Meat grinder

[smokin peachey]

Anyone have any info on this grinder. I found it in a shed. I am thinking of trying to get it working.

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• smokin peachey
• Jan 1, 2017

The only tag I can find is on the motor.

[

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• smokin peachey
• Jan 1, 2017

 

[smokin peachey]

I took the motor off the grinder and the motor runs. Gears were tight in the grinder but I got them freed up. It still needs cleaned out.

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• smokin peachey
• Jan 1, 2017

What lube is recommended to be used?

One of the grinder plates says Enterprise no10 this is the only info I have found on the grinder so far.

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• smokin peachey
• Jan 1, 2017

 

[smokin peachey]

What size holes are typical for grinder plates?

 

[boykjo]

What a great find.....

Might call these guys and tell them what you have    http://www.meatprocessingproducts.com/

I would use wheel bearing grease

Boykjo

 

[smokin peachey]

What is the recommended lube for the gearbox on this type of grinder?

 

[pc farmer]

That looks a lot like my Hobart.

I will snap some pics tonight.

 

[dward51]

Like Boykjo said, wheel bearing grease.  I use "Green Grease" which is a synthetic. I use it on all my trailers, both utility and boat.  It will be fine for those gears and can usually be found at any auto parts store (or go with whatever synthetic they have if they don't carry Green Grease). Actually if you want to be exact on what to use, it needs to be NSF food grade gear grease.  However if the construction of the gear case makes it impossible for any grease to leak out, automotive or marine bearing grease will work and is a lot easier to find. Make sure to ground the frame as those old motors never had grounds (and neither did houses back then).

As to new plates.  The #10 and #12 grinders use the same size plates so you have a lot of options.  Stainless steel or hardened carbon steel will work. Just make sure to hand wash and quickly dry any carbon steel items and then hit with food grade silicone spray (like the LEM grinder spray), or cooking spray oil like Pam to keep the carbon steel from rusting.  I have both types and I keep my protected carbon steel knives and plates in a zip lock bag so I don't get the oil everywhere in storage.  The carbon steel plates are less expensive and work just fine.  Stainless will rust so give it protection as well (it can rust, just not any where near as quickly or easily as carbon steel).

I would look for a set of 3/16" (4.5mm) or 1/4" (6mm), 3/8" (10mm) and 1/2" (12mm) to start.  It really depends on what you want to make.  If you are looking at hotdogs and other emulsified meats, then also get a 1/8" plate (3mm).  They also make a stuffing plate which has large holes to act only as a spacer to hold the grinder screw in to feed meat into a stuffing tube in front of the plate.  I would avoid using the grinder to stuff, but if you have no other option, it can be done.

Just google #12 grinder plates and you will find them in dozens of locations online and on eBay. Any of the sausage supply websites, websturantstore, Bass Pro, Cabela's, LEM, Gander Mountain, etc...  Also if you have a Bass Pro, Cabela's, Gander Mountain, Academy Sports, etc... nearby they probably have them on the shelf.

 

[smokin peachey]

That looks a lot like my Hobart.

I will snap some pics tonight.

Thanks.
I got the gears out of it and got the gunk cleaned out today. Now I just need to get it back together and put a new plug on it and fire it up.

 

[smokin peachey]

Like Boykjo said, wheel bearing grease.  I use "Green Grease" which is a synthetic. I use it on all my trailers, both utility and boat.  It will be fine for those gears and can usually be found at any auto parts store (or go with whatever synthetic they have if they don't carry Green Grease). Actually if you want to be exact on what to use, it needs to be NSF food grade gear grease.  However if the construction of the gear case makes it impossible for any grease to leak out, automotive or marine bearing grease will work and is a lot easier to find. Make sure to ground the frame as those old motors never had grounds (and neither did houses back then).

As to new plates.  The #10 and #12 grinders use the same size plates so you have a lot of options.  Stainless steel or hardened carbon steel will work. Just make sure to hand wash and quickly dry any carbon steel items and then hit with food grade silicone spray (like the LEM grinder spray), or cooking spray oil like Pam to keep the carbon steel from rusting.  I have both types and I keep my protected carbon steel knives and plates in a zip lock bag so I don't get the oil everywhere in storage.  The carbon steel plates are less expensive and work just fine.  Stainless will rust so give it protection as well (it can rust, just not any where near as quickly or easily as carbon steel).

I would look for a set of 3/16" (4.5mm) or 1/4" (6mm), 3/8" (10mm) and 1/2" (12mm) to start.  It really depends on what you want to make.  If you are looking at hotdogs and other emulsified meats, then also get a 1/8" plate (3mm).  They also make a stuffing plate which has large holes to act only as a spacer to hold the grinder screw in to feed meat into a stuffing tube in front of the plate.  I would avoid using the grinder to stuff, but if you have no other option, it can be done.

Just google #12 grinder plates and you will find them in dozens of locations online and on eBay. Any of the sausage supply websites, websturantstore, Bass Pro, Cabela's, LEM, Gander Mountain, etc...  Also if you have a Bass Pro, Cabela's, Gander Mountain, Academy Sports, etc... nearby they probably have them on the shelf.

Thank you for the info.

 

[kit s]

Gee I have one just like it....it is a heavy sucker that's for sure and the throat is really small too.

 

[Jineye]

I have a LEM #22. If you plan on using it for a whole deer or more than once a year I would not go any smaller. I first bought a #8. It handled the first grind fine. The problem comes with the second grind. The neck you put the meat into is too small and you end up having to use the "stuffer" to push the meat down to the auger. Virtually useless if you try to make sausage. When putting it into casings you push a lot of air into the casings. Returned it for a #10 same problem. Moved up to the #22 and now I can just drop the ground meat down the tube.

I got my father in law involved when I moved up to the #22. We shared the price and we share the grinder. Find a friend that hunts and team up to buy one that actually works the first time.

 

[kit s]

I have a LEM #22. If you plan on using it for a whole deer or more than once a year I would not go any smaller. I first bought a #8. It handled the first grind fine. The problem comes with the second grind. The neck you put the meat into is too small and you end up having to use the "stuffer" to push the meat down to the auger. Virtually useless if you try to make sausage. When putting it into casings you push a lot of air into the casings. Returned it for a #10 same problem. Moved up to the #22 and now I can just drop the ground meat down the tube.

I got my father in law involved when I moved up to the #22. We shared the price and we share the grinder. Find a friend that hunts and team up to buy one that actually works the first time.

Jin
I found that separating ground meet into strips and par-freezing before grind second time works wonders in that problem. I also add the seasoning before freezing and second grind helps mix it for me.
Kit