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high temp paint.....

Discussion in 'Reverse Flow' started by bob1961, Oct 18, 2013.

  1. bob1961

    bob1961 Smoking Fanatic

    i'm looking into paint for my RF build, but not sure what brand is best....how hot does the firebox get and what if any high heat paint will hold up, thx....
  2. Hello bob 1969.  Here is my opinion for what it is worth.  Others may have different advice.  This is only my opinion.  I am about to do a build.  I have given this a lot of thought.  The paint job is the protection for your hard work.  What I plan to do is sand bast and have a pro paint job done with engine paint.  It ain't gonna be cheap but how often do you want to get the grinder/wire brush out and then repaint?  If you chose to DIY, Krylon is about as good as any I guess.  I just think a really good high temp primer and high temp may be worth the spend. Just food for thought.  Keep Smokin!

  3. radioguy

    radioguy Smoking Fanatic


    I am currently in the "build" process and are planning doing a sandblast, Ospho coat and use Rustoleum high heat paint (in the can, not spray).

    I can't speak of experience, but from what I have read here the brush on rustoleum works best.  I have a power painter and plan to spray.  After spending so much time on the build, I do want a good finish on it. 

    check this thread out


    Best wishes,  RG
  4. Hi I used cylinder head paint goes on really we can be bought in most car parts shops

  5. gary s

    gary s SMF Hall of Fame Pitmaster OTBS Member

    We have used both brands with equally good results I think the last we bought was at Lowe's  you can also get a high temp paint at Sherwin Williams.

  6. bob1961

    bob1961 Smoking Fanatic

    yeah I have looked at many, even found some that have been tested to 1200 degrees....looking for battleship grey for my smoker....I plan on using my FB as a grill with cast iron griddle plates to cook on, no more flare up's over fire....plus I can use the top of FB for boiling water in big stock pot for corn, heating sauces and such....not planning on towing my rig all bout just want a better smoker then my char broil W/SFB....
  7. harvey4804

    harvey4804 Newbie

    I used Rustoleum high heat paint (quart) and I applied it with an HVLP after meticulously cleaning and scrubbing every nook and cranny.  After about 3 years the cooking chamber Still looks beautiful. The firebox however, I have had to sand and repaint once and it need to be done again.  It could be because the FB is 12ga. sheet and not .250" plate but I'm not quite sure.  
  8. venture

    venture Smoking Guru OTBS Member

    I see the rust on top of my firebox as character.

    After a lot of research, I think the engine/manifold paints will give you the best result.

    Been a few years, but a little research will give you the heat ratings on different paints.

    Last time I did it?  There were higher temp rated paints than Rustoleum?

    Good luck and good smoking.
  9. Tricks for long lasting BBQ/Smoker paint job.
    • Newly fabricated steel should be sandblasted to "white" steel.
    • paint should be applied to pre-heated steel ( I like to take it to 160*, then let it cool to about 100* before spraying) this will work out any humidity that the steel has absorbed.
    • Apply paint in very thin coats, allowing to dry well between coats. ( pre-heating the steel and spraying at 100* will allow you to re-coat in about 15 minutes) I usually will apply about four coats.
    • Allow paint to dry at least 24 hours before heating the cooker up again. When you do heat the cooker up, take the heat up very slowly and try to hold it under 200* for a couple of hours.
    • Do not use any thinner. If paint is too thick to shoot then warm it up.
    Rustoleum has always given me the best results, and I have tried at least a half dozen or more of the other brands. Do not use a primer. I prefer the semi gloss, but the flat will give you higher heat resistance.

    Keep in mind, these paints are enamel, they do not use an activator and rely on the solvents in the paint to evaporate and "air dry" the paint. They never "cure" so applying the paint to heavy or wet is the biggest mistake people make. The solvents get trapped due to the top layer of paint will dry faster than the previous coat and when the cooker is heated up, these solvents will boil up and cause blisters in the paint. Also, by not getting the moisture out of the steel by pre-heating can also cause blisters. To know if its ready for the next coat, put your hand on the paint , it should slide easy and not stick like it would on a piece of rubber. Scratch a spot with your finger nail, it should feel hard and not gummy. You might get a little 'paint dust" on your hand if you got the steel a little too hot, but its not a problem, just hit it with an air blower real quick to blow off the excess and shoot right over it.

    keep an extra spray can handy and if you do use a little too much lighter fluid and burn the top of your firebox, just clean it with a scotch brite pad and put a few coats on it as needed.

