Masterbuilt Model 20070910 Thermostat

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burninlove

Newbie
Original poster
Jan 4, 2021
9
0
Hello.

A pretty much newbie (only smoked 5 or so times), but have a question about the thermostat on my Model 20070910 9solid back door, no glass door). Anway, have had it 5 years, but never used it much. Trying to use it more now. Here's my question. Whenever I start it up and set the temperature and timer, all seems to work fine. I know the booklet says it has a max temp of 275 degrees. However, no matter what temperature I set it to, it always climbs to 300 degrees on the display. Now is that really the temperature or is it really going to 300 degrees? This unit has no temperature monitor built in that I can read - only the digital readout. Is the unit temperature readout supposed to eventually arrive at the temperature I program it to (and STAY THERE) or is it normal that the smoker actually goes to 300 on the readout - even if it the temperature inside is what I set it to. I thought the thermostat was not working so I ordered a new one and hooked it up just now and it responds exactly as the unit I just replaced. So are these readouts misleading in that they always go to 300 regardless of what I set it to or should the thermostat STOP at what I set the max temp to and stay at that temperature? I had no luck ordering the replacement from Masterbuilt as it is the only component for this model that is not available for reorder! And, of course, I cannot contact them as this is no longer under warranty and they answer phones! I just want to know if this unit works correctly or if I have a lemon. I never have faith to follow recipes as I cannot tell if I can get the unit to use the temperature the recipe calls for or if it will always try to smoke the meat at the same maximum temperature. Thanks for any help, folks.
 
Have you used a stand alone temp probe to verify the temp of the smoker? Or are you only going off the display?
 
Good morning.
There is one very important thing to understand about a MES--the temp gauges are junk. I've yet to see one that is anywhere close to accurate. My advice to you is not to waste your money replacing any of the therms on a MES. Rather, you're much better off purchasing a two probe remote digital thermometer. There are lots on the market, and they range from very inexpensive to "how much???". I use a Smoke therm--pricey, but very accurate.
With a 2 probe, you use one for the cook chamber temp and one as a meat probe. Boil test both probes so you know for sure that they're accurate. Then you just adjust your temp setting on the MES controller to match the remote.
An inexpensive instant read therm is a great addition.
Hope this helps.
Gary
 
Have you used a stand alone temp probe to verify the temp of the smoker? Or are you only going off the display?
Hello, Meat Mopper! Thank you for the reply! I appreciate it. I do not have a stand alone temp probe to verify the temp of the smoker. Was hoping the thermostat reading was correct. So I am only going off the display?.
 
Good morning.
There is one very important thing to understand about a MES--the temp gauges are junk. I've yet to see one that is anywhere close to accurate. My advice to you is not to waste your money replacing any of the therms on a MES. Rather, you're much better off purchasing a two probe remote digital thermometer. There are lots on the market, and they range from very inexpensive to "how much???". I use a Smoke therm--pricey, but very accurate.
With a 2 probe, you use one for the cook chamber temp and one as a meat probe. Boil test both probes so you know for sure that they're accurate. Then you just adjust your temp setting on the MES controller to match the remote.
An inexpensive instant read therm is a great addition.
Hope this helps.
Gary
Hello, Gary! Thank you for the time and energy of a reply. I think I'll agree the temp gauges are junk after having tried two now. So, I'll look into this 2 probe remote digital thermometer you mention. I haven't looked yet, but I guess it goes inside the smoker as you seem to indicate. Thank you for the idea. But here's a follow-up question. Should I TRUST this thermostat to at least get my unit to the temp I need for cooking when I first punch it in or no? If I cannot trust the thermostat to set the initial temp (regardless of what it reports), how would I be able to control any temp -even with the probes reporting correctly? A second question is do I kill much of the overall cooking process somewhat by the fact that I'd have to keep opening the unit to check the temps on the 2 probes of the thermometer? Not sure how often I would want to open it, but guess I'd come up with some methodology. Thanks again.

Matt
 
If you go to the electric smokers forum you will find more articles about the MES smokers than you can stand. Most everyone uses a wireless meat thermometer to keep track of their smoker temp and meat temp. You can sit in the house and monitor the temps and only go out to the smoker if an adjustment needs to be made.
 
