Door won’t close

[TheBeardedPig]

So I have a problem. My door for my chamber won’t close all the way. I know I’ll get a little smoke leak but I think this isn’t right. Wondering how to fix it.

 

[SmokingUPnorth]

What smoker?

 

[TheBeardedPig]

What smoker?

Just need suggestions on how to fix what’s in the picture.

 

[bakerman]

Stove gasket is what I did. Sealed it up okay. Then bungie cords to keep it tighter. Eventually ditched it for a WSM22.5.

 

[Hockeydudde]

Some people install toggle clamps to keep the door tight. Comply done on thinner steel, so I'm not sure how effective it'll be in thicker steel door.

 

[TheBeardedPig]

Stove gasket is what I did. Sealed it up okay. Then bungie cords to keep it tighter. Eventually ditched it for a WSM22.5.

I was going to use something like that(lava rock) but my concern is the steel door is catching up somewhere and making it not close. I guess I’m wondering how can I find that impingement?

 

[TheBeardedPig]

Some people install toggle clamps to keep the door tight. Comply done on thinner steel, so I'm not sure how effective it'll be in thicker steel door.
View attachment 658556

This was my first thought but it’s an impingement from the door to the chamber. Wondering how I could find where exactly it’s hitting?

 

[Hockeydudde]

Stick a piece of paper in the gap and slid it around. It'll bind up where there fit is tight.

You can also wiggle the door slightly. You should see the door move where it's free and be stuck where it is hitting.

 

[TheBeardedPig]

Stick a piece of paper in the gap and slid it around. It'll bind up where there fit is tight.

You can also wiggle the door slightly. You should see the door move where it's free and be stuck where it is hitting.

That’s a great idea, thanks and much appreciated.

 

[crazymoon]

TBP, Rub some chalk (or something similar) around the barrel opening and the door where they contact one another. Any tight spot will wear off your chalk.

 

[Newglide]

What crazymoon said.
Also are you sure it's catching on something and not just the door springing out during the manufacturing process?
A lot of times when you cut a steel cylinder it will spring out. If that's the case you may be out of luck for an easy fix other than the clamps

 

[TheBeardedPig]

What crazymoon said.
Also are you sure it's catching on something and not just the door springing out during the manufacturing process?
A lot of times when you cut a steel cylinder it will spring out. If that's the case you may be out of luck for an easy fix other than the clamps

It might be. I’ve contacted the company I purchased it from and they’re in the process of getting the manufacturer involved in the issue. How would I know if it’s springing out?

 

[gmc2003]

If the door isn't sprung. Then some high temp red rtv would help solve your gap issues.

Chris

 

[thirdeye]

The purpose of the flat stock is to improve the seal of the door. But I doubt the fabricator let it get out of the shop with that much gap. Is there anything going on around the hinges? Could you have sprung the door? How about a photo showing the door and hinges.

 

[TheBeardedPig]

The purpose of the flat stock is to improve the seal of the door. But I doubt the fabricator let it get out of the shop with that much gap. Is there anything going on around the hinges? Could you have sprung the door? How about a photo showing the door and hinges.

I’ll get the pic once home. I haven’t done nothing with smoker yet. Haven’t even seasoned it yet. Literally got it and noticed this gap. The temp gauges haven’t made it on yet lol.

 

[boykjo]

IMO the door is warped from heat when it was cut and is now a poor fit. Even with no heat the door can spring open a little and cause a gap. To get rid of the gap you need to make a jig out of heavy steel with a lever that will slip over the bottom door lip then place a 4X4 horizontaly across the door and chamber and bend it to close the gap. I had a small gap and was able to close it.
IMO the manufacturer should fix it.

1st picture below is with a small gap and the other is after the fix.

 

[TheBeardedPig]

IMO the door is warped from heat when it was cut and is now a poor fit. Even with no heat the door can spring open a little and cause a gap. To get rid of the gap you need to make a jig out of heavy steel with a lever that will slip over the bottom door lip then place a 4X4 horizontaly across the door and chamber and bend it to close the gap. I had a small gap and was able to close it.
IMO the manufacturer should fix it.

1st picture below is with a small gap and the other is after the fix.

Appreciate it. I’m going to be furious if the manufacturer does not cover this. If they don’t would you know how much that would run me getting it fixed by a fabricator? I know prices vary by location and all that. Just a ball park range?

 

[boykjo]

If the door radius is the issue a jig can run you anywhere from $25 to $200 Can be made from scraps/leftovers or professionally done. Will be a one time use though

 

[TheBeardedPig]

If the door radius is the issue a jig can run you anywhere from $25 to $200 Can be made from scraps/leftovers or professionally done. Will be a one time use though

Thanks brother I’ll definitely look into it.

 

[bill1]

Boykjo sounds like a guy who's done some auto body repair. You might start with a 2x4 than a 4x4 but I second his approach. Problem is your steel looks extremely thick so just trying to "bring in" the bottom half won't be easy but you can try it with a few ratcheting straps going around the whole cooker with the board in various locations....take your time, you don't want to over-do it.

The thick gauge of that steel is the same reason I doubt the kind of clamps that have been shared would be strong enough to deform the lid once closed.

If the ratcheting straps and board can't deform the steel, but the lid easily removes, you may be able get a bit more of a bend radius while working on a flat surface with just some pipe-based Pony clamps--stronger than strap webbing.

Is it maybe stainless steel? Stainless warps bad when welded. It was probably perfect until the vendor welded that last lower strip on. But like all are saying, maybe make this the vendor's problem if it's still that new.

Although even if he "fixes" it, I won't be surprised if you'll need to fight this issue again down the road so the free advice could still come in handy some day.