    Note; if you just absolutely can not find someone to sand blast the cooker before you paint, then wash the new steel with something like "purple power' and let it sit outside until it gets a light haze of surface rust. This will give the new steel the etch the paint needs to bond properly. The surface rust can easily be removed with wire brush and scotch brite pad, just make sure to pre-heat very well before painting.

    And do not use wood or charcoal in the firebox to preheat, you do not want the smoke residue on the steel, use a propane burner or even a heat gun or hair dryer stuck in the exhaust stack.

    Good luck and have fun!
  10. gary s

    gary s SMF Hall of Fame Pitmaster OTBS Member

    There you go step by step   good advice. I bought a can of high heat Rustoleum  at Lowes yesterday. I always keep one around for touch up especially on the firebox.

  11. That is perhaps the best bbq painting advice I have seen so far. This goes straight into the bookmarks. Thanks, Rib.

    Cheers /Wes
  12. Oh...Ive painted a few cookers in my day. I just wish I was as good at spraying metallic on my Nova.
  13. bob1961

    bob1961 Smoking Fanatic

    thank you rib, yeah I was going to get it blasted after finished and before paint before....
  14. How much does the sandblasting cost? I'm building a 250 gallon propane tank reverse flow and was thinking of renting a sandblaster...but was worried the sand will be too expensive.
  15. gary s

    gary s SMF Hall of Fame Pitmaster OTBS Member

    Depends  in your area, call around and get some prices then you can decide. Sometimes if check with a sandblaster if he has several things lined up to blast, Sometimes they will make you a little better deal. Sometimes !

  16. Hi Bob, have you considered tempering the inside with food grade linseed oil? There are a few real good posts here in SMF on how to temper a skillet. Just do the same for the inside. To temper the oil it needs to get 400 degrees min for at least an hour. Any paint should be food grade. I did find a high temp rustoleum but it's not good grade. Google it and you will have a ton of information. LMC-Smoker.
  17. Usually around $85.00 an hour, but a case of beer or bottle of Jack usually will get it done as well. Most places that do a lot of blasting don't advertise, find your local Clemco dealer then ask them how they call on that would be close to you and might be willing to help you out.

    I usually blast inside and out, paint every damn thing except the reverse flow plate ( use linseed oil on that, or just vege oil ) then burn, wash, and burn real good, real hot, before cooking.
  18. bigwheel

    bigwheel Smoking Fanatic

    After much trials an tribulations on trying to get paint to stick to an uninsulated fire box..I gave up and just try to keep it swabbed down good with cooking oil. Application after each cook and rainstorm etc. Looks just like black paint shorty. For places other than right there..Dupont Stove Paint works about as good as anything. The bucket I got think says 1400 degree. Works just fine on the parts other than the firebox. I got a hot tip from a pal dont never try to sand blast a used pit. It will get sand in your Shlitz forever. Best of fortunes.
  19. It if won't " stick" it's not clean enough, etched properly, or paint is applied to thick. If it's " burning off" then double plate the top.

    And yes I agree, unless all grease can be remove, sandblasting a used pit on the inside can be a mess, heating it up before pressure washing to help get the grease out helps, but it still takes a lot of flushing to get all the sand out. I see so many builders get in a hurry to try out the pit before it's blasted and painted properly, and cause themselves a lot of work down the road.
  20. bob1961

    bob1961 Smoking Fanatic

    I want to use the top of my FB as a grill instead of loading my RF plate with lump/wood to grill stuff....I found a nice sized grill top at gander mountain if I remember right is bout 32" x 26"....only thing I won't have in this type of grill is the char you get from using a grate....