First smoker build reverse flow any suggestions????

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Depending on how you plan on sealing the door those will be in the way. These are the hinges I used on my current build. If I remember correctly they were about 10 bucks for 2 hinges. I got them at my local steel supplier. You could find them on the internet also. They are just weld on barrel hinges with a grease fitting.

Kyle

 
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Nice going   Check how the door fits on the right as you have not left much meat between the door and end of cooker. 

If you are running multiple racks weld them in now before you weld the end cap on.   it is much easier to tweak the 2" ring you have and hold it in position with the racks, then weld the end cap on   than welding it all now and trying to get the door to match.  (don't forget to weld the anti flips on BEFORE welding the racks in the cooker. 

 
I haven't planed on welding anything together I'm going to install r/f plates ,build grates I only plan on tacking the plate on for c/c and f/b
 
only reason I have is want a door mount with the reading form the middle of the racks.. Maybe I'm dreaming

I do feel like the door needs to be a little bigger it's 17.5 inches x 48 but Im going to wait till I build racks before I decide on that...

Any suggestion on counter weight
 
Are you wanting a fixed weight or mechanical?

I am not sure I would want the therm wire in my way every time I opened the door but I imagine you have an idea. I use digital therms and door therms. Once you learn the cooker you will be able to look at the door therm and know what your grates are doing within +- 10°.
 
I am old school and use the Maverick ET-73 it is a dual probe remote unit. One for your meat the other for the grate.

Maverick now has better units but I have never had any problems with mine other than probe replacement periodically.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Maverick...4246&wl11=online&wl12=198075149&wl13=&veh=sem

I run two of them at comps along with these.


I am currently testing the Inkbird Bluetooth 6 probe for the company. I am hoping they make a few changes to make it more user friendly.
 
I have an ET-73 as well. Never had any issues with it. I also have an ET-732 which isn't much different just has a farther range. They are simple to operate that's what I like about them. To many bells and whistles aren't needed.

Kyle
 
Come down a little over a fourth from the top on the door and draw a line left to right this will be about where the weight mounts. Tie the door open to just where it is breaking over. At this point you are ready to make arms I use thick cardboard or plywood as it allows me to easily shape the arm then lay it out on the steel. What you want is the weight to touch the cooker when open to act as a stop the weight is an assist so you do not want it so heavy that you have to pull the door hard to close it.

Also you can set the amount of weight and position as to when you open the door it only opens say 1/2 to 3/4. I do not care for this as it puts a lot of smoke in your face when working in the cooker. For the weight you can use pipe or square tubing 3" is a good size as you can add sand to it and cap the ends.

I hope this helps. :)
 
Once the door is positioned where you want it choose where the weight touches the back of the cooker and your angle from door to cooker body  is predetermined. Start with an empty weight tacked to the arms then add sand to the weight and just tack the end caps on for easy removal.
 
I dnt kno if I want the weight to touch the cooker I was thinking of putting stops on hinges to stop it maybe 1/4" away from touching
 
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