Hello, Gary! Thank you for the time and energy of a reply. I think I'll agree the temp gauges are junk after having tried two now. So, I'll look into this 2 probe remote digital thermometer you mention. I haven't looked yet, but I guess it goes inside the smoker as you seem to indicate. Thank you for the idea. But here's a follow-up question. Should I TRUST this thermostat to at least get my unit to the temp I need for cooking when I first punch it in or no? If I cannot trust the thermostat to set the initial temp (regardless of what it reports), how would I be able to control any temp -even with the probes reporting correctly? A second question is do I kill much of the overall cooking process somewhat by the fact that I'd have to keep opening the unit to check the temps on the 2 probes of the thermometer? Not sure how often I would want to open it, but guess I'd come up with some methodology. Thanks again.

Matt
Hi there and welcome!

All of us electric guys use digital wireless thermometers because MES temp probes are always wrong.
You were given a great suggestion to get a dual probe version. You need a minimum of 2 probes but I will easily advocate for a 4-6 probe version as well as all those probes are super helpful to use!

So the way it works is that the thermometers come in 2 parts.
Part1: The broadcaster unit - has the temp probes that you drop down the smoker vent or just close the door on the probe wires. The probes will be in the smoker and the meat and will report to the broadcaster. You can see the temps on the broad caster AND as it's name suggest it broadcasts the temps to the hand held monitor.

Part2: The hand held controller/monitor unit - this part receives the broadcasted temps from the broadcast unit. You take this part inside with you. It also allows you to set alarms and timers and other settings for each probe that the broadcaster is running.

So you leave the broadcaster outside with probes in the smoker measuring smoker temp and probes in the meat measuring meat temp.
You take the hand held monitor unit inside with you and you set temp alarms on the meat probes to tell you when meat is ready or when to test if the meat is tender. You can set temp alarms on the smoker probes to tell you if you go over a temperature (like a flame up has happened) or if your go below a low temp (your smoker power cut off).


With the a remote thermometer you follow what the themometer says NOT what your MES control pannel says. So if your MES is reporting 300F and your themometer is showing 275F you know you are not at 300F. If you want to be smoking at 250F just lower the MES temp until the wireless thermometer reads 250F or so. That is how you will manage it.

Honestly if you have an MES hitting 300F you are super lucky because most of us are never able to hit max tem of 275F hahaha. You can always go down but you cannot make it go up :)

I hope this info helps :)
 
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Does the red indicator light on the smoker cycle on and off indicating that the heating element is turning on and off to maintain your set cooking temperature? Your smoker should act the same way as an electric range does. If for example you set the smoker to 100F and it climbs to 300F then you have internal electrical issues.
 
Hello, Gary! Thank you for the time and energy of a reply. I think I'll agree the temp gauges are junk after having tried two now. So, I'll look into this 2 probe remote digital thermometer you mention. I haven't looked yet, but I guess it goes inside the smoker as you seem to indicate. Thank you for the idea. But here's a follow-up question. Should I TRUST this thermostat to at least get my unit to the temp I need for cooking when I first punch it in or no? If I cannot trust the thermostat to set the initial temp (regardless of what it reports), how would I be able to control any temp -even with the probes reporting correctly? A second question is do I kill much of the overall cooking process somewhat by the fact that I'd have to keep opening the unit to check the temps on the 2 probes of the thermometer? Not sure how often I would want to open it, but guess I'd come up with some methodology. Thanks again.

Matt
tallbm got here before me and has given you an extremely good answer to your questions. When he tells you something about a MES or a PID unit, you can take it to the bank. He has helped me out on several occasions and helped make my MES a great smoker.
Gary
 
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Does the red indicator light on the smoker cycle on and off indicating that the heating element is turning on and off to maintain your set cooking temperature? Your smoker should act the same way as an electric range does. If for example you set the smoker to 100F and it climbs to 300F then you have internal electrical issues.
Murray - I want to thank you for your reply some time ago. I got very sick and am just now back on my feet. Sorry. To answer your question, my red indicator smoker stays on the entire time. It never goes off. Thank you.

