Hobart Buffalo Chopper model 84142

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maynard rowley

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Original poster
Mar 28, 2016
27
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Recently purchase a Hobart Buffalo Chopper model 84142. I wasn't local so I had to have it shipped. Seller told me it was wired for single phase power. Long story short it's 208V 60 3 phase. I've reached out to the seller but haven't heard back. Anyone know if these can be rewired somehow? I assume if it can it's going to be more trouble and expense than it's worth.

Best (and only) idea I have, other than trying to sell it, is to buy a phase converter, but I don't know what size I'd need. Motor tag is missing so I don't even know the HP.

Can anyone help?

What started as an exciting/fun purchase has turned into a major headache.
 
No promises, but a good friend of mine is an electrician that mostly deals with industrial stuff. I will put the question to him when I see him.
 
Simplest solution is to buy a phase converter box. It’s not to big sits on the ground. Plug single phase into one side and plug the 3 phase on the outlet and you are good to go.
 
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Simplest solution is to buy a phase converter box. It’s not to big sits on the ground. Plug single phase into one side and plug the 3 phase on the outlet and you are good to go.
"Best (and only) idea I have, other than trying to sell it, is to buy a phase converter, but I don't know what size I'd need. Motor tag is missing so I don't even know the HP."

Why I said I'd ask my friend who mostly deals with industrial stuff.
 
"Best (and only) idea I have, other than trying to sell it, is to buy a phase converter, but I don't know what size I'd need. Motor tag is missing so I don't even know the HP."

Why I said I'd ask my friend who mostly deals with industrial stuff.
Well gee, nobody can know what they don’t know.
A simple phone call to Hobart will solve the problem, here are a couple numbers for them

1-877-333-1863
or
1-877-333-7447
 
If you scroll down and read the description, maybe not a good idea.
iMarkup_20250203_092120.jpg
 
Yeah, I saw that.

I think they make a "smaller" version. MY-PS-0.5. The label says it's good for 0.25-0.5 HP. Looks like it might only be rated for 0.75 amps though, and I think this thing draws 1.23 amps....
 
No promises, but a good friend of mine is an electrician that mostly deals with industrial stuff. I will put the question to him when I see him.
Thank you. I would appreciate that.

As far as I can tell the motor is 1/3HP, 1725RPM and rated for 1.23A. The only tag on the unit reads: 208V 60 3.
 
Thanks. Yeah, I've been sending emails all day trying to figure this issue out and it seems like VFD might be the way to go. I won't use the speed control (no need and I don't think that old motor would handle it) but it sounds like they can be set up to run at constant/full speed.

For anyone that is interested, this is the one I am thinking of getting:

I picked the one I did because it was 120 vac in. But if you have 220 vac. Then that's fine. I've been a industrial electrician for close to 35 years. Also. There is a consideration on how the motor is currently controlled. Something that needs to be considered when installing the VFD. Or polyphase inverter. It could be a simple motor switch with built in overloads. Or a combination starter.
 
I picked the one I did because it was 120 vac in. But if you have 220 vac. Then that's fine. I've been a industrial electrician for close to 35 years. Also. There is a consideration on how the motor is currently controlled. Something that needs to be considered when installing the VFD. Or polyphase inverter. It could be a simple motor switch with built in overloads. Or a combination starter.
120 would be fine as well. But I have a 220 receptacle not too far from where I intended to use the Hobart so I can always use that too.

I dunno if this helps but: the Hobart appears to have been hardwired to the building (wires are just cut off). So what I have (from the cut end) is: A few feet of wire, a 3-phase switch that looks just like a regular household switch except a little larger and marked "3-ph", and then another foot or so of wire that goes into the Hobart connection box. The Hobart itself also has the built in on-off switch. I don't really understand 3-ph setups and don't really know why that secondary switch is there. Is that most likely a motor switch with overloads? If I sent a pic would that help?

I really appreciate your input BTW. I don't know anything about 3-phase or industrial stuff. I woudn't have bought this thing except that the seller told me it was single phase.
 
120 would be fine as well. But I have a 220 receptacle not too far from where I intended to use the Hobart so I can always use that too.

I dunno if this helps but: the Hobart appears to have been hardwired to the building (wires are just cut off). So what I have (from the cut end) is: A few feet of wire, a 3-phase switch that looks just like a regular household switch except a little larger and marked "3-ph", and then another foot or so of wire that goes into the Hobart connection box. The Hobart itself also has the built in on-off switch. I don't really understand 3-ph setups and don't really know why that secondary switch is there. Is that most likely a motor switch with overloads? If I sent a pic would that help?

I really appreciate your input BTW. I don't know anything about 3-phase or industrial stuff. I woudn't have bought this thing except that the seller told me it was single phase.
Can you post a few pics? I'm betting the switch before the Hobart was a lock out switch for cleaning/service. And in your situation you really wouldn't need.
The Hobart itself should have overload prtection in it. And the VFD will be set up for the FLA of the motor.
 
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Can you post a few pics? I'm betting the switch before the Hobart was a lock out switch for cleaning/service. And in your situation you really wouldn't need.
The Hobart itself should have overload prtection in it. And the VFD will be set up for the FLA of the motor.



20250203_205648.jpg


Misremembered the length of the wires coming into/out of the switch:

20250203_204535.jpg


Switch with plastic box/cover removed:
20250203_204625.jpg


Wire connections:
20250203_204605.jpg

20250203_204601.jpg


Bad picture but only shows where it enters the unit anyway:
20250203_204739.jpg


Electrical connections cover removed:
20250203_205234.jpg


Lower cover removed. Hard to see anything in there (except that this thing is filthy):
20250203_205244.jpg


Best shots I could get of the internal switchgear:
20250203_205254.jpg


20250203_205301.jpg



I don't know if this is doable but in my head what I'd like to do is eliminate that switch (unless it is actually needed for some reason) and just put a plug of some kind on that wire. Then wire the VFD so it has the input end wired with a 220V, 15amp plug (the one that looks like a regular 110v plug but with the prongs sideway) and the output end wired with a receptacle that matches the plug on the Hobart. Is that doable? Dumb?
 
I'm also thinking you might have been right to suggest a 110V input. This thing is HEAVY so it isn't likely to be moved around much but on the off-chance I do want to move it (or try to sell it) 110V input is going to be more versatile. I'm thinking of using one of these instead:


They're both more money than the 220V one though. But maybe worth it? Thoughts?
 
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