Masterbuilt not working properly

[marctrees]

MES Digitals - Rated #1 choice by Masochists.

Same old S**T , different day.  

Future prospective buyers - "Search", reading, and study of existing past posts here, SMF,  your friend.  

RA RA SIS BOOM BAH,........  GOOOOO   China !!!!!        Marc   

 

 

[gr0uch0]

 
MES Digitals - Rated #1 choice by Masochists.

Same old S**T , different day.  

Future prospective buyers - "Search", reading, and study of existing past posts here, SMF,  your friend.  

RA RA SIS BOOM BAH,........  GOOOOO   China !!!!!        Marc   

 

Hold your cards, I believe we have a winner.  Yep, Marc just won the Internet today!

X2 on this:  doesn't seem that a day passes that there's not someone with issues with these electric smokers.  I'll keep my charcoal, sticks, and propane, thank you very much.

 

[marctrees]

Or an Analog Masterbuilt, even though it can't sing and dance, and does not look like a Nike shoe or a "Transformer" with all the plastic crap.

Marc

 

[tallbm]

TallBM

They sent me two brand new element kits which had new connecting wires which I installed. Could you walk me through the controller solid state? Where to get one and how to replace it. Thanks

I don't think you can replace the Solid State Relay (SSR) that comes with the MES but I could be wrong.  

That is a question for MB Customer support.  Here are a couple of images to give you a visual of what I am about to explain.

board.jpg

• tallbm
• Mar 2, 2017

3a6236a1_IMG_5087.jpg

• tallbm
• Mar 2, 2017

The two images above are what I could find online of the circuit board of the MES that I am referring too.  Now I could be wrong because I can't see the exact markings and who knows what is actually  going on with these boards but it appears the boards contain a solid state relay (I think blue square on left image, and smaller solid black square at the top of the 2nd image).

With those images now I will give you an explanation of how this stuff usually works.

SSR - is basically a switch that allows the electricity to run to the heating element

Controller - is the electrical unit that is the brain and knows when to tell the SSR to switch on and allow power to go to the heating element or to switch off and cut power to the heating element

Power/Electricity - comes from the wall through the power chord and is split to the controller and to the SSR

In the images above you see the wires coming from the power chord going into the circuit board.  The power/electricity will then be split to the Controller and the SSR. So what you have is the following happening independent of one another:

Power/Electricity -> Controller

Power/Electricity -> SSR

Behavior You See

-You are getting power/electricity to your controller so power is going Wall->MES Chord->MES Circuit Board->Controller.

-Your problem is that the heating element is NOT heating which means it is not getting power/electricity.

Your situation seems to be one of the following:

1. Your controller is getting power but failing to signal the SSR to switch on

2. Your SSR is receiving the signal from the Controller but the SSR has malfunctioned and the switch STUCK in the OFF position so no power/electricity will ever make it through to the heating element

3. Wiring between the controller and SSR is failing, I would think you would have some indication like fire or burning (yikes)

Again I say I don't think you can swap the SSR that is on board because I have a feeling it is likely to soldered to the board and not directly wired.  So wires go to board and then power/electricity travels along the board to the SSR which likely has soldered points to receive the power/electricity.  Could I be wrong, of coarse but as you look at the image there isn't much room for a lot more to be happening.

Your Options

If you can get MB to send you a new controller and then you will know if the issue is in the controller unit, if it is not it is either in the wire to the board in the images above, the board itself, or the SSR.

 If it is not the controller and you know it is not your elements then you have two options.

1: Buy a Plug and Play PID controller that can handle 1200+watts like the WS-1510ELPM here http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=8&products_id=110 (which is better than MES' controller) AND rewire the MES so Power/Electricity goes directly to the heating element (including the existing safety switch in the wiring).

You then plug the MES power chord into the PID controller and the PID Controller into the wall.

What you will then have is Power/Electricity from Wall -> PID Controller -> MES Heating Element.

The PID will have a temp probe to measure the smoker temp and an SSR that will switch the power on/off to the MES heating element as the temp reaches the temp setting and the PID will then maintain the temp. 

