Safe Materials to Build a Wood Smoker/Smokehouse

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SD Smoker

Newbie
Original poster
Jan 2, 2022
23
5
Hello everyone,

I am looking to make my own smoker. I have looked at steel, brick, and wood smokers and have come to the conclusion that a wood smoker is best for me, since I don't have any experience with welding, and I would like to have something that is at least moveable, if not portable.

When looking for materials for a wood smoker, I have run across several different items people have used. My primary concern with any of them is whether they are safe to use in a place where food is going to be prepared. Here is what I am thinking: 3' deep x 3' wide x 5' high smokehouse, pine or cedar 2x4 frame (untreated wood) with double walled construction with insulation in between (fiberglass, ceramic fiber, mineral wool, or sheep's wool), 1/2" cement board (Hardie Backer, other brands?) for reflecting heat, and high-temp silicone sealant for the inside seams. My secondary and tertiary concerns are temperature regulation and portability. I was also wondering, regarding temperature regulation, if this build would be overkill. I am planning to have an offset firebox

This is my first time posting on this website, and I have looked around some for these answers with no real luck, so please point me in the right direction if these questions have already been answered. Any other suggestions on materials, or even design suggestions, would be appreciated.

Thank you in advance.
 
If you want it to be somewhat portable.. I would look into metal stud framing and then only the 1/4" masonry board (tile backerboard)... The hardy panels are made with a paper type material layered ... as for a firebox... that would have to be metal of some sort ...

And welcome to the forums (your new addiction) ...
 
Thanks for the reply and the welcome, JckDanls07! If you ask my wife, this definitely isn't my *new* addiction! LOL.

I have briefly looked into the metal studs. That would definitely help with the weight. I am also looking to put wheels on either 2 or 4 legs but am most likely looking at 2 legs to help maintain some stability.

I was looking at the tile backerboard, and there are several types, including cement backer board (cement and reinforced on the top and bottom with fiberglass), fiber cement board (Portland cement mixed with sand and cellulose fibers), glass mat gypsum board (gypsum treated with silicone), and styrofoam backerboard. I assume I wouldn't want styrofoam. Are any of the other three acceptable for the inside of the smokehouse?

As for the firebox, I was looking at using one of those grills that can double as the firebox for a manufactured offset smoker.
 
Welcome from Iowa! You came to the right place! Maybe SmokinEdge SmokinEdge will chime in with some answers for you. He has a really well designed smokehouse.

Ryan
 
Hi Ryan,

Thanks for the welcome. Someone in NW Iowa definitely would be able to give us South Dakotans some recommendations on temperature control, too. I look forward to any and all responses. I have an idea in my head of how I want to proceed, and I am hopefully not too stubborn to change my thought process if it gives me a better finished product.

By the way, glad to see you have red and black on your place and not green!

Scott
 
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Thanks for the link, Winterrider! After reading a few of the posts, it appears that the materials I listed are generally going to be safe as long as I seal everything up properly.
 
Hi Ryan,

Thanks for the welcome. Someone in NW Iowa definitely would be able to give us South Dakotans some recommendations on temperature control, too. I look forward to any and all responses. I have an idea in my head of how I want to proceed, and I am hopefully not too stubborn to change my thought process if it gives me a better finished product.

By the way, glad to see you have red and black on your place and not green!

Scott
It does help to keep an open mind! Edge is from Colorado and has a really nice setup. Depending on if he's hot smoking, cold smoking and what outside Temps are he has options. Which is good living where we do. But hey...this weekend was great for cold smoking cheese!

Ryan

P.S. only green on the farm is an old Oliver and an older Deutz that are dad's. :emoji_blush:
 

Look at post #23 I think, couple pics of his setup

Ryan
 
Hello everyone,

I am looking to make my own smoker. I have looked at steel, brick, and wood smokers and have come to the conclusion that a wood smoker is best for me, since I don't have any experience with welding, and I would like to have something that is at least moveable, if not portable.

When looking for materials for a wood smoker, I have run across several different items people have used. My primary concern with any of them is whether they are safe to use in a place where food is going to be prepared. Here is what I am thinking: 3' deep x 3' wide x 5' high smokehouse, pine or cedar 2x4 frame (untreated wood) with double walled construction with insulation in between (fiberglass, ceramic fiber, mineral wool, or sheep's wool), 1/2" cement board (Hardie Backer, other brands?) for reflecting heat, and high-temp silicone sealant for the inside seams. My secondary and tertiary concerns are temperature regulation and portability. I was also wondering, regarding temperature regulation, if this build would be overkill. I am planning to have an offset firebox

This is my first time posting on this website, and I have looked around some for these answers with no real luck, so please point me in the right direction if these questions have already been answered. Any other suggestions on materials, or even design suggestions, would be appreciated.

