new master forge smoker

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ribob

Newbie
Original poster
Mar 20, 2011
29
11
Rumford, Rhode Island
I picked up my new master forge propane smoker from Lowes today. It is seasoning as I type this. I have some buck board and candian bacon curing since yesterday. Cant wait till there done. I was amazed at how quick it came up to temp. and held. I might even convert my old Smoky Mountain vertical to propane.
 
Congrats on the new rig!  How about some pix?  Propane is awfully convenient, especially for temp mgmt.  I have a conversion for my upright that allows me to return to charcoal if desired and then to propane again.  Looking forward to the bacon Qview as well!
 
I love mine. I've done about 10 chickens and 6 butts on it so far. I just installed seals around the doors last weekend. I have not tried it since then, but I'm putting a turkey breast on it tomorrow.
 
Hey RIBOB,

Congrats on the new Master Forge. I've had mine for almost a year now. There are quite a few mods you can do to make it run more efficiently for you. One thing I would highly suggest, if you haven't already done so, is that you check the door thermometer (if you're relying on it for your temp read) with boiling water. The MF door thermometers are notorious for being inaccurate, as much as 100* as illustrated below. Looking forward to seeing some Q-view of your BBB & CB!!

This is the 1st thermometer. 2nd one is reading about 60* too high.

 
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Roadkill, what are some other mods to do to the smoker?
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The mods I've made I learned from others on this forum. I have the newer model MF with the side shelf and drip diverters inside.
  • Sealed doors with Permatex High-Temp Red RTV Silicon Gasket Maker. Ran a nice sized bead around door, covered with cellophane wrap, close door, leave for 24 hrs. to cure. Peel cellophane off and you have a form fitting seal. Fire smoker with some wood for a while to remove gasket smell.
  • I removed the drip diverters on door and rear of unit by sliding a metal putty knife behind it at the tack welds and whacking with a hammer.
  • Cut front & back edges off the water pan. Along with removing the drip diverters I now have a gap front/rear heat can move up.
  • Got another cooking grate and use an old cast iron skillet for wood chunks. (N/A for me anymore since I bought a AMNPS).
  • I had a HUGE gap in the top, right corner when I first got mine. I installed a sash lock and tightened it right up.
Others have installed a needle valve to give better control of gas. If you search Master Forge + Mods in the search bar you'll come up with a lot of stuff. Here's a pic of the sash lock mod.

 
 
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