Masterbuilt mes 340g not working at all, with new parts

[SmokeinNJ]

I am going to open the bottom panels, check all the wires and try it again today. I will keep both back panels open and monitor the voltage as well.

 

[SmokeinNJ]

Hi all,
So I opened the bottom panels for thr controller and power cord Loosened and tightened up the ground connections. Found one of the controller quick connects had a small yellow wire loose. Fixed that, and put everything back.
Started her up again with element cover open, and still have snap sensor bypassed.
Hurray! Set temp at 240, and have been through 4 heat-ups, reaches temp, voltage stops to element, and restarts once below 235.
Still a big 20-40 degree discrepancy on the temps from the sensor probes, so will boil test those next.
Now just need to source the proper snap sensors.

Thanks for everyone's feedback!
With a kid in college I may still look at a PID, but at least I'm not looking at a new smoker at the moment.

 

[chopsaw]

Still a big 20-40 degree discrepancy on the temps from the sensor probes,

That's the way most of them are . It should settle in as it runs . Glad you got it fixed , but think about the re wire and the PID . That why you'll be ready if the time comes .

 

[dr k]

Hi all,
So I opened the bottom panels for thr controller and power cord Loosened and tightened up the ground connections. Found one of the controller quick connects had a small yellow wire loose. Fixed that, and put everything back.
Started her up again with element cover open, and still have snap sensor bypassed.
Hurray! Set temp at 240, and have been through 4 heat-ups, reaches temp, voltage stops to element, and restarts once below 235.
Still a big 20-40 degree discrepancy on the temps from the sensor probes, so will boil test those next.
Now just need to source the proper snap sensors.

Thanks for everyone's feedback!
With a kid in college I may still look at a PID, but at least I'm not looking at a new smoker at the moment.

For my daughter's Mes I made a heating element power cord like you did to wire directly to the element to see if that solved the electricity leaking to ground and terminated the ground to one of the heating element access screws. That didn't solve it so I checked the outlet recepticle in their garage that was an add on before they bought the house and the large neutral slit is hot so that garage wiring needs to be fixed. I had that smokers accesses removed and had to cut one out to get to the temp limit switch and ultimately removed the back cover and swapped out the heating element. After 5 hours of trouble shooting I finally checked the receptacle to find it was wired incorrectly. I was so pissed. They were using it on the otherside of the house without problems till they moved it to the garage.

 

[tallbm]

Hi all,
So I opened the bottom panels for thr controller and power cord Loosened and tightened up the ground connections. Found one of the controller quick connects had a small yellow wire loose. Fixed that, and put everything back.
Started her up again with element cover open, and still have snap sensor bypassed.
Hurray! Set temp at 240, and have been through 4 heat-ups, reaches temp, voltage stops to element, and restarts once below 235.
Still a big 20-40 degree discrepancy on the temps from the sensor probes, so will boil test those next.
Now just need to source the proper snap sensors.

Thanks for everyone's feedback!
With a kid in college I may still look at a PID, but at least I'm not looking at a new smoker at the moment.

Hi there and welcome!

Sorry I'm so late to the party. I was going to basically suggest everything you did hahahaha.

BTW since you have already gotten very familiar with the MES and all the wiring areas I would highly recommend you swap out the crappy connectors they use at the heating element and the safety rollout limit switch with hi temp stainless steel ones. The crappy connectors Masterbuilt uses are 1 of the 2 major failure points for the MES.

You can use these:

Also these should be a replacement for the safety rollout limit switch and I highly recommend you get this EXACT order. There are 2 different styles switch but they look almost the same but one of them will NOT work. Also those things are delicate so getting a 5 pack or more is highly recommended. If you cause ANY wiggle or movement where the tabs connect to the back of the switch then it will overheat and melt on you after a short time. So it is wise to put the connectors on the replacement switch GENTLY and then connect the wires and finally fasten it back in place. I know this because I have burned up 3 of them before I learned what was happening lol.

Finally, the temp swings are normal with an MES. So are the differences between your good thermometer and what the MES is reading.
The MES is notorious for both of those things happening as well as not being able to reach 275F top temp.

If you get tired of the swings and not being able to hit 275F then a simple rewire and a PID controller will make a better smoker than what you have now 10X over :)

Also using the A-Maze-N Pellet Smoker (AMNPS) tray along with wood pellets is what most MES users move to for 12 hours of perfect smoke all unattended :D

I hope all this info helps :)

 

[SmokeinNJ]

Hi Tallbm
Thanks for the specifics! Ordering them today.
I did order the ones similar to those, but the mount was too loose.
Thanks for the feedback!

Neil.

