• Some of the links on this forum allow SMF, at no cost to you, to earn a small commission when you click through and make a purchase. Let me know if you have any questions about this.

Masterbuilt 30" Smoker no longer heating.

TheEyeTGuy

Newbie
15
4
Joined Jul 13, 2020
Hey guys,

Over the weekend when I was prepping to smoke a brisket, I discovered that my Masterbuilt 30" (Model 20071117) no longer heats up.

I removed the only access panel on the rear of the smoker to find the wires for the heating element. Wires and terminals look to be in excellent condition.

The element is an 800W element. Following Ohm's Law I found the element should be giving a reading of ~18 ohms. After checking with my multimeter I can confirm it is giving a reading of 18.2 Ohms.

At this point I'm not sure what else to check. Any ideas?

Thanks.
 

TheEyeTGuy

Newbie
15
4
Joined Jul 13, 2020
Where are these at on this smoker? The smoker is definitely getting power, as I can use the control panel just fine, but setting the temp on it does not seem to work as the heating element never kicks on.
 

Brokenhandle

Master of the Pit
★ Lifetime Premier ★
1,473
909
Joined Nov 9, 2019

Give this a look, and see if it helps

Ryan
 

Brokenhandle

Master of the Pit
★ Lifetime Premier ★
1,473
909
Joined Nov 9, 2019
Down a ways it shows a plate pop riveted on the bottom of smoker, there is a safety roll out switch there. Not sure if same on yours but a place to start

Ryan
 

TheEyeTGuy

Newbie
15
4
Joined Jul 13, 2020
Ryan, thanks.

Placed it on a table and found that panel is actually screwed on on mine. Opened it up and came across this sight (note red was barely hanging on, it had corroded away. Black was still firmly attached. Unsure where to go from here besides clean the terminals, attach hi-temp spades and pray that works?

IMG_20200713_163013.jpg IMG_20200713_162944.jpg
 

tallbm

Master of the Pit
OTBS Member
★ Lifetime Premier ★
4,431
1,548
Joined Dec 30, 2016
Ryan, thanks.

Placed it on a table and found that panel is actually screwed on on mine. Opened it up and came across this sight (note red was barely hanging on, it had corroded away. Black was still firmly attached. Unsure where to go from here besides clean the terminals, attach hi-temp spades and pray that works?

View attachment 453936 View attachment 453937
Hi there and welcome!

Good find.
#1 failure point on the MES is the horrible spade connectors corroding away like yours did.
Get some hi temp stainless steel spades on the wire and hook back up and hope.
Chances are that other spade connectors on your system are corroding but let's hope this fixes it and have extra connects just in case.

If you do not have a 2nd panel on the BACK of the MES then you do not have access to the safety rollout limit switch which often has it's connectors corrode. To get to that safety switch when u have no panel means u have to drill out the rivets (if u have rivets) on the back and pull the back up/off and get to the switch that way. If this happens I suggest u cut a panel into the back so u can always get back to it without having to pull the back off.

You replace the back with self tapping sheet metal screws and u are good to go.

Let us know how this adventure goes and if fixing those connectors doesn't work we can help you out and if you need to rewire and buy an Auber PID controller just know that your MES would then run 10X better than it ever did brand new :)
 

Brokenhandle

Master of the Pit
★ Lifetime Premier ★
1,473
909
Joined Nov 9, 2019
Follow what tallbm tallbm says...anything I have learned has come from him. He helped me with getting my pid and getting it set up. Turned my mes 30 into a way better smoker!

Ryan
 

TheEyeTGuy

Newbie
15
4
Joined Jul 13, 2020
Thanks guys. Attached new connectors and still no luck :(

I'll pull the back off tomorrow. Drill battery is charging so I can drill out the rivets. Is there a way to test the rollout switch?

Thanks!
 

tallbm

Master of the Pit
OTBS Member
★ Lifetime Premier ★
4,431
1,548
Joined Dec 30, 2016
Thanks guys. Attached new connectors and still no luck :(

I'll pull the back off tomorrow. Drill battery is charging so I can drill out the rivets. Is there a way to test the rollout switch?

