Newbie RF build with pics and Questions

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fat bass bbq

Fire Starter
Original poster
Aug 23, 2012
30
10
Danville, AL



Here we go..... I am starting the adventure of building my 1st RF smoking rig. I am starting with 6'x26" 1/4" rolled steel cylinder. I also have scored a 19' boat trailer, 22.5' end to end. I'm learning to weld as I go and perfecting my grinding has easier than my welding. I have a several good friends who have contributed to this build. I will post pics as I can. Right now I have the fire box at 80% finished, cook chamber at 75% and trailer at 5% finished.
 
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Can someone tell me what size opening I need from the firebox to the cook chamber? I'm not sure I was able to understand the feldon when it came to the half moon shape cut out.
 
Also has anyone used fire\brick to insulate their firebox. I have in mind that I will line the inside of my fire box with clay blocks I plan to make. I am a little concerned that they will break in transit.
 
WOW.. you may have to put another axle under that trailer.... looks like it's gonna be heavy... sure is looking good though
 
Yes I am concerned about that. I am also concerned about stopping this beast. I am considering adding and/or replacing the existing axle and go with a tandem with brake. I have started trying to figure my weight but that has been a task in itself.
 
Convert it to a double axle with electric over hydraulic disc surge brakes on at least one axle (depending on weight may need brakes on two axles).  That would give you the most control and adjustment range for the brakes.   I don't see a single axle being enough capacity. The limiting factor will be the weight rating of the existing axle and the tires (my money is on the tires being the weak link as it sits now).  I would try to stay under 70% of the rated maximum and even less is better.  Typically single axle boat trailers have 3500 pound axles at best and it could be significantly less "as is".  If there are no brakes on the trailer now, bet on it being less than 3500.  And don't forget that 3,500 pound figure also includes the weight of the steel in the trailer.

What are you going to tow it with?
 
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Convert it to a double axle with electric over hydraulic disc surge brakes on at least one axle (depending on weight may need brakes on two axles).  That would give you the most control and adjustment range for the brakes.   I don't see a single axle being enough capacity. The limiting factor will be the weight rating of the existing axle and the tires (my money is on the tires being the weak link as it sits now).  I would try to stay under 70% of the rated maximum and even less is better.  Typically single axle boat trailers have 3500 pound axles at best and it could be significantly less "as is".  If there are no brakes on the trailer now, bet on it being less than 3500.  And don't forget that 3,500 pound figure also includes the weight of the steel in the trailer.

What are you going to tow it with?
I have a 2005 Toyota Tacoma  4.OL V6. I Think the tires are 185 70R14 but I wont swear to that. I have a guy who said he would sell me 2 boat trailer axles, one with brake, for $100. I seriously thinking that is the way togo. I have been cooking on a Lang 108 Deluxe and it has only one axle but it is a lot larger, Im sure. I can tow it fine but stopping is a different story. It has pushed my into more than one intersection when it is the least bit wet. I know the lang has to weight more than what I am building, dont you think?
 
I guess it would be a good idea to run my rig over to the recycleing center and see if the will let me weigh it before I start putting it together.
 
Anyone have any thoughts about my fire box brick idea? It appears that my firebox is at 172.4% Size differential from recommendation.
 
Weight of everything at the truck scales or recycling center is a great idea (Truck scales might be easier if you can borrow a large trailer, weigh the trailer empty and then set the parts on the trailer and reweigh.

What type of brakes are on the axles the guy has for $100?  If they are electric then all you need is a electric brake controller if you truck does not already have one installed.  Electric brakes are probably from a travel trailer.  Boat trailers will have hydraulic brakes since they get submerged all the time. For you purpose either will work.  If they are hydraulic, it will either be surge brakes or electric over hydraulic (surge is most common).  But you have to have the surge coupler to go with the hydraulic surge brakes to make them work.  Electric over hydraulic uses a brake controller just like the electric only do and it has a component on the trailer that converts the output into hydraulic pressure.   I think standard electric would be the easy way to go for your trailer as you are only dealing with weight and not water like when it was a boat trailer.

Also look at the thickness and size of the trailer frame to make sure it can handle the weight also.  That smoker will weight a bunch more than a boat that lived on a single axle trailer ever will.