Thank you in advance.
Welcome.
couple questions.
What temperature range are you wanting to obtain/hold?
What kind of product are you wanting to produce?
 
It does help to keep an open mind! Edge is from Colorado and has a really nice setup. Depending on if he's hot smoking, cold smoking and what outside Temps are he has options. Which is good living where we do. But hey...this weekend was great for cold smoking cheese!

Ryan

P.S. only green on the farm is an old Oliver and an older Deutz that are dad's. :emoji_blush:

Look at post #23 I think, couple pics of his setup

Ryan
Thanks for the link. There are a couple things I see in that build that I hadn't thought of. I appreciate your help.
 
Welcome.
couple questions.
What temperature range are you wanting to obtain/hold?
What kind of product are you wanting to produce?
Hi SmokinEdge. Thanks for the welcome. I am looking to primarily do low and slow with temps hopefully no higher than 250 and also do some cold smoking. If I can do an all-in-one unit that could cook at higher temperatures, I would do that, too, if there's no chance of causing illness from off gassing.

I was also contemplating putting a really thin gauge steel liner in the smokehouse if it means being safer and just having someone weld it for me.

As far as what product, It will be mostly pork products such as ribs or hams, and I also want to do some side dishes as well such as beans, vegetables, mac and cheese, etc. I want to have the ability to do multiple items at the same time if possible. I currently have a Pit Barrel Cooker and really like how it works for smoking vertically but don't like how few square inches there are to cook on if I am using the grate.
 
Hi SmokinEdge. Thanks for the welcome. I am looking to primarily do low and slow with temps hopefully no higher than 250 and also do some cold smoking. If I can do an all-in-one unit that could cook at higher temperatures, I would do that, too, if there's no chance of causing illness from off gassing.

I was also contemplating putting a really thin gauge steel liner in the smokehouse if it means being safer and just having someone weld it for me.

As far as what product, It will be mostly pork products such as ribs or hams, and I also want to do some side dishes as well such as beans, vegetables, mac and cheese, etc. I want to have the ability to do multiple items at the same time if possible. I currently have a Pit Barrel Cooker and really like how it works for smoking vertically but don't like how few square inches there are to cook on if I am using the grate.
Building a wooden smokehouse to go BBQ temps is certainly not optimal. That said, I have run mine between 225-250*. For the most part mine never goes above 170* to finish but steady in that 130-145* range. I think you will struggle with an offset firebox just to maintain those temps. I have a propane turkey fryer burner in the bottom with a CI pan on top as a heat defuser and is also where I place wood chunks to smolder and make smoke. This allows me as much as 50,000 btu’s inside the house to make heat, I installed a needle valve in the gas supply line to control the flame down low.

Lining the inside with steel and framing with steel studs would be best for higher temps, although the 1/4” hardibacker I put in the bottom of mine is working well. My smokehouse is 3x3x7’ the bottom 3’ is for heat space and the top 4’ is for smoking/cooking. This space is divided by four shelf areas that can either support dowl rods across for hanging or will support expanded metal grates for large scale smoking of meats. If you were to smoke 150# of pork butts, or brisket this makes sense, but to do one or two doesn’t make sense. I mostly smoke hams, bacon and sausage And turkeys. All hot smoked. True cold smoke in a chamber this big is a PITA. You need a firebox 15’ or so away with a flue pipe running uphill from the fire to the house. This allows the smoke to cool before entering the house. I’ll be happy to answer any other questions you may have.
 
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Building a wooden smokehouse to go BBQ temps is certainly not optimal. That said, I have run mine between 225-250*. For the most part mine never goes above 170* to finish but steady in that 130-145* range. I think you will struggle with an offset firebox just to maintain those temps. I have a propane turkey fryer burner in the bottom with a CI pan on top as a heat defuser and is also where I place wood chunks to smolder and make smoke. This allows me as much as 50,000 btu’s inside the house to make heat, I installed a needle valve in the gas supply line to control the flame down low.