Matt
 
tallbm got here before me and has given you an extremely good answer to your questions. When he tells you something about a MES or a PID unit, you can take it to the bank. He has helped me out on several occasions and helped make my MES a great smoker.
Gary
Gary, thank your last reply. I got very sick and am just now back on my feet. It was bad, but am better now. I sincerely apologize but wat to thank you for your help to date. One last question if I may: do you have a good recco for a remote digital thermometer with probes? Thank you agaon.

Matt
 
Hi there and welcome!

All of us electric guys use digital wireless thermometers because MES temp probes are always wrong.
You were given a great suggestion to get a dual probe version. You need a minimum of 2 probes but I will easily advocate for a 4-6 probe version as well as all those probes are super helpful to use!

So the way it works is that the thermometers come in 2 parts.
Part1: The broadcaster unit - has the temp probes that you drop down the smoker vent or just close the door on the probe wires. The probes will be in the smoker and the meat and will report to the broadcaster. You can see the temps on the broad caster AND as it's name suggest it broadcasts the temps to the hand held monitor.

Part2: The hand held controller/monitor unit - this part receives the broadcasted temps from the broadcast unit. You take this part inside with you. It also allows you to set alarms and timers and other settings for each probe that the broadcaster is running.

So you leave the broadcaster outside with probes in the smoker measuring smoker temp and probes in the meat measuring meat temp.
You take the hand held monitor unit inside with you and you set temp alarms on the meat probes to tell you when meat is ready or when to test if the meat is tender. You can set temp alarms on the smoker probes to tell you if you go over a temperature (like a flame up has happened) or if your go below a low temp (your smoker power cut off).


With the a remote thermometer you follow what the themometer says NOT what your MES control pannel says. So if your MES is reporting 300F and your themometer is showing 275F you know you are not at 300F. If you want to be smoking at 250F just lower the MES temp until the wireless thermometer reads 250F or so. That is how you will manage it.

Honestly if you have an MES hitting 300F you are super lucky because most of us are never able to hit max tem of 275F hahaha. You can always go down but you cannot make it go up :)

I hope this info helps :)
tallbm - thank you thank you thank you for your last reply some tiem ago. Right after you sent it, I got very sick (not COVID thankfully) and just now am back on my feet and hoping to resume meat smoking soon! You gave such expert advice and directions. I learned alot and appreciate your time and detail.

My MES races to the max temp read out every time, but am not sure it is telling me any truth. And the light never goes out until the timer turns it off. Anyway, do you have a good recommendation for a trusty remote digital thermometer with probes? I need to order one it sounds like! Thank you again!

Matt
 
Gary, thank your last reply. I got very sick and am just now back on my feet. It was bad, but am better now. I sincerely apologize but wat to thank you for your help to date. One last question if I may: do you have a good recco for a remote digital thermometer with probes? Thank you agaon.

Matt
Glad to hear you're doing a lot better, Matt.
I use Thermoworks Smoke remote digital therm. They're fairly expensive, but very good. Mine, straight out of the box, was within 1* accurate for both probes, I boil test it regularly and it has not varied from that since I bought it (couple of years now). I used to use a Maverick, but programming it was a real PIA so I gave it away and replaced it with the Smoke. I really like it--reliable and easy to program.
Gary
 
Murray - I want to thank you for your reply some time ago. I got very sick and am just now back on my feet. Sorry. To answer your question, my red indicator smoker stays on the entire time. It never goes off. Thank you.

Matt

I had the exact same issue. Masterbuilt replaced the Power Control Unit under warranty(pre Covid) To date, my MES has run flawlessly.
 

I had the exact same issue. Masterbuilt replaced the Power Control Unit under warranty(pre Covid) To date, my MES has run flawlessly.
Hey, Murray. Glad they replaced it for you while under warranty. Mine is passed warranty and their website (since they never answer phones) indicates every piece I can buy EXCEPT the power unit. So I got one form Appliance Warehouse (looks identical but it acts the same. Anyway, I will go with some of the posters that told me to just buy a remote temperature gauge and work the controls according to what the gauge tells me since I have been told the temperature readout on the smoker isn't reliable.
 
