Stainless cook chamber build Reverse Flow

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kingddemo

Fire Starter
Original poster
Jul 21, 2014
37
11
Indianapolis, Indiana
           I've been researching build details for a few months since I picked up this water filter tank.  It is 304 SS, 30" diameter X 55" long, 3/16" thick.  36944.83 cubic inches.  I've built a firebox 27.5 X 24 X 24 from 1/4" steel plate.  This is 122% of the recommended size.   I have made the 1/2" thick door end 2" bigger all around to have a place to attach the jacketting over the insulation. The opening from the FB to the CC is 155.76 sq in, 27" long  8  3/4" tall with a    1  1/2" grease dam.  There are 6  FB intakes 2  1/4 X 3 on the door.  I scored some SS 1/8" diamond plate & made the intake sliders from that stock with 3/16" spacers welded to the guides.  My chimney will be 6" dia. X 30" long.  (24" is recommended).  I'll post pics of progress so far.  This might take a while to finish, but I'm a detail oriented machinist/welder, and there's no need to rush something that will last a long time.            
 
Finally got time to insulate and weld the 1/8 steel jacket on the firebox. Used 2' X 4' pieces of 2" thick mineral wool insulation. 3 pieces worked out just right.
 
Has anybody thought about putting some vent holes on the bottom of the jacket to allow airflow from expansion & contraction due to the repeated heating & cooling?
 
I had some 20" pipe that I originally planned on being my firebox, but it was too small. I cut 2 pieces of it 6" long to be the wheels. I cut the centers from 2 old trailer wheels & trued them up on the lathe. I'm using 1/2" pipe for the spokes. In order to center it all up, I cut the pipe 1" short & put in a 2" long 5/8 bolt with a nut threaded right up to the head. This allows the hub to be adjusted perfectly centered then weld it all together. The first pic is a hub, spoke & bolt.
 
I had some 20" pipe that I originally planned on being my firebox, but it was too small. I cut 2 pieces of it 6" long to be the wheels. I cut the centers from 2 old trailer wheels & trued them up on the lathe. I'm using 1/2" pipe for the spokes. In order to center it all up, I cut the pipe 1" short & put in a 2" long 5/8 bolt with a nut threaded right up to the head. This allows the hub to be adjusted perfectly centered then weld it all together. The first pic is a hub, spoke & bolt.


Interested in this as I am getting ready to make 36" and 20" wheels for mine (to look like old tractor wheels)
 
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