Lining the inside with steel and framing with steel studs would be best for higher temps, although the 1/4” hardibacker I put in the bottom of mine is working well. My smokehouse is 3x3x7’ the bottom 3’ is for heat space and the top 4’ is for smoking/cooking. This space is divided by four shelf areas that can either support dowl rods across for hanging or will support expanded metal grates for large scale smoking of meats. If you were to smoke 150# of pork butts, or brisket this makes sense, but to do one or two doesn’t make sense. I mostly smoke hams, bacon and sausage And turkeys. All hot smoked. True cold smoke in a chamber this big is a PITA. You need a firebox 15’ or so away with a flue pipe running uphill from the fire to the house. This allows the smoke to cool before entering the house. I’ll be happy to answer any other questions you may have.
Thanks for the helpful information. I certainly am not aiming to get to 250 degrees. I was using that as, hopefully, an absolute maximum temperature. You mention that you smoke primarily at the 130-145 degree range and finish at 170. Most of what I have read says 225 degrees is the Holy Grail of smoking. Is there a specific reason for the lower temperatures, such as something unique about a smokehouse build versus a commercially manufactured smoker, the offset firebox, personal preference on your part, or something else? When hot smoking, I am planning to wrap the firebox and pipe in some sort of insulation to help maintain better temperatures there and not lose so much on the way up to the smokehouse.

As far as the cold smoking goes, I am looking at doing the AMNPS tray for that. I have a 12" tube from them that I have used in my Pit Barrel, but the smoke has been so acrid from it the last 3 times I have tried to do it that I am looking for another option. Maybe it's the pellets, but it's happened with a different type of pellet each time. Does it necessarily need to be flue pipe for cold smoking? If I really want to, could I buy some dryer vent duct and run it uphill the 15'? The flexibility would make it easier to run than the flue pipe. That distance would either make it a really gradual uphill climb, or I need to build the smoker up higher than I was originally planning.

Are there any specific physics you are considering/employing regarding the 3' space on the bottom of your smokehouse for the heat? I'm assuming that buffer zone helps to maintain even heat throughout the rest of the smokehouse?

Any recommendations on a specific type of insulation?

I like the overall design you listed. Do you have any recent pictures of your build with the Hardiebacker in it?

Thanks again for all your help with this. It seems like the more I am learning about this whole process, the more I need to learn. I guess that's what keeps us sharp.
 
You mention that you smoke primarily at the 130-145 degree range and finish at 170.

This temp is for doing sausage (homemade, using cure #1)

I have a 12" tube from them that I have used in my Pit Barrel, but the smoke has been so acrid from it the last 3 times

When using the tube for cold smoking... Is the exhaust vent wide open ? If not.. it needs to be... That would be the reason for the acrid smoke ...
 
Most of what I have read says 225 degrees is the Holy Grail of smoking.
Let’s clear some things up and be clear for the record and sake of this conversation.

Cold Smoke:
This is defined as between 33 and 71*F

Warm Smoke:
This is defined as between 73 and 104*F

Hot Smoke:
This is defined as between 105 and 140*F
Temperatures can go as high as 176*F for brief periods of time to obtain an internal meat temp of not higher than 155*F
I would never subject my sausage, bacon or my prized hams to temperature greater than this.

Temperatures between 180 and 295*F are considered BBQ. And yes 225* is, in some circles, considered “the holy grail”, I disagree as 250-275*F work much better.


As far as the cold smoking goes, I am looking at doing the AMNPS tray for that. I have a 12" tube from them that I have used in my Pit Barrel, but the smoke has been so acrid from it the last 3 times I have tried to do it that I am looking for another option.
You need more air flow to feed the smoldering pellets and more air exchange in the smoke chamber.

This would be the typical smokehouse set up.
8507E3BC-F79B-4DEF-B57B-3F233E34BD2D.jpeg

I highly recommend you buy this book:

Are there any specific physics you are considering/employing regarding the 3' space on the bottom of your smokehouse for the heat? I'm assuming that buffer zone helps to maintain even heat throughout the rest of the smokehouse?
I have a 50,000 btu propane burner in the bottom and need to diffuse the heat before it gets up to the meat. This space levels out the temperature of the warm are and mixes it well with the cold intake air so I have a consistent air temp at the upper meat chamber, remember, I’m hot smoking.

C09FC022-0DD0-4D2F-9E20-040C2DC42D6B.jpeg

4F044520-2471-41FB-AE21-EB5ED06408F3.jpeg

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Cold Smoke:
This is defined as between 33 and 71*F

Warm Smoke:
This is defined as between 73 and 104*F

Hot Smoke:
This is defined as between 105 and 140*F
Temperatures can go as high as 176*F for brief periods of time to obtain an internal meat temp of not higher than 155*F
Clears some things up for me since I had different temperature values assigned to each category
 
This temp is for doing sausage (homemade, using cure #1)



When using the tube for cold smoking... Is the exhaust vent wide open ? If not.. it needs to be... That would be the reason for the acrid smoke ...
There isn't really what I would call an exhaust vent on the PBC. The "vent" is where the two pieces of rebar go into their respective holes, but I could certainly get more airflow by pulling those out. If that's not enough, I can always crack open the lid. The intake vent is something I can play around with, too.
 
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