Glad to hear you're doing a lot better, Matt.
I use Thermoworks Smoke remote digital therm. They're fairly expensive, but very good. Mine, straight out of the box, was within 1* accurate for both probes, I boil test it regularly and it has not varied from that since I bought it (couple of years now). I used to use a Maverick, but programming it was a real PIA so I gave it away and replaced it with the Smoke. I really like it--reliable and easy to program.
Gary
Gary - thanks for the well wishes as well as the unit recco. I will check it out. I don't have any other good options so I appreciate your experience and recco.

Matt
 
tallbm - thank you thank you thank you for your last reply some tiem ago. Right after you sent it, I got very sick (not COVID thankfully) and just now am back on my feet and hoping to resume meat smoking soon! You gave such expert advice and directions. I learned alot and appreciate your time and detail.

My MES races to the max temp read out every time, but am not sure it is telling me any truth. And the light never goes out until the timer turns it off. Anyway, do you have a good recommendation for a trusty remote digital thermometer with probes? I need to order one it sounds like! Thank you again!

Matt

Hi Matt, I'm glad you are back on your feet, being sick sucks!

Your Smoker Issue
With the behavior you explain I have a strong hunch that your safety rollout limit switch is failing on you. This switch is in place to sense if your smoker is getting too hot and if so it cuts off power to the heating element but NOT the controller. So your controller things it is supplying heat but this wired in switch is overheating and cutting off power to the heating element that the controller THINKS it is supplying.

Why would the switch be sensing overheating???
Simple, the switch itself is overheating due to being cheap crap or the electrical connector fastening the electrical wire to the switch is failing or loose (probably corroding away and getting loose). When there is a loose connection with electricity it causes resistance which causes heat. The connectors that Masterbuilt uses are crap and corrode away super fast which causes looseness which causes heat. I bet this is the case and that your switch is starting to overheat and it thinks your smoker temp is overheating but its literally the switch itself getting hot so it cuts off temp.

Long story short: If you have a panel on the back of your smoker half way up on height (middle or right side of back smoker wall) then open that panel and I bet you money you see a problem with the wire connectors, the switch, or both. Here are the parts you can use to replace the connectors and that switch:

Rollout Safety Limit Switch (ORDER THIS EXACT ONE!!! There are less expensive ones that aren't the correct type even though they look the same, so ordering these u are safe)

High Temp females electrical spade connectors for 14-16AWG wire:
FYI these connectors will work if your current crappy MES connectors are failing a the heating element so you now have parts to fix both sets of common failing connectors :)

I honestly think your rollout safety limit switch is failing you so feel free to ask questions and investigate and get back to us on it because it can be a simple fix that takes more time to get to than to actually fix the stupid thing hahah :)

Now on to thermometer stuff :D


My Thermometer Recommendation
I would recommend this one and right now it has 30% off (over $21) coupon not shown in the listing below so u can get for like $54. Yeah these things are not cheap but it's the right tool for the job.
Additionally the oven probe setting has both a high and a low alarm setting so that if you are asleep over night while a pork butt or brisket is going you have the low alarm to tell you if the smoker cut off sending temp below low setting for any reason (breaker flip, component failure, etc.).
Also these RF (Radio Frequency) thermometers work super well up to like 100yds (never tested that max range but 30 yds for sure). So no need to be within range of weaker Bluetooth signals, etc.
 
Hi Matt, I'm glad you are back on your feet, being sick sucks!

Your Smoker Issue
With the behavior you explain I have a strong hunch that your safety rollout limit switch is failing on you. This switch is in place to sense if your smoker is getting too hot and if so it cuts off power to the heating element but NOT the controller. So your controller things it is supplying heat but this wired in switch is overheating and cutting off power to the heating element that the controller THINKS it is supplying.

