for the reply! I replaced the element also. Plugged it in, heated up instantly. Un plugged it and hooked up a PID controller i built, dropped the probe through the smoke vent on the side wall, set it to 200° F, the initial swing was 10° either side of target which makes sense since there...
...shutoff valve at the beginning of the gas line in case of flameout. There will also be a bypass around the solenoid valve controlled by the pid with a needle valve to have a small flame constantly so wont need a pilot. Thinking about a second needle valve before the solenoid valve in case I...
...not even be fed power.
Now, you could do some fancy wiring with a switch, etc. etc. to be able to switch between a rewire configuration for a PID and to run the stock circuitry BUT I would not recommend it as once you go to a PID you go to Ferrari performance and switching back to Golf cart...
Here is the cord pictures and the second photo is the heating element wiring. This is is my second smoker and have decided to try an use this one instead for my pid
Hi everyone, I have been very busy with building a new smoker, wood structure, PID controlled, electric assisted, because the old Bullet bit the dust and I returned it to its Maker.
Size is 50x50x120cm, opening roof, on hinges, on the bottom is a fan assisted round resistance 2000w that blows...
The pid is an Inkbird. Can’t remember which one. It just overshoots when I raise the temp but then evens out and runs good until I raise the temp again.
...worked well and was heating for about 7 minutes and then the heater element started arcing turned red and is now open."
Everything was working, PID was set at 225 F and controlling the heater. When the temp reached about 105 F ( approx 7 minutes ) I heard a loud buzz and through the front...
You could certainly buy the analog version and in the future add an Auber PID, there's a full tutorial for rewiring the analog for adding an Auber on the Smokin-It website and it looks amazingly simple.
I ended up separating everything out as follows:
* I use the Smokin-t #3 as a chamber to hold the meat.
* I use an Auber PID to control the temperature that is accurate to < 2 degrees +/-.
* I also purchased an Supllueer two stage external smoke generator which is used specifically for my smoke.
That’s actually why I have the Inkbird. I used to do quite a bit of brewing. Never had the overshoot problems because heating water isn’t nearly as fast. I’m getting close to getting it tuned right. Seems to be more of an issue at lower temps…
Thanks.
The pid would be temporary mount. I would like to sit it on top but I made it with the cords coming out the bottom. Was made for a different purpose.
Thought about maybe using a French cleat picture hanger.
...space is definitely important. I have a wild idea that I can convert one to electric, so hoping to not have to buy one brand new for that. They seem like they’re made durable enough to last awhile, and the hopper would make a decent PID enclosure so I wouldn’t have to buy a separate box for that
...corrosion free and secure. Any looseness will cause arcs and sparks like you experienced. Not sure how you fabricated to cord that goes from the PID to the element. Sounds like the PID is still putting out good voltage, so you're element is open, and can easily be replaced. Now, the other...
Hi there and welcome!
Good work on the smoker, it's looking great!
Are you wanting to permanently mount the PID or just be able to ensure it sits well on/against the smoker?
I ask because most of us have PID controllers we can easily remove from the unit. My current PID sits on top of my...
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