One more comment on trailers.  If your truck has a 7 pin RV type outlet, then I would wire the smoker trailer with a 7 pin plug to fit.  That way you don't have to fiddle with a 7 pin to 4 or 5 pin adapter.  The less connections in the chain the better, plus it's easy to loose the adapter, have it wiggle loose, etc....  I've converted all my boat and utility trailers to 7 pin to match the hitch on my truck as it was installed when I had a travel trailer.  Just makes it simpler.
 
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Weight of everything at the truck scales or recycling center is a great idea (Truck scales might be easier if you can borrow a large trailer, weigh the trailer empty and then set the parts on the trailer and reweigh.

What type of brakes are on the axles the guy has for $100?  If they are electric then all you need is a electric brake controller if you truck does not already have one installed.  Electric brakes are probably from a travel trailer.  Boat trailers will have hydraulic brakes since they get submerged all the time. For you purpose either will work.  If they are hydraulic, it will either be surge brakes or electric over hydraulic (surge is most common).  But you have to have the surge coupler to go with the hydraulic surge brakes to make them work.  Electric over hydraulic uses a brake controller just like the electric only do and it has a component on the trailer that converts the output into hydraulic pressure.   I think standard electric would be the easy way to go for your trailer as you are only dealing with weight and not water like when it was a boat trailer.

Also look at the thickness and size of the trailer frame to make sure it can handle the weight also.  That smoker will weight a bunch more than a boat that lived on a single axle trailer ever will.

One more comment on trailers.  If your truck has a 7 pin RV type outlet, then I would wire the smoker trailer with a 7 pin plug to fit.  That way you don't have to fiddle with a 7 pin to 4 or 5 pin adapter.  The less connections in the chain the better, plus it's easy to loose the adapter, have it wiggle loose, etc....  I've converted all my boat and utility trailers to 7 pin to match the hitch on my truck as it was installed when I had a travel trailer.  Just makes it simpler.
Now that sounds like a plan. I'm not sure on the axle, I will go by this week and find out. I figured I would need the brake box, I hope to find one on ebay/craigslist rather cheap.  I was planning to run angle iron support across the trailer but I havent given much thought to the suport of the length of the trailer. Def something to think about.

Thanks
 
the good thing about the 7 pin outlet is... you can wire one pin with a hot wire with the truck ignition off and have power for a light on the trailer... or you can put a separate battery on the trailer and have the charging system of the truck charge that battery when the truck is running (that way you won't kill the truck battery) ... myself, I would just go with electric brakes only... less maintenance in the future.... just a couple more ideas...
 
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the good thing about the 7 pin outlet is... you can wire one pin with a hot wire with the truck ignition off and have power for a light on the trailer... or you can put a separate battery on the trailer and have the charging system of the truck charge that battery when the truck is running (that way you won't kill the truck battery) ... myself, I would just go with electric brakes only... less maintenance in the future.... just a couple more ideas...
I would suggest putting a battery on the trailer and using the charge line from the trailer hitch (7 pin) to keep it charged while driving.  I would unplug the hitch while using the trailer and run it off the battery if you have electrical needs such as lights, etc....  It sucks to be stuck with a dead truck battery.

How do I know this?  Well, I did it "ONCE" with the travel trailer while dry camping.  Once was all it took too.

Also since you don't have a brake controller, try and find a Tekonsha model.  I have their Prodigy model and love it.  Even if you buy it new, the price is not too bad, but working and used is better.
 
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I would suggest putting a battery on the trailer and using the charge line from the trailer hitch (7 pin) to keep it charged while driving.  I would unplug the hitch while using the trailer and run it off the battery if you have electrical needs such as lights, etc....  It sucks to be stuck with a dead truck battery.

How do I know this?  Well, I did it "ONCE" with the travel trailer while dry camping.  Once was all it took too.

Also since you don't have a brake controller, try and find a Tekonsha model.  I have their Prodigy model and love it.  Even if you buy it new, the price is not too bad, but working and used is better.
Wiring not my strong suit. I might the Wiring for dummies on that setup, or at least pics. I will check out the prodigy, Thanks again
 
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