Thanks!
Well kind of.
The switch is a normally closed switch so when u check the connectors and if they need replacing then the smoker should heat up IF the element connectors are good to go.

There is a high probability that the rollout switch connectors are toast if the controller was getting power but not the element. These connectors often fail where the switch itself is usually ok UNLESS the connectors failed causing the plastic back of the switch to melt.
If the switch is damaged you can cut the wires that connect to the switch and wire nut them together and see if the element heats up. This will get you buy if the switch is busted (they are delicate)

Should you confirm that all connectors are replaced and/or good to go then I'm guessing your circuit board is half busted... it looked in bad shape and may be allowing power to go to the controller but not to the heating element.

If the circuit board is busted then you can get a new one OR you graduate to the big boys table and rewire and buy an Auber PID and turn your MES into a beast! :)

Let us know what u find :)
 

TheEyeTGuy

Newbie
15
4
Joined Jul 13, 2020
Well kind of.
The switch is a normally closed switch so when u check the connectors and if they need replacing then the smoker should heat up IF the element connectors are good to go.

There is a high probability that the rollout switch connectors are toast if the controller was getting power but not the element. These connectors often fail where the switch itself is usually ok UNLESS the connectors failed causing the plastic back of the switch to melt.
If the switch is damaged you can cut the wires that connect to the switch and wire nut them together and see if the element heats up. This will get you buy if the switch is busted (they are delicate)

Should you confirm that all connectors are replaced and/or good to go then I'm guessing your circuit board is half busted... it looked in bad shape and may be allowing power to go to the controller but not to the heating element.

If the circuit board is busted then you can get a new one OR you graduate to the big boys table and rewire and buy an Auber PID and turn your MES into a beast! :)

Let us know what u find :)
The element's connectors are solid, one of the first things I checked. They had a rubber insulation and heat shrink to protect them. No corrosion there. The rollout switch also looks ok, connectors and wires are still shiny and nice. Tested with my multimeter and it looks like it tested ok.

Additional pics:
IMG_20200714_121959.jpg IMG_20200714_121930.jpg IMG_20200714_121554.jpg IMG_20200714_121550.jpg IMG_20200714_121512.jpg
 

tallbm

Master of the Pit
OTBS Member
★ Lifetime Premier ★
4,431
1,548
Joined Dec 30, 2016
The element's connectors are solid, one of the first things I checked. They had a rubber insulation and heat shrink to protect them. No corrosion there. The rollout switch also looks ok, connectors and wires are still shiny and nice. Tested with my multimeter and it looks like it tested ok.

Additional pics:
View attachment 453987 View attachment 453988 View attachment 453989 View attachment 453990 View attachment 453991

Good work with checking and posting the pics.
It looks like the cluprit may have been the corroded connectors at the circuit board.
Once u get it all wired and hooked back up let us know if it all works again.
If it doesnt then maybe all that corrosion on the circuit board itself has damaged things too much.
If that's the case then u either get replacment board or my personal favorite idea, u rewire and go with an Auber PID and have an even better smoker :)

Let us know what u find :)
 

tanglefoot

Smoke Blower
SMF Premier Member
97
52
Joined Dec 27, 2012
Hey there, EyeT. Greetings and welcome from SE MN. I was having similar issues with my MES30 a couple months ago. Fiddle-farted with that dang thing for a couple of weeks. Tallbm and chopsaw helped me out a lot. I finally rewired it and got a PID. Best move!! Now I have a smoker I can count on for consistent results. My $0.02. (Don't forget to order an AMNPS when you order your PID!!)
 