You WILL always be within 1 or 2 degrees of your set temp and should never have swings like the MES would create.

I know I threw a lot at you here but honestly it is not that difficult to do rewire for a plug and play PID.

If you are already pulling the back off the MES and changing/wiring in the heating element then you are basically half way there to rewiring for the PID setup I mention.  

If you use an AMNPS and you go forward with the PID setup then you will have bypassed the most common issues that plague the MES and you will have a much better smoker for less than the price of the shipping on a new MES body they want to send you :)

I hope I walked you through this well enough.  Feel free to ask any/all questions you have.  It will take some time to wrap your head around some of this stuff, it did for me when I first started learning about it :)

 

[Bearcarver]

 
Or an Analog Masterbuilt, even though it can't sing and dance, and does not look like a Nike shoe or a "Transformer" with all the plastic crap.

Marc

Shoot !!

I should have bought the Analog, but I didn't know they were made in the USA.

Bear

 

[gary s]

I'm not a watt burner, always been a stick burner. But !!  I would like to have an electric for doing certain things that is a PITA on my RF.

I'm not saying I'll give up my RF I would like to have the best of both worlds. On charcoal and wood smokers there is nothing to go wrong except the person doing the smoking

And I have seen a lot of that. Doesn't matter what kind of smoker you have "Get To Know Your Smoker"

As for as the Electrics having problems, some do have legitimate issues, but a lot are caused because the owner if just learning and impatient.

I know quite a few Watt burners on here that smokes all the time and never have problems. For the most part I believe that most of the manufacturers want a good product

and are always trying to improve  ie  MES.

Smokers are like cars and opinions , everybody has one and thinks their's is the best or right.

Just my 2 cents worth

Gary

 

[marctrees]

 
Shoot !!

I should have bought the Analog, but I didn't know they were made in the USA.

Bear

No, still China.

As far as I know anyway.     Marc

 

[marctrees]

Some folks have had great VERY Historied  substantial experience w various Digital MES, and that's great.

But, before choosing model to buy, study the old posts in this "Electric Smokers" section.

If you are dead set on Digital, follow Bearcarvers evaluation post(s)

Otherwise......

I have never heard of failures in the Analog model, other than VERY few with the integral female connecting holes of the controller.

I'm sure it happens, but quite apparent very rarely.

The control, seems to be pretty darn reliable.

And the Heating  element itself, no problemo, RARELY if ever fails.

I'm not saying actual specific temp controlling, but reliable as far as general what it is supposed to do function, and close enough for MOST smoking.

Thing is, that's ALL there is,basic as heck controller, and element, no electronic gizmo Rube Goldberg stuff.

Obviously, unplug the control when finished cooking and bring indoors between Smokes.

I always do that, first thing after unplugging it,  while meat rests in smoker for awhile.

Cover control w  foil  if it starts raining when cooking.

Seeing as how it goes on sale as low as $110, (keep watch on Walmart, constantly changing prices, sometime VERY low) I feel how can you beat that?

The colored door ones, Red, Blue, and Pewter have gone as low as $109 w free ship to your Home.

At least at "end of season" it was that way, otherwise still under like $150 shipped.

Add the stuff in my Sig only IF and AS needed for the best all told Bang for Buck, AND reliability.

To cook couple hour foods, nothing else needed but chips.

Well, and a probe Thermometer like Maverick or Smoke, remote read if you like.

I just have a basic Polder so far, have to go outside to read it.

Wanna cook a longg smoke item like Brisket or Shoulder? Then add an AMNPS.

Got all you need then, unless you get into hommemade raw sausages or cold smoking, where temp needs to be very controlled.

This is not a Ford vs Chevy situation, it is facts from history situation.

New Folks here especially - SEARCH old posts for a WEALTH of info.

Flame, Lambaste me if I'm wrong please.

Marc

 

[Bearcarver]

I agree, Marc---Cheaper, Simpler, but there are other things to consider.

Analog not insulated, no remote, unless one is added.

