Masterbuilt electric smoker no heat up

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Sgt Ed

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Nov 2, 2022
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Masterbuilt # 20070215 will not heat up .No parts available and can not find wire diagram. The heat element megs out to 12.5 ohms. Voltage to it about 2 volts. Unit has been only used 1 time , Any suggestions other than parking it in front of Lowes front door where i\I bought it
 

Brokenhandle

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Have you tried searching this site for threads about it? There's been quite a few. Otherwise tallbm tallbm is really knowledgeable about them, when he see this he'll respond.

Ryan
 
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mr_whipple

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Jul 3, 2021
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I have the same model #, and while mine didn't break I intentionally ripped out the control board and bypassed it completely with a PID controller. I just double checked and did in fact toss the control board after repeated attempts to give it away so that's not an option I could offer you. I didn't cut the safety switch out of the circuit for well... safety reasons and that may be all that is wrong with yours. Either your control board is bad, or the safety switch has opened causing your element to receive no voltage. All of it is accessible by removing a few screws. The safety switch is on the left rear of your smoker a little less than half way up behind an access panel with six (6) screws. Put a meter across that and it should read continuity. If it's open (infinite resistance) that's your problem. If not, follow the voltage in and out of your control board. I don't have time to post any pics but I'm sure tallbm tallbm will eventually see this, also HERE IS the thread with the pics of my modification. Questions? ask away. It's an easy mod or fix.
 
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Sgt Ed

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Original poster
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Nov 2, 2022
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I have the same model #, and while mine didn't break I intentionally ripped out the control board and bypassed it completely with a PID controller. I just double checked and did in fact toss the control board after repeated attempts to give it away so that's not an option I could offer you. I didn't cut the safety switch out of the circuit for well... safety reasons and that may be all that is wrong with yours. Either your control board is bad, or the safety switch has opened causing your element to receive no voltage. All of it is accessible by removing a few screws. The safety switch is on the left rear of your smoker a little less than half way up behind an access panel with six (6) screws. Put a meter across that and it should read continuity. If it's open (infinite resistance) that's your problem. If not, follow the voltage in and out of your control board. I don't have time to post any pics but I'm sure tallbm tallbm will eventually see this, also HERE IS the thread with the pics of my modification. Questions? ask away. It's an easy mod or fix. Thanks so much willl give this a try>
 

tallbm

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Masterbuilt # 20070215 will not heat up .No parts available and can not find wire diagram. The heat element megs out to 12.5 ohms. Voltage to it about 2 volts. Unit has been only used 1 time , Any suggestions other than parking it in front of Lowes front door where i\I bought it
Hi there and welcome!

This can likely be fixed as its 1 of 3 things.
1. Bad connectors at the heating element, safety rollout limit switch, or lower circuit board

2. Bad safety rollout limit switch (often connectors corrode and burn out and melt down the switch)

3. Bad controller (top) or lower circuit board (yeah technically 4th area lol)


The first thing to do is to check the connectors at the heating element, lower circuit board (panel bottom side of smoker and is in a plastic black box), and the safety rollout limit switch.
Now if you have a panel half way up the back of the smoker then you are in luck (not lower back that is heating element).
If no panel, well I would suggest you locate the safety limit switch from the inside of the smoker. It is a round quarter sized looking thing.
(Inside round switch where one of these 2 arrows are pointing)
1625537743922-png.png

(What it looks like from the back with panel or homemade panel open)
455442-c87bdc0a6a8b0a74bc836715d04200e6-jpg.jpg
(Clearly a switch and wire corrosion/meltdown issue here)
20200814_112956-jpg.jpg

Measure where it is then cut a panel on the back of the smoker to get to it. You could also pull the back off to get to it but this is an unpleasant option.


When you pull/disconnect the wires from the heating element, circuit board, and safety rollout limit switch you will know if they are all corroded away and/or bad. Replace them with hi temp ones like these:

Also while u are doing this and the wires are disconnected from the safety rollout limit switch use a Multimeter's continuity setting and touch each of the tabs to see if the Multimeter beeps. The switch is Normally Closed so should indicate continuity (no breaks in circuit) from one tab to the other. You can get one cheap at a local store or here's one that will work from Amazon, has good reviews fro like $10. You can get one for like $7 at a local Harbor Freight store if you have one:

If the multimeter proves your safety rollout limit switch is good then that is nice. If it proves it is bad well you can wire around it but WARNING/DISCLAIMER you are doing this of your own volition and you are removing a safety mechanism.
Doing so to ensure your smoker is heating up and working is find and you can replace the switch with this EXACT ONE:
You may think you can get one cheaper but there are 2 designs and they both look the same. One of the designs will not work. Plus these are ceramic to avoid melting down so fast AND they are the correct temp. Deviate at your own risk :)

So solution 1 and 2: replace bad/corroded electrical connectors and replace a faulty rollout limit switch (or wire around until you can/want to replace it).

