ERR 2 with my MES 40

[Brokenhandle]

My smoker is a Masterbuilt MES440/S

I am afraid I can make neither heads nor tails of the technical description/language explaining what a "PID" is, how it works, how it is used, or how I would figure out which one to get or how to implement it.

I am looking for an explanation in layperson's terms. Otherwise the info is not useful in my case.

Helen, did you see the pictures I posted? Total of 3 pics. First off, stop thinking about doing any wiring or rewiring and just look at my pics. That way you won't be overwhelmed. The 2 pics I first posted is a pid controller made by auber. First one is a pic of the front and second is a pic of the back of the unit. This unit is what would control your smoker temps... your controls on your smoker will do nothing after the rewire.

Now I know you don't understand anything being said about the rewiring, and that's perfectly ok. My question to you is... do you have a relative that lives close that could maybe do it for you if we explain what and how to do it? Or if not a relative, maybe a neighbor, or a friend? You could repay them with some awesome smoked food once we help get your smoker going again!

Ryan

 

[Helen Ivy]

I did look at the pics. It looks like a pretty long, involved fix. I was hopeful before I looked at the instructions but not after. I was hoping it was something I could kind of plug in and use. I do not have friends that know about rewiring. I am more handy than most people I know. Anyone I know who does wiring would want to be paid for doing a complicated job like this.

I would have to hire someone to do this repair.

Helen, did you see the pictures I posted? Total of 3 pics. First off, stop thinking about doing any wiring or rewiring and just look at my pics. That way you won't be overwhelmed. The 2 pics I first posted is a pid controller made by auber. First one is a pic of the front and second is a pic of the back of the unit. This unit is what would control your smoker temps... your controls on your smoker will do nothing after the rewire.

Now I know you don't understand anything being said about the rewiring, and that's perfectly ok. My question to you is... do you have a relative that lives close that could maybe do it for you if we explain what and how to do it? Or if not a relative, maybe a neighbor, or a friend? You could repay them with some awesome smoked food once we help get your smoker going again!

Ryan

 

[postmeister]

...
I would have to hire someone to do this repair.

I would do it for free if you happen to be somewhere near Redlands.

 

[Helen Ivy]

Thanks! I appreciate the offer! I am just south of Hollywood.

 

[IronDogJCH]

Fantastic. I did a Google search for the auber pid and found quite a few devices. Google Search results page for auber pid

They obviously get this issue presented to them as they have a section specifically called Smoker Controllers Smoker Controllers. They are a little proud of their equipment, and likely so. However, one of the connections I missed in the previous instructions, and I'll need to go back and review, was the temp sensor connections to the external PID controller. Several from this above page offer single or dual "meat probe" connections which would be routed into the box thru one of the existing meat probe pass-thru grommets. I assume this would be the preferred method based upon the need for some type of feedback for the controller to use for maintaining "control" as it were.

Thanks so much for the discussions. I like the mailbox setups, and actually happen to have one of the A-Maze-N tube units my wife gave to me for Christmas a few years back. Was going to use it in the Weber grill sitting next to my MB unit as there isn't a flat surface inside the cabinet to set it on. No big deal there. And as to the 3" hole and ducting, I will need to do an Apollo 13 fix as the current trap door port on the side of my unit for the wood burning area is a rectangular opening, "round peg into a square hole" type of thingy.

My previous MB cabinet was the type mentioned previously with the removable tube that delivered the chips into/onto the burner tray. They offered an optional "Cold Smoke" chimney that sat on the ground next to the smoker that, after removing the tube tray. The smoke exited this device thru a hole on its side that conveniently plugged right into the port the original device used, and was held in place with a j-hooked bolt that hooked onto the internal edge of the smoke chips frame. This external device had a pyramidal chimney holding wood chips with an advertised 6- or 8-hour smoke session. The idea being to provide smoke without having to energize the cabinets heating elements. My issue with that was the chimney accumulated a significant amount of tarry creosote that prevented the chips from falling onto the element thereby preventing the smoke, even tho the thing was full of chips.

 

[cmayna]

Here’s my Auber and mailbox set up. So darn reliable. Yes, with a couple wireless temp sensors.

 

[tallbm]

Fantastic. I did a Google search for the auber pid and found quite a few devices. Google Search results page for auber pid

They obviously get this issue presented to them as they have a section specifically called Smoker Controllers Smoker Controllers. They are a little proud of their equipment, and likely so. However, one of the connections I missed in the previous instructions, and I'll need to go back and review, was the temp sensor connections to the external PID controller. Several from this above page offer single or dual "meat probe" connections which would be routed into the box thru one of the existing meat probe pass-thru grommets. I assume this would be the preferred method based upon the need for some type of feedback for the controller to use for maintaining "control" as it were.

Thanks so much for the discussions. I like the mailbox setups, and actually happen to have one of the A-Maze-N tube units my wife gave to me for Christmas a few years back. Was going to use it in the Weber grill sitting next to my MB unit as there isn't a flat surface inside the cabinet to set it on. No big deal there. And as to the 3" hole and ducting, I will need to do an Apollo 13 fix as the current trap door port on the side of my unit for the wood burning area is a rectangular opening, "round peg into a square hole" type of thingy.

My previous MB cabinet was the type mentioned previously with the removable tube that delivered the chips into/onto the burner tray. They offered an optional "Cold Smoke" chimney that sat on the ground next to the smoker that, after removing the tube tray. The smoke exited this device thru a hole on its side that conveniently plugged right into the port the original device used, and was held in place with a j-hooked bolt that hooked onto the internal edge of the smoke chips frame. This external device had a pyramidal chimney holding wood chips with an advertised 6- or 8-hour smoke session. The idea being to provide smoke without having to energize the cabinets heating elements. My issue with that was the chimney accumulated a significant amount of tarry creosote that prevented the chips from falling onto the element thereby preventing the smoke, even tho the thing was full of chips.

I can clear up the fog around the PID sensor.
Most of us just drop it down the vent of the smoker and clip it to the bottom rock or somewhere reliable.

I clip mine underneth the center of the bottom rack and I always use a bottom rack. This seems to be the most responsive area to measure temp.
I have other digital wireless thermometers that measure my rack level temps as well and they have meat probes. I don't even use a meat probe on my PID.

So with the dual probe PID you just use one of the probes as your smoker probe and the other as a meat probe even though they are both meat probe style.

On your new smoker a 3 inch hole saw would solve the problem with your chip trap door. You then just go into the mailbox mod approach from there. I'm sure it could all be rigged up quite easily and elegantly.

Yeah that smoke attachment that Masterbuilt came up with isn't bad but also isn't great. The mailbmox mod + AMNPS is far far far superior and no creosote to stop it from working once you get it all tweaked and working :)

 

[bill1]

Helen, in simplest terms a PID is like the thermostat in your house. When it's too cold, it turns the heat on. When it then gets too hot, it turns the heat off. Then when it gets too cold again, etc etc. A PID is just a little more elegant in how it does (and actually predicts) this on/off switching.

I'll let these guys who love their Aubers show you a picture of how you would hook it up to your element. And the other cord plugs into a standard wall plug. If you were up to changing out the heating element (which it doesn't appear you need) this is actually easier.

Now the "mailbox mods" they're all clamoring about may require using a 3" hole saw in a power tool. Just let us know if you've never done something like that because yes there is a possibility of cutting yourself pretty bad in such an operation and it might be beyond your comfort level--and that is understandable. But there are other ways of getting you flavorful smoke in that case.