Hotpoint rebuild begins

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brianillinois

Fire Starter
Original poster
Jan 27, 2013
35
10
I started a thread a couple weeks ago, regarding whether this fridge would be OK for a repurposing. Finally got it home today. I took off some of the hardware and removed two of the plastic strips. The insulation looks like it would work, but I think I'll go ahead and replace. I'm thinking I'll have to take the inner box out anyway, to install hardware for the cooking racks.

I sure wish the existing racks could be used. I wonder if they'd be OK if I got them chromed? I'm thinking of taking the door handle and emblem to a chrome shop anyway.



 
i had the same problem with my '36 westinghouse fridge i converted.... i contemplated getting the existing racks chromed, but i found new racks that ended up being able to fit into my fridge for around $11 per rack at Walmart. getting them chromed may be fine, but i have a problem trusting that old material... if the chrome would ever crack, you could start making yourself and/or others sick...... 
 
I sure wish the existing racks could be used. I wonder if they'd be OK if I got them chromed? I'm thinking of taking the door handle and emblem to a chrome shop anyway.
Take the racks to the plating shop an d ask them what the plating is on the racks.  You might be fine or if not they might be able to strip them for you.

You also might be able to strip them yourself.
 
looking great so far, why trash the insulation inside and replace with new?? that looks like good stuff what are you replacing the plastic trim with??
 
I'm gonna replace the insulation because I need to take the inner box out anyway. I can't weld, so I plan to use nuts and bolts to fill the existing holes in the inner box. I'll also probably have to use nuts and bolts to mount some type of hardware for the cooking racks.

Plus, my brother's got me all worried about the possibility of asbestos or other nasties in the insulation.

Replacing the plastic trim? I'm hoping to find some sheet metal that I can cut myself. Or I might give the specs to a metal shop. What did you use?
 
 
The insulation looks to me like normal fiberglass. I doubt they'd have any reason to put asbestos in a cooling unit, but there's something to be said about starting fresh.

I thought about trying to cut some sheet metal myself for the trim, and decided that it would be a major PITA. I have a brother-in-law who owns a sheet metal shop; he was able to cut to spec, and put in some crimps and bends for me with his brake. Which is something I definately could not do with a bench vice and some pliers.

Looking real good so far!
 
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I'm making progress. The inner tub is out, holes are being patched, shelf system is being installed.

Can anyone share what they did about vents and the exhaust? I'm trying to figure out a non-welding solution. Looking at maybe black pipe with flanges and fittings?
 
Im in planning stages, and also not readily able to weld. I do however, have a pop rivet gun, and Im thinking that would work for vents/flanges/or plugging any random holes. I guess the main concern would be that the rivets not be galvinized.
 
Im in planning stages, and also not readily able to weld. I do however, have a pop rivet gun, and Im thinking that would work for vents/flanges/or plugging any random holes. I guess the main concern would be that the rivets not be galvinized.
Pop Rivets are going to be aluminum or stainless steel.
 
I've got holes cut for three pipes near the bottom: two for vents and one for the power cord. Each of those is 1 1/4-inch. One of them is pictured below.

I also cut a hole a 1/2-inch hole into the side, about a foot from the top. That will be for feeding temperature probes/wires into the cabinet.

Tomorrow I'll put in another hole, in the very bottom of the cabinet. It'll be for a drain pipe, connected below with a pipe flange. It'll serve as a drain for any escaped grease. Also will be handy for if I have to clean it out.

Figuring out how to make these pipes and fitting airtight, to avoid smoking the insulation, was a bit of a challenge for a non-welder, but I've got it figured out. And the actual cutting of the holes was no cake-walk: the metal of the exterior and the interior is some tough stuff for a hole saw.

I've got a fabricator/welder building me a 4-inch exhaust pipe with a flange plate. I'll use the flange plate and bolts to make an airtight connection to the inner cabinet.

The fabricator also is cutting the replacement sheet metal for the interior of the door.

I'm thinking of possibly adding a couple neat features. One would be a side shelf. I'd either have it fabricated and powder-coated, or make it myself, using some store-bought brackets and cedar strips. The other possibility is a couple handles, featuring powder-coated springs, mounted on one side, for moving the thing around -- but mostly for looks.

 
Very cool. I had to same idea for the shelves. I intend to use the original ones out of the inside of my door that are made of aluminum. I think I'll just rivet them to the outside. I figure I can sit my temperature gauges and whatever else I think I need to stick in there. I've enjoyed seeing your project come along. I hope mine turns out half as good as yours.

-Travis
 
Starting to apply some black. I thought about a black Hammerite finish, but I'm liking this flat black. Sort of gives it the look of the steel cookers. And I think the powder-coated shelf and spring handles, as well as the chrome latch and emblem, will really pop against the black.


 
I think our builds are too similar. You're one step ahead of me, I appear to be copying you. I have cans of flat black grill paint... If I am copying you though that means I will have a bad ace smoker.
 
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