Center Firebox Build
- Thread starter hephaestus
- Start date
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themule69
Epic Pitmaster
So Ribwizard, let me ask you a question on reverse flow. I see how you have a plate going from the firebox to cooking chamber below the baffle. Is there a hot spot there still after you do that? And if so what is the differential. I'm still going to go forward with this build and I feel that you and I have figured it out.(maybe not how feel) I really feel if I have a heat shield and a baffle plate that it will work. I do understand your concern about opening the firebox to feed it. I think one thing that will stop it from heating up is the damper. Second if that doesn't work I'll open the chamber door to let it out. And sorry about ignoring you on the bending down to feed it comment. My plan on that is I'm going to build a 40" by 80" frame to put it on. My main concern is to get this built then move on to that phase of the project.
ribwizzard
Master of the Pit
On just about any wood burning smoker , your going to have hot spots to engineer around. On a reverse flow, its mainly where the heat enters the cooking chamber and has to make a turn horizontally to flow under the reverse flow plate. Its fairly small and a baffle plate normally takes care of the problem, absorbing the heat instead of the reverse flow plate.
With a center firebox, you have multiple spots , due to the rising heat having to take multiple turns. Anywhere you force the rising heat to take a turn will create a hot spot against what ever plate the heat is aimed at. The trick is to absorb that heat , and transfer it to where it can be used .
It has been a while since I've posted because of summer school and me figuring out the hot spot issue. So what I've came up with is using the plate that holds the motor of the compressor. Its going to be used as a chamber that will be used to catch all the heat. There will be a 1" air gap in between the top inside of the plate.
I plan on scraping two fans to one. And putting the fan in the center hole of the plate to create a cooler draft that will warm up with the radiated heat. And it will meet up with the firebox air. I will also be capturing the radiated heat created by the fire box in between cooking chamber. I still planning on a baffle plate that will have a air gap in between it. The next thing to do is the door tomorrow then a burn out.
I plan on scraping two fans to one. And putting the fan in the center hole of the plate to create a cooler draft that will warm up with the radiated heat. And it will meet up with the firebox air. I will also be capturing the radiated heat created by the fire box in between cooking chamber. I still planning on a baffle plate that will have a air gap in between it. The next thing to do is the door tomorrow then a burn out.
radioguy
Master of the Pit
Consider insulation / double walled firebox. Bricks are heavy, brittle..... don't travel well.
Take a look at welding blankets.
Interesting build....I'm in.
RG
Take a look at welding blankets.
Interesting build....I'm in.
RG
jabbo
Meat Mopper
Hey guys, sorry I'm a little late to this one. I can see that I might be too late for this build but, for future reference, here is my two cents. This is in no way a new design or way out in left field. There are only 2 things that make it seem that way. First is the thought of it being a RF cooker. It is actually more like a box type upright with the fire in the bottom and it will cook just like one. Which brings up the second difference. It is not a box. The key to this build is to look at it a little different. The only thing you really need to concern yourself with is hot spots, as has been mentioned before. The simple fix for this is to turn the drip pan into a water pan. The is what makes most upright cook even, as well as RF cookers. Water evaporates at 212* F. It will absorb heat until the entire amount reaches 212*F. IT will then begin to evaporate and how long that takes has nothing to do with the fire bu how much water is in the pan. Water is a great insulator in this fashion. I know some people are opposed to it because they think it steams the meat but it doesn't. There is not enough moisture in the air to make steam as long as the meat is 4 inches or more above water. The bonus of using a water pan is it helps to fight the dreaded stall. The stall happens when the meat hits a certain temperature, usually around 150*, and the moisture inside it begins to work its way out and evaporate, cooling the outside of it just enough to prevent any more heat to penetrate. This happens until all of the sweating has occurred. The humidity in the "water cookers" helps fight this the same way it causes people to overheat in Florida. The humidity prevents the meat from sweating, thereby allowing more heat to penetrate resulting in a shorter stall effect. So the key to making this type of build a success, I believe, is the addition of a water pan. The rest should work like a RF build. It looks great so far. Keep it up and let us know how we it turns out and if we can help further.
Just to let everyone know I'm still working on it. I also do agree with you Jabbo that it isn't in left field. I only wrote that because people are so set in there ways. I going to run a trial run sometime this weekend. Here is some of the latest pictures.
jabbo
Meat Mopper
I was hoping to have a little trail run this weekend. I just couldn't handle it outside any longer. Hopefully sometime this week.
wickerdave
Newbie
- Jul 11, 2012
- 7
- 10
Ok its almost been 2 years since I've started this post. So I thought I'd give it a update. I finished it on April 2013 and have cooked on it maybe 10 times already. And it cooks just like I thought it would. The test run showed no hot spots at using the bread method. I think the fan prevents it from having a hot spot like people thought. It is putting out real good BBQ some of the best I've ever had. That is as I don't fall asleep and over cook it. I really prefer using charcoal then wood. I think i need to better understanding of cooking with wood. I've always used charcoal with wood chunks.But I just wanted to come on here and thank the people who helped and gave there 2 cents.
Looks good.
So what did you do for the plate or plates above the fire box? Maybe one day I will get to build one and I really love the idea of the center firebox. In theory it would be more efficient with the heat from the fire and use less fuel.
Great job!!!
Jeramy
So what did you do for the plate or plates above the fire box? Maybe one day I will get to build one and I really love the idea of the center firebox. In theory it would be more efficient with the heat from the fire and use less fuel.
Great job!!!
Jeramy
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