And as far as problems, I think you would have to know how many Digital units have been sold, compared to how many analogs.

If we were to eliminate counting the problems found on the Generation #2 Units, which everyone here should know about by now, and if we knew how many other Digital units are out there, compared to how many Analog units. Then we could compare the ratio of problems per 100 units of each, but we don't know those numbers.

All we really know is there are a whole lot of Digital units among those who haunt these pages, and very few Analog owners.

So if we could compare 100 units with problems out of 2,000 Digital units, that would be no worse than 3 units with problems out of 60 Analog units.

We also know that there are more things on the Digital units that can go wrong, like a brand new Corvette compared to a '50 Chevy, but does that make the '50 Chevy a better machine?

About Masterbuilt Electric Smokehouse (Digital)

Masterbuilt Smokers (Bear's Thoughts & Findings)

MES Generation Number Recognition Pictures & Pics (Digital Units)

Bear

 

[marctrees]

Bear - Very agreed on all points.

I did think of the dig vs analog sales of 10:1 or whatever, figured my post was already getting long.

But most of those sales are by people purchasing a false facade, and not pre studying.

So I still remain totally convinced, my decision, again, explained in my Sig, is most logical for not just me, but anyone.

Just too high failure rate otherwise.  

No argument here, Hug.    Marc

 

[bham smoke]

I have finally thrown my MES away. Amazing to spend as much as we do on these and to have the issues that we get. The resolves are easy fixes and I have twice. Now I'm sick of it and will just use my Akorn cooker for everything.

Masterbuilt proclaims ease of use, great products, and excellent results. The results of the food when the unit works is the only thing I would say they got right. I cannot ever recommend their product to anyone. Same the time and efforts and use a charcoal griller.

Some may oppose my opinions but after you continue to jimmyrig your smokers due to poor Chinese quality I'm sure you'll agree.

Use a charcoal/wood smoker

 

[djrosa1]

T Bone Tim

how bout revealing your jerky recipe!!

Thanks DJ

 

[zeketers]

hey its great to here that  BHAM SMOKE I'm newbee also have learned 1 thing for sure no MES 4 me got vertcal Brinkman had some isuse but the forum help me get threw it I' ll stick with wood &charcoal for now... Zeke

 

[rstorrie]

Thanks for the forum on this smoker. I have used my Masterbuilt for about 5 years, then it stopped heating last week. Found this forum and read the posts. I was lucky, my smoker has an access panel on the back of the unit to access the heating element. I took the cover off and found what people described. The wires to the element were fried. One had completely disintegrated and fell apart and the other was cooked but still intact. Took the heating element out, used a wire wheel on my drill to clean and shine up the spades for the wires. Cut the wire back a little and removed the cloth wire insulating. Made sure the wire strands were twisted tight and slide it the hole in the middle of the spades with some flux on it. Twisted them around the spade and soldered them in place. I also found that the green ground wire in the unit was loose and had issues with the digital display numbers acting up. Tighten that up too. Put it all back together and fired up the smoker. The digital display is working properly now and the smoker heats faster. Worked flawlessly last night when I smoked babybacks. Thanks guys.......... 

 

[Bearcarver]

 
Thanks for the forum on this smoker. I have used my Masterbuilt for about 5 years, then it stopped heating last week. Found this forum and read the posts. I was lucky, my smoker has an access panel on the back of the unit to access the heating element. I took the cover off and found what people described. The wires to the element were fried. One had completely disintegrated and fell apart and the other was cooked but still intact. Took the heating element out, used a wire wheel on my drill to clean and shine up the spades for the wires. Cut the wire back a little and removed the cloth wire insulating. Made sure the wire strands were twisted tight and slide it the hole in the middle of the spades with some flux on it. Twisted them around the spade and soldered them in place. I also found that the green ground wire in the unit was loose and had issues with the digital display numbers acting up. Tighten that up too. Put it all back together and fired up the smoker. The digital display is working properly now and the smoker heats faster. Worked flawlessly last night when I smoked babybacks. Thanks guys.......... 

