Wanna build a vertical out of this.........

[reloadmike78]

Hey gang, I am wanting to build a vertical out of this and looking for any ideas/examples that can help me out.  I am going to put it on a cart and add shelving/storage for it.  What do you think?  The tank is 24in by 54in.

Thank you in advance

I was thinking of something like this.  Pardon the elementary drawing, but best I could do!  I don't know how to use those other 3-d drawing programs!

 

[forluvofsmoke]

Hmm...getting the doors to seal up tight after making cut-outs could be a challenge. The heat from standard cutting methods can warp the arc of the steel if you get in too big of a hurry. Some heating and re-shaping may be needed to get the proper fit.

BTW, looks to be a vehicle propane tank...I'd plug all the side ports and fill 'er up with water and keep the water running into it before you make a cut. A plasma cutter would be the safest route to go, as you wouldn't be injecting oxygen into the cut from a torch head. Man, I hate the thought of cutting into a fuel cylinder, myself.

Be careful, and cover all your bases before you make a cut.

Judging by the lower access door configuration, I'm assuming charcoal/lump fired, possibly with a water pan?

Have you considered a reverse flow horizontal? You'd need a side fire box, but...if you have access to hardwoods for fuel, they make great stick burners and cook evenly...

Eric

 

[reloadmike78]

Thanks for all the input, I plan on having a professional do the cutting for me, low and slow like the cooking.(With plenty of soap and water) He has done quite a few before. I plan on cutting the hinge side first, then placing and welding the hinges.  Cutting the top and bottom and welding on the strapping, and then cutting the"front" to prevent warping.  I have thought of the RF-H with SFB, but I think that's more than I want to get into for my first one.  I would like to it to be a quasi UDS type build with charcoal and water pan, but with easier access.  Building a deflector/chip pan to go over the coals as well.  Looking to keep the space required for storage/deck space down.  I think we can accomplish it, although I won't find out until we start cutting.

 

[SmokinAl]

Sounds like a great build, will be following this!

 

[meateater]

Looks like a plan. 

 

[gunny r]

Looks like a good plan to me. I found a circular saw from Sears in their tool catalog that is made for cutting metal. Runs about $120.00 but very few if any sparks and has a catcher that catches about 99 % of the chips. It is advertised to cut like 100 yards of steel before the blade needs to be replaced. Dummy me said, why not cut some stainless steel with it.  Bad idea, ruined the blade so I had to buy a new blade. It does work wonders when cut regular though.

 

[forluvofsmoke]

Looks like a good plan to me. I found a circular saw from Sears in their tool catalog that is made for cutting metal. Runs about $120.00 but very few if any sparks and has a catcher that catches about 99 % of the chips. It is advertised to cut like 100 yards of steel before the blade needs to be replaced. Dummy me said, why not cut some stainless steel with it.  Bad idea, ruined the blade so I had to buy a new blade. It does work wonders when cut regular though.

I hope you're not thinking about cutting into an LPG tank with this saw. It's still a safety issue due to the heat alone...if the temps get high enough, the vapors will auto-ignite if oxygen is present. When cutting, sparks from a saw blade or abrasive cutting wheel/disc or slag from torch/plasma cutting are nothing more than super-heated particles of metal which are more than hot enough to ignite the vapors. If they are introduced into the proper conditions of air/oxygen and fuel vapors....

Blade run times will vary on thickness of the sheet or stock as well as the type of alloy. Mild steel (carbon) is the softest and easiest to work. Most forms of alloys labeled as stainless can wreak havoc on conventional equipment, as you learned. Aluminum, cast iron, mild steel and stainless all have their own beneficial characterists, and each carries differing requirements for methods and equipment for fabrication/repair work.

If I wanted to do this type of work regularly (cutting metal in hazardous environments), I'd invest in a wet-cutter suitable for steel...either rotary or disc...maybe one of each...that's just me...better safe than crippled or dead.

Eric