Finally, if the circuit board is burnt up, bad, or the top controller is bad your only option to use that smoker is to do a simple rewire (cut ends off 4 circuit board wires and wire nut together to make 2 whole wires). Then use something like an Auber PID which runs like $160, HOWEVER turns your smoker into an absolute beast!
(this one covers your smoker no matter what)
A rewired MES with an Auber PID is like turning a golf cart into a Ferrari and you can keep it running through anything short of a lightning strike lol.
For $160 you will not find any smoker out there that could come close to what you would have with your MES rewired and using a PID.


I hope this info helps. Ask all the questions you have :)
 

Sgt Ed

Newbie
Original poster
Thread starter
Nov 2, 2022
4
0
Hi there and welcome!

This can likely be fixed as its 1 of 3 things.
1. Bad connectors at the heating element, safety rollout limit switch, or lower circuit board

2. Bad safety rollout limit switch (often connectors corrode and burn out and melt down the switch)

3. Bad controller (top) or lower circuit board (yeah technically 4th area lol)


The first thing to do is to check the connectors at the heating element, lower circuit board (panel bottom side of smoker and is in a plastic black box), and the safety rollout limit switch.
Now if you have a panel half way up the back of the smoker then you are in luck (not lower back that is heating element).
If no panel, well I would suggest you locate the safety limit switch from the inside of the smoker. It is a round quarter sized looking thing.
(Inside round switch where one of these 2 arrows are pointing)
View attachment 647667
(What it looks like from the back with panel or homemade panel open)
View attachment 647668
(Clearly a switch and wire corrosion/meltdown issue here)
View attachment 647669
Measure where it is then cut a panel on the back of the smoker to get to it. You could also pull the back off to get to it but this is an unpleasant option.


When you pull/disconnect the wires from the heating element, circuit board, and safety rollout limit switch you will know if they are all corroded away and/or bad. Replace them with hi temp ones like these:

Also while u are doing this and the wires are disconnected from the safety rollout limit switch use a Multimeter's continuity setting and touch each of the tabs to see if the Multimeter beeps. The switch is Normally Closed so should indicate continuity (no breaks in circuit) from one tab to the other. You can get one cheap at a local store or here's one that will work from Amazon, has good reviews fro like $10. You can get one for like $7 at a local Harbor Freight store if you have one:

If the multimeter proves your safety rollout limit switch is good then that is nice. If it proves it is bad well you can wire around it but WARNING/DISCLAIMER you are doing this of your own volition and you are removing a safety mechanism.
Doing so to ensure your smoker is heating up and working is find and you can replace the switch with this EXACT ONE:
You may think you can get one cheaper but there are 2 designs and they both look the same. One of the designs will not work. Plus these are ceramic to avoid melting down so fast AND they are the correct temp. Deviate at your own risk :)

So solution 1 and 2: replace bad/corroded electrical connectors and replace a faulty rollout limit switch (or wire around until you can/want to replace it).

Finally, if the circuit board is burnt up, bad, or the top controller is bad your only option to use that smoker is to do a simple rewire (cut ends off 4 circuit board wires and wire nut together to make 2 whole wires). Then use something like an Auber PID which runs like $160, HOWEVER turns your smoker into an absolute beast!
(this one covers your smoker no matter what)
A rewired MES with an Auber PID is like turning a golf cart into a Ferrari and you can keep it running through anything short of a lightning strike lol.
For $160 you will not find any smoker out there that could come close to what you would have with your MES rewired and using a PID.


I hope this info helps. Ask all the questions you have :)
Thank you so much for the info. I have checked all that is accessible to me the heat element and connectors and the temp switch switch. I'm not getting power to the temp switch and 2 volts to the heat element. I have made up my mind to go with the PID controller you mentioned. Is there a wire diagram that goes with it or maybe get someone more familiar to help. I do autos ok but some of this stuf gets me lost. Again ,thanks
 

Sgt Ed

Newbie
Original poster
Thread starter
Nov 2, 2022
4
0
Hi there and welcome!

This can likely be fixed as its 1 of 3 things.
1. Bad connectors at the heating element, safety rollout limit switch, or lower circuit board

2. Bad safety rollout limit switch (often connectors corrode and burn out and melt down the switch)

3. Bad controller (top) or lower circuit board (yeah technically 4th area lol)


The first thing to do is to check the connectors at the heating element, lower circuit board (panel bottom side of smoker and is in a plastic black box), and the safety rollout limit switch.
Now if you have a panel half way up the back of the smoker then you are in luck (not lower back that is heating element).
If no panel, well I would suggest you locate the safety limit switch from the inside of the smoker. It is a round quarter sized looking thing.
(Inside round switch where one of these 2 arrows are pointing)
View attachment 647667
(What it looks like from the back with panel or homemade panel open)
View attachment 647668
(Clearly a switch and wire corrosion/meltdown issue here)
View attachment 647669
Measure where it is then cut a panel on the back of the smoker to get to it. You could also pull the back off to get to it but this is an unpleasant option.