Why would the switch be sensing overheating???
Simple, the switch itself is overheating due to being cheap crap or the electrical connector fastening the electrical wire to the switch is failing or loose (probably corroding away and getting loose). When there is a loose connection with electricity it causes resistance which causes heat. The connectors that Masterbuilt uses are crap and corrode away super fast which causes looseness which causes heat. I bet this is the case and that your switch is starting to overheat and it thinks your smoker temp is overheating but its literally the switch itself getting hot so it cuts off temp.

Long story short: If you have a panel on the back of your smoker half way up on height (middle or right side of back smoker wall) then open that panel and I bet you money you see a problem with the wire connectors, the switch, or both. Here are the parts you can use to replace the connectors and that switch:

Rollout Safety Limit Switch (ORDER THIS EXACT ONE!!! There are less expensive ones that aren't the correct type even though they look the same, so ordering these u are safe)

High Temp females electrical spade connectors for 14-16AWG wire:
FYI these connectors will work if your current crappy MES connectors are failing a the heating element so you now have parts to fix both sets of common failing connectors :)

I honestly think your rollout safety limit switch is failing you so feel free to ask questions and investigate and get back to us on it because it can be a simple fix that takes more time to get to than to actually fix the stupid thing hahah :)

Now on to thermometer stuff :D


My Thermometer Recommendation
I would recommend this one and right now it has 30% off (over $21) coupon not shown in the listing below so u can get for like $54. Yeah these things are not cheap but it's the right tool for the job.
Additionally the oven probe setting has both a high and a low alarm setting so that if you are asleep over night while a pork butt or brisket is going you have the low alarm to tell you if the smoker cut off sending temp below low setting for any reason (breaker flip, component failure, etc.).
Also these RF (Radio Frequency) thermometers work super well up to like 100yds (never tested that max range but 30 yds for sure). So no need to be within range of weaker Bluetooth signals, etc.
Interesting, is there a way to test the Rollout Safety Limit Switch with a Volt Ohm meter without removing the back? I have a second MES that I bought used that is starting to give me grief.
 
Interesting, is there a way to test the Rollout Safety Limit Switch with a Volt Ohm meter without removing the back? I have a second MES that I bought used that is starting to give me grief.

If you don't have a panel on the back side then there is no way. You have to pull off the back OR cut your own panel.

Once you can get to the switch you will likely see clear signs of the connectors corroding (just pull them off and they fall apart) or the switch itself melting or having burn marks.
If you cannot easily tell then you can clip the wire on both sides of the switch and wire nut those ends together and turn on your smoker. Doing this just cuts out the faulty/failing switch so it can't erroneously switch the power off to the heating element. You can roll like this until you replace the parts or keep it this way and just live without an overheat safety switch which is a "risk" you will need to weigh. Having a wireless thermometer with "oven" high alarm set will let you know if your smoker is overheating so not as risky as it may sound as long as you are always around. Just be safe and make good decisions haha :)

Cutting a Panel
If you don't have a panel, guess what. I highly recommend you make one cause this switch is made with cheap parts and I've replaced at least 4 of them for various reasons (some me, some just crappy components).

If you have a rotary cutting tool (like a Dremel) or an oscillating cutting tool you can carefully just cut a panel into the back sheet metal of your MES. Then cover with a bigger piece of scrap sheet metal and some sheet metal screws.

Just be sure to measure and guesstimate where the switch is by examining where it is on the inside of the smoker on the back wall. It looks like a round circle maybe the size of a quarter. Sometimes its more in the center of the back wall.

1616968873162.png


I highly suggest u just measure from the round up to about center point of the switch to get how high up it is.
Then measure from left OUTER wall to what you believe is the center of the switch.
Go to the outside back of the smoker and make a mark based on those 2 measurements.
Then using that mark as a center point draw a 6 inch square where that mark is dead center in your square.
IMPORTANT: Cut a panel BUT barely go through the sheet metal so you don't cut into any wires. Once you start the cut and get over enough you may want to use a flat head screw driver to "lift" the sheet metal away from the insulation in the smoker. The sheet metal may want to stick to the spray foam insulation some but should be totally doable.

Finally get a sheet of general sheet metal (non rustable so aluminum works) and cover your cut out with it and sheet metal screws right into the insulation :)

I hope all this info helps :)
 
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