That's Great Rs !!

That seems to be the problem seen the most often with an MES. It happened to my second one at about 5 years too. I don't mind a 10 minute repair in 5 years.

Glad you're back & Smoking away!!

Bear

 

[smoker21]

Glad your back and smoking!

I'd be lost without mine.  Tomorrow's smoke will be about 20 #'s of Brined chicken drumsticks. I will be some Pecan wood chunks for the real flavor.

JD

 

[rambonyman]

Howdy.  My MES30 quit at the end of a 12 hour smoke last fall.  (the silver front window model with flat recessed LCD control panel on front top edge).  It was running along just fine and the next time I went up to it, it was off and would not turn back on.  LCD display was off, no power.  Checked my house electrical outlet and it worked fine.  Is there a fuse in the back of the smoker?  I opened up the back panel and all I can see is the main control board.  To me it looks like it isn't getting power at all since the display doesn't turn on at all.  I also tried plugging in a spare LCD control panel that I got because the original had a bubble in the protective coating.  The backup LCD control panel didn't work either, so I'm assuming there is a fuse somewhere that is buried within the unit, or the main control board is shot.  Any suggestions?  Thanks!!

 

[Bearcarver]

 
Howdy.  My MES30 quit at the end of a 12 hour smoke last fall.  (the silver front window model with flat recessed LCD control panel on front top edge).  It was running along just fine and the next time I went up to it, it was off and would not turn back on.  LCD display was off, no power.  Checked my house electrical outlet and it worked fine.  Is there a fuse in the back of the smoker?  I opened up the back panel and all I can see is the main control board.  To me it looks like it isn't getting power at all since the display doesn't turn on at all.  I also tried plugging in a spare LCD control panel that I got because the original had a bubble in the protective coating.  The backup LCD control panel didn't work either, so I'm assuming there is a fuse somewhere that is buried within the unit, or the main control board is shot.  Any suggestions?  Thanks!!

I can't help with something like that.

There are a couple guys on here who are great with electrical & electronics. One of them should get here.

You could also call Masterbuilt. They are usually pretty good at helping people & sending parts, even if the warranty is over.

Just call them & tell them what it does or doesn't do.

Bear

 

[dr k]

Howdy.  My MES30 quit at the end of a 12 hour smoke last fall.  (the silver front window model with flat recessed LCD control panel on front top edge).  It was running along just fine and the next time I went up to it, it was off and would not turn back on.  LCD display was off, no power.  Checked my house electrical outlet and it worked fine.  Is there a fuse in the back of the smoker?  I opened up the back panel and all I can see is the main control board.  To me it looks like it isn't getting power at all since the display doesn't turn on at all.  I also tried plugging in a spare LCD control panel that I got because the original had a bubble in the protective coating.  The backup LCD control panel didn't work either, so I'm assuming there is a fuse somewhere that is buried within the unit, or the main control board is shot.  Any suggestions?  Thanks!!

It seems your right about being a power issue and having to chase down where the circuit is open whether there is a fuse or fried/disconnected wire/component. It would be great to find the problem visually with the smoker unplugged but if it is permanently off then I would do TallBM's four wire cuts and splice to bypass in the bottom access panel all Mes components and plug the power cord into a PID controller. So the power cord black wire when plugged in runs electricity through the black braided wire safety snap disk to the heating element and the other element leg black braided wire back to the white neutral.
-Kurt

 

[larryb]

I had a similar problem with my 30 inch.  first you need to determine if the system is repairable.  look at the back and bottom,  if the access panels have screws, you can repair the unit, if they are riveted, it was designed to be replaced.  that being said, you could drill out the rivets and replace with screws.  just remember that there is a gasket under each panel that needs to be re-used.  

 if the unit has power but won't heat it is most likely the heating element.  if you have a repairable unit (one with screws and not rivets) replacing the heating element is a home owner capable repair.  if it just isn't working,  there is an over temp unit on the bottom behind one of the panels.  

call Masterbuilt,  they are usually very helpful.