 

[tallbm]

Hi Tallbm
Thanks for the specifics! Ordering them today.
I did order the ones similar to those, but the mount was too loose.
Thanks for the feedback!

Neil.

There are 2 mount types to the limit switches one that is not fixed, and then one that is fixed making it all seem like one solid piece. The ones I linked are the fixed solid one piece and are the ones you need. Both styles look very similar so it is easy to pick the wrong ones.

If you want to get real slick you can always order you one with a higher threshold and if/when you get a PID you can run your MES a little higher for short fast cooks :)

 

[denny]

There are 2 mount types to the limit switches one that is not fixed, and then one that is fixed making it all seem like one solid piece. The ones I linked are the fixed solid one piece and are the ones you need. Both styles look very similar so it is easy to pick the wrong ones.

If you want to get real slick you can always order you one with a higher threshold and if/when you get a PID you can run your MES a little higher for short fast cooks :)

 

[tallbm]

Hi Denny, I think your message was lost :D

 

[SmokeinNJ]

Everything's good. Smoked two pork butts and some ribs. Still have the temp sensor bypassed, but the sensors and the stainless hightemp connections came in so this weekend have some work to do.

 

[tallbm]

Everything's good. Smoked two pork butts and some ribs. Still have the temp sensor bypassed, but the sensors and the stainless hightemp connections came in so this weekend have some work to do.

Nice! You will be set from here on out. Nothing short of that smoker burning down should keep you from keeping it running from now on :)

 

[denny]

Hi there and welcome!

Sorry I'm so late to the party. I was going to basically suggest everything you did hahahaha.

BTW since you have already gotten very familiar with the MES and all the wiring areas I would highly recommend you swap out the crappy connectors they use at the heating element and the safety rollout limit switch with hi temp stainless steel ones. The crappy connectors Masterbuilt uses are 1 of the 2 major failure points for the MES.

You can use these:

Also these should be a replacement for the safety rollout limit switch and I highly recommend you get this EXACT order. There are 2 different styles switch but they look almost the same but one of them will NOT work. Also those things are delicate so getting a 5 pack or more is highly recommended. If you cause ANY wiggle or movement where the tabs connect to the back of the switch then it will overheat and melt on you after a short time. So it is wise to put the connectors on the replacement switch GENTLY and then connect the wires and finally fasten it back in place. I know this because I have burned up 3 of them before I learned what was happening lol.

Finally, the temp swings are normal with an MES. So are the differences between your good thermometer and what the MES is reading.
The MES is notorious for both of those things happening as well as not being able to reach 275F top temp.

If you get tired of the swings and not being able to hit 275F then a simple rewire and a PID controller will make a better smoker than what you have now 10X over :)

Also using the A-Maze-N Pellet Smoker (AMNPS) tray along with wood pellets is what most MES users move to for 12 hours of perfect smoke all unattended :D

I hope all this info helps :)

Hi there and welcome!

Sorry I'm so late to the party. I was going to basically suggest everything you did hahahaha.

BTW since you have already gotten very familiar with the MES and all the wiring areas I would highly recommend you swap out the crappy connectors they use at the heating element and the safety rollout limit switch with hi temp stainless steel ones. The crappy connectors Masterbuilt uses are 1 of the 2 major failure points for the MES.

You can use these:

Also these should be a replacement for the safety rollout limit switch and I highly recommend you get this EXACT order. There are 2 different styles switch but they look almost the same but one of them will NOT work. Also those things are delicate so getting a 5 pack or more is highly recommended. If you cause ANY wiggle or movement where the tabs connect to the back of the switch then it will overheat and melt on you after a short time. So it is wise to put the connectors on the replacement switch GENTLY and then connect the wires and finally fasten it back in place. I know this because I have burned up 3 of them before I learned what was happening lol.

Finally, the temp swings are normal with an MES. So are the differences between your good thermometer and what the MES is reading.
The MES is notorious for both of those things happening as well as not being able to reach 275F top temp.

If you get tired of the swings and not being able to hit 275F then a simple rewire and a PID controller will make a better smoker than what you have now 10X over :)

Also using the A-Maze-N Pellet Smoker (AMNPS) tray along with wood pellets is what most MES users move to for 12 hours of perfect smoke all unattended :D

I hope all this info helps :)

 

[denny]

tallbm, I have had quite a time making a reply to you, and in fact I'm still not sure if I'm doing it correctly, or if it will go thru! I am in the process of modifying my MES 30, including PID control. I am interested in replacing the roll-out switch as you suggested. Until just now, the replacement item you specified did not appear on my screen--only a blank space. Today 2 entries appear. If I search these on Amazon, nothing is found, regardless of what permutations I use. Searching for roll-out switch shows 100+ entries but of course I have no way of matching to your recommendation.