When you pull/disconnect the wires from the heating element, circuit board, and safety rollout limit switch you will know if they are all corroded away and/or bad. Replace them with hi temp ones like these:

Also while u are doing this and the wires are disconnected from the safety rollout limit switch use a Multimeter's continuity setting and touch each of the tabs to see if the Multimeter beeps. The switch is Normally Closed so should indicate continuity (no breaks in circuit) from one tab to the other. You can get one cheap at a local store or here's one that will work from Amazon, has good reviews fro like $10. You can get one for like $7 at a local Harbor Freight store if you have one:

If the multimeter proves your safety rollout limit switch is good then that is nice. If it proves it is bad well you can wire around it but WARNING/DISCLAIMER you are doing this of your own volition and you are removing a safety mechanism.
Doing so to ensure your smoker is heating up and working is find and you can replace the switch with this EXACT ONE:
You may think you can get one cheaper but there are 2 designs and they both look the same. One of the designs will not work. Plus these are ceramic to avoid melting down so fast AND they are the correct temp. Deviate at your own risk :)

So solution 1 and 2: replace bad/corroded electrical connectors and replace a faulty rollout limit switch (or wire around until you can/want to replace it).

Finally, if the circuit board is burnt up, bad, or the top controller is bad your only option to use that smoker is to do a simple rewire (cut ends off 4 circuit board wires and wire nut together to make 2 whole wires). Then use something like an Auber PID which runs like $160, HOWEVER turns your smoker into an absolute beast!
(this one covers your smoker no matter what)
A rewired MES with an Auber PID is like turning a golf cart into a Ferrari and you can keep it running through anything short of a lightning strike lol.
For $160 you will not find any smoker out there that could come close to what you would have with your MES rewired and using a PID.


I hope this info helps. Ask all the questions you have :) 1 more question about the PID. Is there anything else I would need. I am assuming I will use the same burner and temp switch. Is there a power supply in the smoker or does everything go straight 120.
 

normanaj

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Feb 2, 2014
2,503
1,820
Rhode Island
Is there a wire diagram that goes with it or maybe get someone more familiar to help. I do autos ok but some of this stuf gets me lost. Again ,thanks

Here you go:
 
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tallbm

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Dec 30, 2016
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Texas
Thank you so much for the info. I have checked all that is accessible to me the heat element and connectors and the temp switch switch. I'm not getting power to the temp switch and 2 volts to the heat element. I have made up my mind to go with the PID controller you mentioned. Is there a wire diagram that goes with it or maybe get someone more familiar to help. I do autos ok but some of this stuf gets me lost. Again ,thanks
normanaj normanaj has you covered with the guide to rewire.
It's pretty simple. Find the lower circuit board, cut ends off 4 wires, wire nut/splice to make 2 whole wires.

This will make your MES cord feed power to the heating element because it now bypasses all MES electronics. The MES is now just a dumb straight power feed to the element :)


1 more question about the PID. Is there anything else I would need. I am assuming I will use the same burner and temp switch. Is there a power supply in the smoker or does everything go straight 120.

You should not need anything except simple wiring tools and components.
Something to cut wires and strip a little bot of a wire (simple wire cutters can cut, a pocket knife could strip insulation).

If you are going to be using any 14-16 AWG crimp connects you will need them and a wire crimping tool. Wire nuts to splice would be even easier if you already have them.

Some electrical tape will insulate any wiring you need covered but many have heat shrink insulation which works too.

Other than some simple tools for wire cutting, stripping, connectors, and wire nuts you don't need anything else to do the rewire and PID job.


The rewire works like this.

1. You cut the ends off 4 wires that go to the circuit board which is located in a panel on the under side of the smoker.
- Black smooth and White smooth wires (16 AWG size) come from the MES power cord
- Braided wires can be same color or different colors but are always 16 AWG size. Both of these wires basically go to the heating element. TECHNICALLY, one braided wire comes directly from the heating element. The other comes from the safety rollout limit switch. The safety switch then has another that goes to the other connector on the heating element. So both braided wires basically go to the heating element.

2. When you cut the ends off the wires you then connect Black Smooth to one Braided wire. Then connect White smooth to the other Braided wire. A wire nut is as simple as it gets but connect with any connectors that will work well.

3. Now that the rewire is done the MES power plug will feed power to the heating element. It is now dumb with NO internal control. This is where the Auber PID controller comes in.

4. You plug the MES cord into the Auber PID.
You plug the Auber PID into the home wall outlet.
You take the temp probe from the Auber PID and drop it down the MES top vent and clip the temp probe to the bottom center of the lowest smoker rack so the Auber can read the smokers temp.

5. Now you turn on the Auber PID and enter your set temp.
The Auber PID will take power from the home/wall and cut power on/off to the MES plug to hit and hold the set temp you entered into the Auber PID. So power goes like this.
Home -> Auber PID -> MES Plug -> MES Heating Element

Again the Auber PID will read the temp via the temp probe u dropped in and will cut power on/off to hit and hold your set temp.

It's actually a simple and elegant approach AND the Auber PID will hold within 1-3 degrees of your set temp. For most of us it holds dead on or within 1 degree.

Your smoker transformation will be like turning a Golf Cart into a Ferrari. It is amazing!

Let me know if this info helps and ask all questions you have :)

2. Wirenut
 

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