TheEyeTGuy

Newbie
15
4
Joined Jul 13, 2020
Good work with checking and posting the pics.
It looks like the cluprit may have been the corroded connectors at the circuit board.
Once u get it all wired and hooked back up let us know if it all works again.
If it doesnt then maybe all that corrosion on the circuit board itself has damaged things too much.
If that's the case then u either get replacment board or my personal favorite idea, u rewire and go with an Auber PID and have an even better smoker :)

Let us know what u find :)
Already tried it and no luck. The board is toast. I'm talking the wife into a rewire and PID ;)
 

TheEyeTGuy

Newbie
15
4
Joined Jul 13, 2020
Hey there, EyeT. Greetings and welcome from SE MN. I was having similar issues with my MES30 a couple months ago. Fiddle-farted with that dang thing for a couple of weeks. Tallbm and chopsaw helped me out a lot. I finally rewired it and got a PID. Best move!! Now I have a smoker I can count on for consistent results. My $0.02. (Don't forget to order an AMNPS when you order your PID!!)
Lol, I did the mailbox mod with the AMPNS after my first smoke ;)
 

bill1

Smoking Fanatic
342
93
Joined Apr 25, 2015
EyeTGuy,
You've got some real moisture ingress issues there. I'd make sure you've got that straightened up (or have a adry place to store the unit) before I'd spend too much money on new controllers.
 

tallbm

Master of the Pit
OTBS Member
★ Lifetime Premier ★
4,431
1,548
Joined Dec 30, 2016
bill1 bill1 , I have plans to take care of this.

tallbm tallbm I have received the coveted WAF. Any PID controllers that have wifi/app control? Might as well upgrade ;)
There's some guys that have the Auber WIFI model and they seem to love it:

I run the HeaterMeter (HM) PID which is a high degree of technical understanding and it seems my wifi has died and I haven't fooled with it to troubleshoot the wifi. I have a 2nd usb wifi adapter fob I can swap out to see if that's the failure point but having smoked a ton of things and having my wireless thermometers that I also use, getting the wiki capabilities back haven't been a priority.

If want to tinker with a ton of moving parts and building a full controller (PID, SSR, Project Box, etc.) the HM is a project where the Auber unit seems like its basically little to no hassle and works.

I recommend the Auber Wifi unit over the HM unit simply because its easier to get started and easier to maintain.
 

TheEyeTGuy

Newbie
15
4
Joined Jul 13, 2020
There's some guys that have the Auber WIFI model and they seem to love it:

I run the HeaterMeter (HM) PID which is a high degree of technical understanding and it seems my wifi has died and I haven't fooled with it to troubleshoot the wifi. I have a 2nd usb wifi adapter fob I can swap out to see if that's the failure point but having smoked a ton of things and having my wireless thermometers that I also use, getting the wiki capabilities back haven't been a priority.

If want to tinker with a ton of moving parts and building a full controller (PID, SSR, Project Box, etc.) the HM is a project where the Auber unit seems like its basically little to no hassle and works.

I recommend the Auber Wifi unit over the HM unit simply because its easier to get started and easier to maintain.
Thanks! I'm ok with tech and don't mind a project, and I have RaspberryPi 3 that is sitting unused currently. Plus the price on the HM is decent as well. I don't need the blower do i? Would I need the thermocouple parts? Is there any way to use the existing temp sensor mounted in the smoker that the original/stock controller used?

Also, what size screws do I need to replace the back panel after drilling out the rivets. The ones I just bought are a bit too large.
 
Last edited:

radioguy

Smoking Fanatic
763
143
Joined Jan 12, 2013
I also run a HM on the electric I rebuilt. You really need to be tech savvy to build one and successfully run it. You'll only be saving a few bucks over the Auber. I put my HM in a 3D printed case, on the smoker I permanently mounted and wired SSR, safety relay, thermocouple and power cord. I put plug in connectors on the HM so I can use it on other smokers. I haven't done this yet but the option is there. HM uses k type thermocouple for smoker temp and RTD types for food probes. I built mine a few years back I'm sure there are newer versions.
I'd recommend the Auber unit also. They have a number of plug and play units.

Also was this unit exposed to the weather? Looks awful rusty.

RG
 
Last edited:

Hot Threads

Top Bottom
  AdBlock Detected

We noticed that you're using an ad-blocker, which could block some critical website features. For the best possible site experience please take a moment to disable your AdBlocker.