I'm sure the fault is at my end, somewhere in the settings, configuration, etc. If you can find the time, could you send the manufacturer name, PN, or some thing else that might help me identify the correct one?

I have devoured your fantastic articles and have gotten the PID to function perfectly (but with a lamp for a heater) in breadboard form. Thanks so much--I could not have gotten this far without you. This sick PC has really slowed me down so I'm going to put it in the shop and hope for the best.

PS--I tried to post the above repeatedly and was told "Error-try again with fewer than 5 media." I will now remove the 2 links and include only the numbers that were included, ie, B00GN61HES AND B0071NC5NO. Pulling my hair!!

 

[denny]

As a follow-up to my earlier post today, I found another post of yours on these roll-out switches and female connectors, but I couldn't ID the switch positively from the small image. Is it uxCell KSD307, PN g18113000ux0021? They come in a range of temps and I'm not sure which one that PN represents--I just wanted to be sure of the mfg, style, etc, at this point.

 

[tallbm]

As a follow-up to my earlier post today, I found another post of yours on these roll-out switches and female connectors, but I couldn't ID the switch positively from the small image. Is it uxCell KSD307, PN g18113000ux0021? They come in a range of temps and I'm not sure which one that PN represents--I just wanted to be sure of the mfg, style, etc, at this point.

Hi Denny, sorry to hear about all the computer issues, I'm glad my info is helping you out :)
If you go to Amazon and copy/enter this number and and search on it you will find the exact item for the rollout limit switches: B00GN61HES

Also if you go to Amazon and copy and paste the following number you will get the correct hi temp steel connectors to replace the cramp MES ones with:
B0071NC5NO

Let me know if t his works for you. You will soon have your smoker up and running like no other! :)

 

[denny]

Hi Denny, sorry to hear about all the computer issues, I'm glad my info is helping you out :)
If you go to Amazon and copy/enter this number and and search on it you will find the exact item for the rollout limit switches: B00GN61HES
View attachment 402315

Also if you go to Amazon and copy and paste the following number you will get the correct hi temp steel connectors to replace the cramp MES ones with:
B0071NC5NO
View attachment 402316

Let me know if t his works for you. You will soon have your smoker up and running like no other! :)

tallbm--I found 'em, no problem. Got 'em ordered today. Have no idea why they didn't come up in the first place--may be more of the same Firefox problem of mine! Man, I sure did rag you for this and I apologize. I just wasn't getting any where and thank you so much again for "looking after me"!

 

[tallbm]

tallbm--I found 'em, no problem. Got 'em ordered today. Have no idea why they didn't come up in the first place--may be more of the same Firefox problem of mine! Man, I sure did rag you for this and I apologize. I just wasn't getting any where and thank you so much again for "looking after me"!

Lol I didnt feel nagged and didnt see any "raging" posted so don't worry one bit about it :)

I've noticed sometimes that the Amazon product posts don't work properly and if anyone tries to post a straight link to the Amazon product the forum here tries to be smart and convert it to the Amazon product "widget" thingy. That can make things difficult. But hey it's the price we have to pay so that the Forum gets all that ad and link click money :)

Those items should get you well on your way and you should be able to keep your MES running for a loooong time with those components.
Word to the wise, be VERY easy with the rollout limit switches. If you cause ANY movement with the tab at the back of the switch then it will likely overheat and meltdown on you to then fail. Just be very gentle and apply the connectors to those tabs first BEFORE fastening the switch to the MES.
The order I do it in is:

1. Put connectors on switch tabs facing the CORRECT way
2. Crimp wires to the connectors
3. Fasten the switch on the MES

Do things in this order and you will have an easier time and less of a chance of causing movement or wiggle to those tabs.

I hope this info helps :)

 

[denny]

Another example to be heeded! Your advice is always so very welcome. I know it comes from much experience, and the wisdom contained cannot be obtained in any other way which is why it is so valuable. Just keep it up! Many of us are counting on you!

 

[tallbm]

Another example to be heeded! Your advice is always so very welcome. I know it comes from much experience, and the wisdom contained cannot be obtained in any other way which is why it is so valuable. Just keep it up! Many of us are counting on you!

Hahahah thanks! I hope to not gain any more wisdom on destroying safety rollout limit switches if I can

 

[chunkvic]

I have the cabelas edition MES40. stopped heating. changed out the element today but still doesn't heat. anyone know what the incoming voltage at the female end terminal should be going to the element? Thanks in advance.


unplugged from the element I get roughly 24.

one plugged in, I get roughly 24, as soon as I make contact to the element with the unplugged one, it goes to 0.

I checked ohms just now, while it is sitting there mounted, and I get 11.6 (old one is 11.4)