Small backyard reverse flow build

[ksmoker]

Looks like your coming along great and it also looks like the weather is great to. Good job

 

[gary s]

Looking good, can't wait for more pictures

Gary

 

[txsean]

Thanks guys. The weather has been great for a change. It has been nice to finally go a week without an arctic blast. Not sure how much I will get done this weekend. The door is cut minus the corners, so I might finish that and try to clean up the rust on the inside to prep for some work. It's pretty exciting to walk out into the garage and see something that looks morel like a cooker and not just a plain firebox sitting on the table ;)

 

[txsean]

Well, I'm calling it a weekend. Laid 8 pallets of sod Saturday morning, in the rain no less, only to get home, clean up (pass out) and have the sun come out... figures. Today I fabbed the rails and cooking racks. I usually 45* cut my corners but I wanted to try a difference technique I've seen around, so I coped these corners. Came out pretty quick and smooth. I like it. Anyway, here is how she will sit for a few days. 

sb13.jpg

• txsean
• Mar 16, 2014

sb14.jpg

• txsean
• Mar 16, 2014

sb11.jpg

• txsean
• Mar 16, 2014

sb12.jpg

• txsean
• Mar 16, 2014

 

[txsean]

I'll try to take some pics this week, but I am a little worried about the door fit. I expected some issues (seems inevitable) but this one seemed like the pipe itself popped up a little in the middle top cut. And of course the corners popped a little. I'm not terribly worried about the corners, I can just use the old jack and chain method. I'll have to mess with it to see how bad it is. I'll post pics and info soon. I am hoping its not too bad. It is 3/8" pipe... 

 

[txsean]

I'm hoping that the center of the top cut only popped up since the corners weren't fully cut yet. And maybe once those were cut, the door relieved itself as a whole. 

 

[txsean]

So here it is. I got the door set in place and the corners actually look good. Good enough that I don't think I could get them much closer with out over correcting. Problem is my top cut has popped but it's the pipe that has risen, not the door. Don't see that problem too often but I know surely it's happened before. What do I do about this one? lol. I was ready for door warpage but not a 3/8" pipe to move. Ideas?

 

[crazyq]

I would try and bend the door out in the center to match it? Even if u need to bend the corners back in afterwards.

 

[txsean]

I might have to do that. I would just hate to take a square door (which seems rare lol since they all pop a little) and start chasing bends all arounds to get it to work. I'll have to mess around a little and see if I can get the top of the pipe to push back down a little.

 

[weedeater]

I think I would go ahead and get my hinges on it first and see what it looks like at that point.  What type of hinges are you going to use?  If you use some heavy material for your flanges you may be able to take care of it easier than you think.  If you can get it where you have constant pressure on it and heat it up it may return to where you want it and stay as it cools.  Just a thought.

 

[ribwizzard]

The pipe is wanting to "un roll" thats why it popped up like that. You might be able to play around with the ends since you still dont have them capped. Put a bottle jack in the end and see if spreading the end pushes it back down.  Not saying it will, but worth a try.

 

[txsean]

The pipe is wanting to "un roll" thats why it popped up like that. You might be able to play around with the ends since you still dont have them capped. Put a bottle jack in the end and see if spreading the end pushes it back down.  Not saying it will, but worth a try.

Certainly worth a try. I'll play around with it this weekend.

I think I would go ahead and get my hinges on it first and see what it looks like at that point.  What type of hinges are you going to use?  If you use some heavy material for your flanges you may be able to take care of it easier than you think.  If you can get it where you have constant pressure on it and heat it up it may return to where you want it and stay as it cools.  Just a thought.

I would be tempted but I wouldn't want to mess up my hinge alignment if I was able to get it to move. But I guess I could just weld the hinges on the pipe itself and add the door portions later. I plan on making some hinges, something a little beefy, 1/4 or 3/8 thick. I don't have a torch so I will have to see how I can get heat into it. I was thinking the same though that if I can get it close enough, I can just slightly mold the flange around to close the gap and seal the door.

Another thought I had too, not sure if this will work or not, was to wrap something around the pipe, maybe chain and place some kind of block or spacer over the high spot, then apply heat as I cinch down on the chain. Maybe that would bring it down. As I type this though I'm thinking maybe even the bottle jack on the high spot under the chain. Would allow me to jack up some tension on the chain and push down on the high spot. Just thinking out loud. Still need to find a heat source though

 

[shortera]

I saw the post about the tank end caps. Starbarg.com had a picture of them for sale. No idea how much, what size. Just saw the photo while searching for metal.

 

[buda q]

Glad to see ya back at it. Looking good. Send me a message when it's time to move it; I have a skid steer.

Good Luck

Keith

 

[bishgeo]

I have same problem door is fine pipe bowed out in middle top and bottom off on one end too.Putting my flanges on and dealing with it later maybe bottle jack it around then weld ends on.??

cut 2.jpeg

• bishgeo
• Mar 24, 2014

lid gap.jpeg

• bishgeo
• Mar 24, 2014

lid gap3.jpeg

• bishgeo
• Mar 24, 2014

lid gap 5.jpeg

• bishgeo
• Mar 24, 2014

 

[txsean]

I have same problem door is fine pipe bowed out in middle top and bottom off on one end too.Putting my flanges on and dealing with it later maybe bottle jack it around then weld ends on.??

cut 2.jpeg

• bishgeo
• Mar 24, 2014

lid gap.jpeg

• bishgeo
• Mar 24, 2014

lid gap3.jpeg

• bishgeo
• Mar 24, 2014

lid gap 5.jpeg

• bishgeo
• Mar 24, 2014

It's hard to tell from the pics, but I would hold off on the door flanges until you are sure you don't need to make any adjustments to the door itself. If you do then it will be hard to do without bending the flanges. (Assuming the flanges are going on the door of course)

 

[txsean]

I saw the post about the tank end caps. Starbarg.com had a picture of them for sale. No idea how much, what size. Just saw the photo while searching for metal.

Thank for the tip. I wasn't able to find anything. I'm not really familiar with starbarg.

Glad to see ya back at it. Looking good. Send me a message when it's time to move it; I have a skid steer.

Good Luck

Keith

Thanks Keith. I'm glad to be back on the way. The pipe flex has slowed me down a little but there is still work to be done. Gotta get this thing up and running pronto! Lol missing out on some great q-ing weather lately. How's yours working out so far?

 

[maple sticks]

 

[bishgeo]

Did you ever get the pipe back down in the middle.

 

[txsean]

I can push it down pretty easily but haven't been able to make it stick yet. I either need some heat or maybe a second jack to really push it down and get some leverage on it. About an 1/8 or an inch is all I need for a clean fitting door. The bottom and corners are already good.